deadlyap1

sounds like you wired your mute/att wire to the door switch I would go back and check your wiring again.

By bypass do you mean shut it off completely? If so, just don't load it and it wont make any heat or much draw.

When they release upgrade disks, does it have any effect on the navigation routing methods the unit tries? reason I ask is that I have a D2 still running the 60MTP disk. It sends me on routes that are way longer than necessary and often far from the beaten path. tonight I was traveling about 70 miles on a route which can and should be traveled 99% on i95 freeway. It kept on telling me to take exits and listed an arrival time of 11:53. When I kept on ignoring the exit directions, it fianlly made a route the way I had planned in my mind staying on 95 and then listed the arrival as 11

So you don't have to run another splitter. All you do is run a short cable from the 1/2 output to supply signal to 3/4. Here is my suggestion: Is there any way you can just sell off the stuff you have and get the right stuff for thr job? Throw those 8ohm mids and your tweeters on ebay and get a good set of componants that come with a crossover. Then you can use the new componants as your fronts (ch 1/2), the cheap pioneer coax as your rear (ch 3/4) all off of amp #1. Save the other amp for when you get a decent sub and use it there. This way you aren't creating any extra he

Did you connect the green wire to the parking brake wire on your Ford and then ground it on top of that? The green wire should not be connected in any way to your Ford. Just ground it and the mute wire you re-located. If you ground the green wire and also connect it to the brake wire of the Ford, the car will always think the parking brake is applied.

I just put a D2 in mine. If you take out the radio door and look inside, you will see what modification you need to make. It will work, but is a PITA and requires a lot of custom stuff. You will either have to DIY like I did or have some one do it which will probably be around $500-1000 of labor. First, the cage that surrounds the 1din radio area and supports the vent needs to be un bolted and removed. There is one wire grounded to the cage, re-ground it somewhere else. Then, you need to remove the SRS module. you will need a T30 bit for this. Once you have the SRS module out, y

Can anyone help, please? thanks

LOL I wish. It is going in an S2000. I had to relocate the airbag module and I am now fabbing a bezel for it hence the need of the dimensions. there is a set of vents that I would like to keep if possible, but in a worst case I can ditch them depending on the size I have to work with.

OK, that is what I thought, but I was thrown off when I read the installation manual for the D2 and it gives the cutout dimensions as 178mm x 111mm that works out to 7" x 4.37" The extra .37" is what worries me for my application as it will be really close. I cannot wait till it arrives so I can just see for myself. If anyone has the ability to measure the exact height and width of the unit itself, I would appreciate it.

Hello, Great forum, I just stumbled upon it while researching some stuff for an upcoming install. I tried searching, but I could not find the exact outer dimensions of the installation cage for a D2. I am hoping someone can take a quick measurement of the outside of a cage for me so I can get the dimension I will need. Thanks