1loudls

i would crank your times up a bit, and it should fix the problem. I dont think that it is so much the timing between each step that is the problem (because when hooked up to an actual hand brake, you can preform the sequence pretty fast and it still work) I think the change in the firmware just need to see the sequence start a little later. which while aggressively long, with the original posts instructions i have seen work fine with the newest* firmware (*I would have to double check on the version # to make sure that it is the newest, as we had to ship all of our stock back to pioneer a litt

if your having any problems with the SD card then you definitely have either a software or hardware problem with you avic, updating is definitely a good place to start.

you will kick yourself in the ass every time you turn on a cheap Chinese knock off, well until it breaks anyway.

if you used the correct harness (gmos 01) it gets the illum signal through the data bus and converts it over to a normal wire the radio understand, if you did not use an integration module, then you will need to find a light bulb on the dash that you can tap into the positive wire. other wise the only other spot i know for sure that will work is the factory parking light wires (only if the parking lights do not come on normally during the day) from DirecTechs: positive parking lights - brown (L), brown/white ® @ underhood fuse box, red 32 pin plug, pins F6 and C6 also Bluetooth s

judging from your sig, i would say that you have more than good enough equipment to have very good sound, so keep on enjoying it and dont worry about the audiophiles that just want to point out what they think your doing wrong. also i must say, that mossberg install sounds aggressive! lol I bet that works better than a viper alarm!!!

yup, sounds like you over wrote you software mod, looks like its time to either redo it or just do a hardware bypass. so easy a caveman could do it!

no. it is normal, it will do the same with any MP3 on flash media

pioneers are know for developing a bad signal ground or blowing pico fuses that can/will cause a bad alternator whine. been covered many many time with a few different fixes.

your problem is that the installer hooked up the antenna wire instead of hooking up the amp turn on wire. you old saab probably did not have the premium sound system (factory amp) and your new one does (this is why every thing is much louder now) since the wire from the radio is only turning on the amp when the radio is on, your amp is not getting turned on for any other source. this is why there is two different wires at the back of the radio. the blue wire is to turn on a power antenna, 12v is only sent down the wire when the radio is the active source so that a power antenna is

pioneers website. its where you get the update and the instructions to use it

no and no.

personally, if they both cost near the same price, i would rather have the one that is the most flexible and can be reprogrammed if needed (or re-purposed later if needed). the important factor is that they have changed what the radio need to "see" before with one of their models, so they very well could do it again. IMHO bottom line is that if someone cant figure it out, I have to question whether or not they should be doing their own work. it is nice to have options, so glad it does work.

OP: i would like to apologize for turning your thread into a circus.

no, I am on a forum for a decent, well featured, and good valued head unit for cars, if i was on a forum for "high fidelity" units we would be talking about McIntosh, Definitive Technology, Arc Audio... not pioneer (which is why pioneer market all of their high end stuff under different names, such as elite, premier, and stage 4) for the record, the quality of sound took a major hit when i went from having an Alpine radio to an AVIC, its not even close. however the AVIC was about half the price of an Alpine that does all the same stuff, so the trade off was worth it to me. so then since i j

i have never used a PAC module for factory amp integration, however with all the metra modules Ive used, you just hook it up color to color like normal (except for P-brake, reverse, and VSS, those colors are usually a little different)

the rest of the world just hides the GPS antenna under some plastic parts of the dash never to be seen, just like how most car companies do with their OEM GPS antennas. the sat antennas are the only ones i dont like to put inside the car.

well i've never seen one not have the pause, if you think about it, it is reading a file, the file is done and it stops, then selects a new file, and then starts playing it, its not quite the same as reading and decoding a solid stream of bits off of a CD. its little things like that apple does, that makes their products so damn good and the industry standard.

why cant the dude enjoy how he is using his system, if he cant tell the difference with the BT compression, why should he care, not everybody is an audiophile, most done even have the right equipment to truly hear a huge difference, also when streaming internet audio, you are always losing a lot of SQ through that compression, BT only makes is a tad bit worse. also, if i am worried about SQ, that last source i would be dealing with would be the SD card reader.

yes seeing how steering wheel controls are wired external remotes, the wired remote input would be the correct spot. as long as the system can get a good clean view of the sky (not in a major city surrounded by tall building and bridges) it should be very accurate with out VSS hooked up. however, hooking it up will only make the system more accurate, especially when there are things blocking good sat reception.

personally, I'd say go for the avic, and sell the JL amp, use the PDX, and then end up spending even less for the upgrade. shoudln't have much trouble getting $200 -$300 for a brand new JL full system amp. i just think the design of the PDX is a little better for a full system amp, such as four main speakers and one good sub. such as four channels 75W rms @ 4 ohm + one channel 300w rms @ 2 ohm ) since the most common setup for a good sub is 4 ohm DVC (2ohm total). the JL would be be good if you had four main speakers and bridging the last two channels for 200 watts @ 4 ohm (kinda weak on t

some toyota's use dual antennas, the AVIC's can only take one of the antenna plugs, if your car has both, one of the plugs will be too small to plug in anywhere.

thats good to know, i will agree with you that you should know exactly what is what! i will give you the respect you shall deserve going forward. not necessarily, there are a couple of states where it is not illegal, not to mention the AVH p3200 i have installed into my boat, that doesn't have a brake wire to attach to. and I will apologize for any guff i sent your way, you wouldn't believe how many ass clowns i deal with on this and other forums that spread incorrect information around which really screws with a lot of the newbs that are not very familiar with this kind of stuff.

a lot of times, the numbers are very hard to see on the bottom, if it comes with the socket and harness, it usually covers up the numbers. sometimes instead of numbers it might have a diagram on the side with no numbers. glad you got it all set. I do hope they come out with updates that does fix most of the little bugs, these units have so much potential. when the F-series first came out, it was plagued with glitches and issues, and after a few generations it (X-series) is now a pretty solid system. same should be able to be done with the App Radio series!

standard shop rates are mobile video install $120 dash kit $20 wire harness $20 optional steering wheel adapter $100 adapter labor $60

does anybody know what the timing is for the alpine mode?? it does make sense that it could work, since it basically does the exact same thing on one wire (simulate setting, releasing, and resetting and leaving the parking brake on) while also adding a positive trigger to simulate holding the foot brake down while doing the other sequence. you are just not hooking anything up to the foot brake wire.