C6VetteRocks

Hi, first you need to buy the Apple (only Apple's will work with the iTouch, I installed the TOL Monster and it does not work with iTouch only iPod) iTouch/iPod Composit video output cable. Also if you want to for longer than the battery lasts, get a car power adapter (sorry don't remember who's but Best Buy has it. This will alow you to plug the USB end of the Apple cable into it and then the Lighter or aux 12v socket. Then plug the composit video and audio into the input video / audio connectors on your Z. Then you set the Z to video in and run the iTouch normally, the Z does not contro

what is this about,,, the Z1, Z2's are on the comptable list http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vi ... 0054710260 Not acording to Crutchfield, here is their compatibility chart: Compatible Units: The Pioneer CD-BTB200 Bluetooth Adapter is compatible with the following Pioneer head units: http://www.crutchfield.com/App/Product/ ... ailed_info At the bottom of the page

[michaelgates"] You guys are obviously not computer guys Sorry to name drop but I worked on the first 8080 through Intel® Core™2 Quad PC and Servers. You can't just add a blue ray drive in a laptop or Head unit and expect it to play Blue ray movies. Try lookup video decoding processors, HDCP, or even DRM. I memtioned that in one of my posts. But to use your statment, you can't add a DVD drive to a PC or Laptop and just play movies. That takes the same type hardware, firmware, and software. So stop beating up on Microsoft. Kinda taking it personal. In or out of the i

I'd say HD-DVD was more like Betamax... and blu-ray is like VHS... if we're going with that analogy. I was going more for the Sony Betamax which was the better format loosing to VHS which was a lesser format. The trick then was Sony came out at 1.5Hrs a tape and VHS being a smaller media could fit 2Hrs in a cassette. One VHS, one movie. Then upped the vewing time by slowing the tape speed, loosing more quality. This time Sony used better format and lots of content and money.

Your correct, my miss type. Too many years of binary.

Regarding BR, what is the screen size and viewing distance? I seriously doubt the extra resolution, assuming the in-car display could even display 1080p content, would be visible. Seems like a waste of money and effort. Can we all get one thing nailed down. Blu-ray is not a resolution, it is a media format. The format is caused by the type laser used and the disk layers. A DVD laser system is not compatible with Blu-ray media, but the Blu-ray laser system is compatible with DVD media. Blu-ray format simply will store enough data for a 1024p movie. You could put 1024p onto a DVD but yo

its not so much a matter of what it would come with, but more of having an all-in-one multimedia navigation unit...and having it all work properly with no long boot-up times. and ive never heard of blue-ray compatible head units. last i heard blu ray players were about a grand. so that in a unit, PLUS the required hd screen for the blu-ray to work, plus all the other featres mentioned would make it quite expensive. but well worth it if thats the thing your into. Fast example:http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16827118013 - PC Blu-Ray drive 159.99, didn't take the time to

I wouldn't have a problem paying 3 grand for something like that. Throw in everything but the kitchen sink, and make it all just WORK together. Oh yeah, I would pay for that. oh trust me i would too, i was just simply saying that while it is a dream unit, itd cost an arm and a leg. It would cost more just because there would be a niche that would pay, myself included, but why? Nothing listed is bleeding edge. Even the “conversational†type speech recognition is not new, just perfected. Though I remember a now retired VP that 20 years ago told a speech recognition group that

It's not that the first out have problems, it's that it would take a redesign to make this worth anything. You lose a navigation unit to gain an iPod interface. They didn’t even improve the audio capabilities. Sorry just upping the output to 4v, which requires you to have installed an amp that accepts 4v input already or upgrade it also, is not an improvement just a hype. An upgrade or top of the line In-Dash Navagation system would be to start with the Z, keeping all the Z features and adding things like: Blu-ray capability, larger hard drive, minimum of 5.1 (7.1 would be state-of-the-a

Z series might be the older series, but new doesn’t make it better. Just use the Pioneer comparison of the Z3 to the F9x. You lose a navigation unit to gain an iPod interface. They didn’t even improve the audio capabilities. Sorry just upping the output to 4v, which requires you to have installed an amp that accepts 4v input already or upgrade it also, is not an improvement just a hype. An upgrade to the Z would start by keeping all the Z features and adding things like: Blu-ray capability, larger hard drive, minimum of 5.1 (7.1 would be state-of-the-art), THX, DTS, a (useful) mute bu

Fantastic, thank you very much

Does the F work with the SIR-PNR2 Sirius receiver? Thank you

Mine has been by-passed since I installed it. Though I generally only use it for entering destinations when moving, everything works moving or not.

If you bypass (which is strickly your choice and not any of my responcibility) the unit, you can play DVDs on the unit's LCD. The iPod® interface at this time does not do video. But you can purchase a cable from Apple® for playing output on a TV with standard audio and video plugs, and connect it to the video in. Since the cable also has the USB plug for power, you can get a car cigar ligher adapter and give the unit power while you watch.

I'm using a GEX-P5700TV with my Z2. As a unit they work fine. As for reception in the Portland OR area it sucks. Before I mounted the antennas in my rear facia, I tried it just hanging loose in unobstructed mounting setup as well as other configurations. It didn't make any differance. As for FCC, all TV receivers must be digital reception capable and TV stations must brodcast a digital signal by date X. It does not mean on date X or X + anything analog is going to stop. Let's understand reality. TV stations live by advertizing. Dose anyone think any big company is going to allow so

You can do what I did, buy the Monster iPod to AV cable and attach it to the Ax Video input. Works like a charm.

I have the Z2 which should be the same maping as the Z1 update. In my little driving so far, it's 50/50. My street now goes though which it doesn't and didn't on the Z1. My driveway is now an extension of the cross street which ends at the end of my street. Also the map has lost the"streets" in my work parking lots. On the other hand it now knows there is an airport in the big open space that the Z1 had. As for POIs the ones here seem to be where they should. I will say that my orginal NAV system had the same mistakes with my street when I updated from the 2005 data disk to the 2006

Just data from my own Z2 install. Please no comments, but being an AV highender I first iinstalled my BC1 using the top of the line Monster Car Video cable, to match the rest of my install. When I checked reverse or map/RCV all I had was black video. Eveything was working except the video. I checked everything with no results. Then just to check the video cable I used the cheep brown cable that came with the BC1. Bingo perfect video. Monster no video,cheep video. So I left the cheep in and will use the good cable for something else.

Using the Pioneer Dealer Locator, none are available anywhere near Portland Or. The bimbet on the Pioneer Shop site 800 line "doesn't have it and won't sell it". After reading many of the posts and issues with copies, I perfer to pay the 250 to have a real disk to upgrade my Z1 and Z2. Thanks

First if I want to listen to this I can just go to a meeting at work. Second, Hyperite you’re a perfect example of the old adage, “ Remain silent and be thought of as ignorant least you speak and prove itâ€. Third, 8AxleEd you have proven you have experience and education, you really don’t need to keep expanding on it. It really doesn’t matter which one of you have the PHD, what matters is getting the bypass. Now since I have been doing hardware and software for more years than I like to remember, 8AxleEd is correct. Unless you’re a Pioneer programmer with all their SW tools, si

That really points to software as suggested above. Z1 early to Z1 late or patch updated was software, and now US Z2 to European “Z2†must be software. What would most likely be a good exploration would be comparing the software from a AVIC-Z2 to the AVIC-HD3BT. It might no be an easy SW hack but, it might easily point to the US bypass. Being from the hardware side with some old C programming, the easy (and seems like the way Pioneer did it) way would use the 4 open and E-Brake as inputs and read them in a register. It somewhat sounds like the light flashing bypass, on the early models)

I paied the 10 to answer this in the orginal post, just switches no a useful bypass

Most likely it's just a switch to disconnect the nav antenna and VSS wire and ground the parking brake. Anything else, I would believe it when I see it. Paid the 10 bucks, yes nav antenna switch.

Might I offer a simpler suggestion. Go to Radio Shack and purchase a Linear Taper Potentiometer, 1M-Ohm Catalog #: 271-211 or 100K-Ohm Catalog #: 271-092, and use that to determine if resistor is needed and find the correct value. Also, you might want to check the pins, if any, that are at 0V. Are they shorted to ground or are the near 0v. Pioneer might have went the other way and have an input looking for a “high†as compared to a “lowâ€. As I’m sure both of you know simply putting one end of the pot to ground and the other to 12V using the tap for the pin under test will allow yo