si1point6

PINK (Car Speed Signal Input): This wire should be connected so you can obtain the most accurate GPS location in Navigation. Im not sure what year your QX4 is, but you can look under the 12volt.com link below to find the color of the vss wire and it's location. Look for the year of your QX4 on that page, click on the hotlink for "Cruise Control". The VSS is aka "SPEED SENSE" on that forum. http://www.the12volt.com/installbay/vehiclewiring/1/yeard/Infiniti.html Lt. Green (Parking Brake): Yes, it's used in the bypass. Since you are doing the bypass, you do not have to connect this wir

cntrylvr79, I'm sorry about the oversized IMG sizes. I'll remember to make them smaller in my future posts

Long version: While you could run a sub with the D3 power, it's very limiting. First of all, you would would only be able to have power going to the front speakers since the power normally going to the rear speakers would now be going into the sub. Also, you're limited by what sub you can get. The D3 installation manual says you can only use a 2 ohm sub that can handle up to 70 watts, MAX. Thats a tiny sub. In fact, most component speakers have a higher MAX watt rating than that. And for fun, say you did find a sub that came close to that 70w RMS max rating, your D3 would probably shut

You shouldn't use the D3 chassis as a ground point for anything. You should use either the ground wire on your factory radio harness or a piece of steel behind the dash. And if you're doing the Bypass, the following wires will be connected to the ground point that you chose: -Parking brake wire from D3 (light green) -Ground wire from D3 (black) -Mute wire from D3 (after you relocate it's posistion on the harness connector)(yellow/black) And it's the black ground wire from the back of the D3 that provides the ground for the D3 system. To answer your question, the Bypass will provid

If you really need the room behind the D3, then take a photo of the back of the connectors before de-pinning the wires you won't be using for reference in case you need to re-pin them in the future. Personally, I would suggest taping off the unneeded wires. To each his own. Yes, the System Remote Wire from the D3 connects to the remote turn-on on your amp.

yw, and this entire BTB issue just made you a better troubleshooter. I'm glad it was just a blown fuze.

Sounds like you're really getting power fed to the fuze area. I agree that you should check the fuze. Does your voltmeter have an ability to check continuity? If so, you should put one voltmeter lead on one end of the fuze and the other voltmeter on the other. If the fuze isn't blown, there should be continuity. Also, check for continuity between the fuze case and the metal connector in the white BTB plug the yellow wire from the fuze connects to. There should be continuity there as well.

When you say "cap" the wires together, you mean using either a butt connector or soldering the wires together, right? If you have the 3 yellow wires (D3, BTB, car stereo yellow wire) all connected together with a solid connection (like soldering them together), the yellow wire running to to your BTB should be getting power if the D3 turns on. Same goes w/ the grounds: if the D3 and BTB grounds are connected together with a soild connection and the D3 can turn on, then the BTB in theory should be grounded properly. The only other thing I can think of if checking the white plug on the

Oh, that parking brake wire. Totally forgot about the green wire in the back of the D3. Last thing to check: you have the Black connector on the IP-BUS cable connected to the BTB and the Blue connector on the IP-BUS cable to the back of the D3? You can also try resetting the BTB. The manual says you're should reset it if: This unit must be reset under the following conditions: -Prior to using this unit for the first time after installation -When this unit and the head unit are reconnected -If the unit fails to operate properly -When strange or incorrect messa

Why would you have the parking brake tapped into the BTB power? Do you mean you had the BTB power tapped from the parking brake instead? If so, if you break the power connection from the parking brake to the BTB, the BTB no longer has any source of power. Regardless, a quick fix would be to run a new power wire to the BTB. Either tap into the same power source as the yellow wire on your D3, directly to the battery, or to a fuze in the fuze box in the cabin that has constant power (make sure you use the in-line 3A fuze that came w/ the BTB). You don't want to connect to the parking br

I suggest you check your IP-BUS connections to the BTB and the D3 deck. If the BTB option still does not come on the D3 check to make sure you didn't blow the in-line fuse to the BTB. And if that doesn't work, I suggest checking your BTB ground again and consider moving the grounding point if possible and away from the D3 bypass.

http://www.pac-audio.com/products/produ ... 0Interface Also, I originally had my D3's GPS antenna on the dashboard of my 02 Acura TL up against the windshield. I moved it to behind the passenger a-pillar to hide the antenna, and I have had no GPS signal problems.

yw. Hope you're successful with the rewiring of the yellow and red wires

On your D3, what do you have red wire attached to your car? If your D3 is staying on when the keys are out of the ignition, then you're using connecting your D3 red wire to something that is still has power when the keys are out. I suggest hooking up the red D3 wire to you ACC on your main harness or on something that only has power when the car is on (car cigarette lighter if you confirm it does not get power with the keys out of the ignition).

Your amp should have an input for the remote line. Most of the time, it's labeled "remote", and is near the ground and power connection to your amp. On my Alpine PDX, it's #6 in this diagram: