dumpystig

Easiest way....... go to Top Menu > Settings > System Settings > Battery Status > Battery Power Indication, and press Off

Try reversing the 'Battery' (yellow) and 'Accessory' (red) connections: this is a common anomaly with Euro cars.

CaminDFW in PM wrote: "You'd probably have more friends in life if you weren't suck a fucking asshole. DOUCHE!" Haha! That's very good; and I bet you thought it up all on your own too, clever little man. Ah well..............

You'd probably have more success if you posted this in the Car Audio forum................

I'd say that's a very good description Although HeyRobi may have another prob causing his reboots. If I drive off before my 500 locks-on it may take a little longer to get a fix, but it never hangs or reboots: after maybe a mile or two it's up and running. I

I've only had this happen maybe 2-3 times, I think tapping screen to bring up cursor then hitting Map button brought it back. AFAIK it's not a feature, I think it happens after a certain button sequence

Sorry, I only had a little time. Have you sorted it yet?

How?

I've just done a very quick search, I gota go to work now, but try here: viewtopic.php?t=21618

Yeah, you're correct, it is, I misunderstood your post, sorry. When pressing up or down to zoom in or out you have to take a few seconds between presses to let the map 'stabilize'. Sometimes the map will alter 2 or 3 times with each press, so let it settle before you press to zoom again. It's a bit of a pain at first, but you do get used to it.

Yeah, it is a bit fiddly, but if you go into > Settings > Navi Settings > Visual Settings > Smart Zoom, then press the spanner icon, you can adjust the zoom in/out limits to your requirements. Have you read your manual?

Just out of curiousity........... do you still own your F-Series? And forgive my ignorance, but what's that all about??????

Yeah, that's the easiest way, but far from the best. As I said in earlier posts, I did a full concealed hardwire install, and it really was hard work, but well worth it. And much better than the option you suggest. But it's obviously up to the individual owner as to what option they want to do.

Yeah, I know about that connection method, but IMO it's a crappy way of doing it. First off you will have those wires hanging about over your dash, secondly (importantly) you will either have more wires on show for the audio connection or have to rely on the in-built (mono) speaker which is, quite frankly, an absolute joke. It's up to you which way to go, but I gota say once I did the full install I have no complaints, it's just like having a permanent fixture but with the added security of being able to remove it when away from my car. Oh, yeah, it's also great for doing my mods indoors

I assume you mean the (fat) black cable that connects to the cradle/dock? If so then the answer is no, that cable connects to the ND-G500 amp, which is what supplies the Avic with 5V power, as well as control over what is output thro' the car speakers (BT phone, Nav voice guidance, music etc.) As long as your headunit has ISO connectors for the speakers/power then you will be ok, but as well as installing the amp and the fat black cable, you will also have to install the loom that is also supplied. As I've already said in other posts, the install is a nightmare (and I'm an electrician!) b

Correct. Let us know if it makes any difference.

It's not really sub-standard, the main bug is that the 500 is crap as a stand-alone A/V device unless it's installed together with the ND-G500 amp. And the installation is a bitch, the wiring harness is about 16' long! But if you have some knowledge of wiring, and plenty of perseverance, it's well worth the time and effort.

You should d/l the Pioneer Bluetooth update, Version: HW100-SW330 RC3, that may be of help; although it states that it' addresses mainly problems with Blackberry, it's worth a try and won't cause any probs.

Yup, the harness is a nightmare! It works like this: - Headunit speaker output > Harness speaker input - Harness speaker output > Car speaker connector (which your h/u was originally connected to) - Power connections: +12V permanent, +12V accessory, -12V (ground) - Handbrake (connect directly to ground, not to handbrake) - Reverse wire (optional, I just taped mine up) If you need any more specific advice, let me know -

Glad you're sorted, most of the file copying is pretty easy once you've done it a few times. And you will soon find yourself getting the 'bug'! Happy modding

Open MiTACAP folder on SDCard, go into APL2 > iGO > content > MapDBInfo, and change the 'Area' code to your particular region: AU: Australia EW: Europe RE: Asia (I think) UC: USA/Canada Should be good to go EDIT: your device is Europe, so change UC to EW

Erm........ that's a bit like saying a dinner plate receives the same signals.......... or your Avic GPS receives the same signals. They both do, of course, but the thing is, they won't both neccessarily work. Different types of radio/micro wave transmissions require the (same) appropriate antenna to gather the signal before it's processed by the receiver. So I still think what you said is wrong, but if I ever see a car with a dinner plate attached to it's roof, I'll have a pretty good idea who is driving

You contradict yourself there mate, but also what you're saying is plain wrong. Digital is digital, analogue is analogue: big difference.

I've been away from this for a while, busy with work and family stuff, and also having my 500 'modified' by my 2year old son to the point where its now kaput - lil angel! I have just got another from ebay, only used a couple of times and mint, and a bargain too. I'll be getting back into it and sorting out all my newer mods, so an updated zip is in the pipeline, but it will take me a bit of time. Will be back with my new zip soon as it's ready.

I don't have any hiss at all, sound reproduction is perfect. But I did cut and solder the loom, from about 16' to 3', so all the interconnections are much more direct. Assuming you just have all your loom coiled up behind the dash, I would think it's acting as an induction loop and picking up interference from the surrounding car loom/electronics, and this will be happening every time it's powered up. It was a time consuming job cutting it all but worth it in the long run. What I did was cut the loom about 16" from the amp plug then soldered a 20-pin male computer power connector to t