RonS

Of course you can update your software. Isn't that what I just said. Forget about comparing it to a Z120. It will have all the latest bells and whistles as a Z140 except for the calibration mic. But it is and always will be (internally) a Z110.

OK. As I said earlier, if the update actually starts running, the CardInfo is good. BTW, I just noticed you have a US IP address (T-Mobile USA), but have an F 920 and are installing EU maps. What's up?

Read the ShortFuse post #1 in the Z110/Z120/Z130/Z140/Z150 Hacks & Mods. BTW, I hope you used single quotes around the godzilla's password when unzipping. That has been the single biggest (and most likely) problem in this whole thread. That would also cause this problem.

I'd use the 4GB one and I always used the default. Maybe try unchecking quick format. However, I think some have gotten 32GB to work. IDK what sector size they used.

You have the correct cardinfo if the update started. Once that happens, it doesn't matter. Are you sure you didn't change any other files? Use an 8GB SD.

Does the unit still work as before? If so, I'd ignore that and stay away from Forced Write. I don't think it was the problem anyway. Splash screen is just a file stored in NAND.. I also think the current device is stored in non-volatile memory. More likely there is an installation problem. The yellow wire needs to be connected to a constant +12v source. If it is a switched source, the unit will "forget" stuff like that. A sure sign is if it forgets pre-set radio stations.

Does it also loose other settings and radio station pre-sets?

Your Z110 (which is running v1.0 of the firmware and probably 2009-2010 maps) can be updated to v7 with 2017 maps. However, you need to read the update release notes first. There are many changes (starting in v2.0 IIRC) that you might not like. If you use an iPod for music, the look of the interface is totally different. You'll also loose voice navigation commands. It does add Aha and Pandora apps through your smart-phone. Your Z110 will never be a Z140. Differences in hardware. But it can be updated to be current. BTW, there's no way to just update the maps. One thing to be aware of. Sin

You should read the specs in the back of the manual. There also lots of info on the number of files/directories and file formats supported. If you don't have a manual, you can download one from Pioneer's web site.

Sounds like it was not installed correctly. Most headunits have two power feeds. A red wire is for switched +12V and it is the trigger to turn on the unit with the car's accessories. The yellow wire is supposed to be connected to a constant +12V source. I suspect your's is connected to a switched source. The yellow wire is the unit's power for standby. Most settings are stored in volatile memory. So if the yellow wire is not always hot, the unit essentially resets when off.

Was the password you used 8 characters or 10? No, your problem is not with CardInfo.CIF If it was wrong, the update would not even start running. You would not be asked for a password. CardInfo only controls whether the update is for your model number. The fact that you got to 99% means that there is something wrong with your update SD. The most common problem is not using 'Dracarys' (all 10 characters) to unzip. Another common error is that you modified any file from what was in the zip. With the exception of CardInfo (if needed). The last problem is an I/O error reading the SD. Use a

You left off the most important info. What exactly did you enter for the map unzip password? How many characters were there?

Good news that you got it to work. I'm sorry that I got so heated in my response. It wa because I was irritated that this issue has happened so often. That and a few glasses of wine It was a very bad idea to use apostrophes in the password. It is just asking for confusion. But since godzilla paid for and provided the files, I have no basis to object. And it was his right to do it. But the worst part is that, when the incorrect password is entered, the archive still partially unzips. So many people aren't even aware of the problem until the update fails with xx% completed. Of course then t

It is not Dracarys, it is 'Dracarys' That has been expressed at least a dozen times in this thread. You don't seem to be capable of following detailed instructions. And your attitude seems to imply your incompetence is our fault. You even reported those posts to the moderators as "fake". I find that offensive.

You have to manually update the BT firmware. It doesn't automatically get updated with the maps. Update BT firmware through the BT settings. It is on the map update. This will wipe-out all BT pairings, so you'll need to re-pair.

The head-unit's black should be grounded. The camera's black should be grounded wherever convenient. Don't just connect them together unless you add a ground point. If those red wires you are referring to are +12V (switched) then it will work. Somewhere in the settings of the head unit there is a Camera On setting. If the simple red/black camera wires are connected correctly, you should see an image. Otherwise, I've got no other ideas.

Assuming your headunit is working (ignoring the camera issue) the adapter must be working. Just leave that alone. It is important to eventually get the reverse sensor working - mainly to switch to rear view when you go into reverse. But that is a separate issue. It sounds like you have a handle on that. For camera testing purposes, ground the camera's black to some metal on the vehicle chassis. Connect the RCA to the brown connection on the unit. Figure any easy way to run +12v wire to the camera's red. Even if it just goes from the battery. In fact, for testing, just put the camera und

Are you bench-testing the unit & camera, or is the unit installed in a car? The camera's black goes to the common ground - typically a bolt in the chassis. The camera's red goes to a +12v source. The unit's red powers the unit (a switched +12v source). It does not power the camera. You could connect them both to the same +12v source. Since you are attempting to use the camera view, the backup wire doesn't matter. If you get no image, its could be a defective camera. Do you have any other way to display a composite NTSC video? A monitor or TV with a RCA video input? Just to test the c

Can you try another phone? Since the NAV audio is going to the front, it doesn't seem to be an installation or hardware issue. Sometimes it helps to reboot the phone. Just generic suggestions since I have no experience with that unit. Is this a new install, or is this a change in the behavior?

First, make sure you are running BT firmware 3.32, It was included with the map update. If you were running the original X9310 software (v3.x) it probably is not current. It is common to have BT and/or iPhone connectivity issues after a software update. Reset the unit by disconnecting the battery for 30 seconds. If you have to clear the security password, it's very easy http://avic411.com/index.php?/topic/83592-security-password-removal-script/ will delete the current password.

Did yo install the Shortfuse hack? If so, did you do it by patching it and installing it yourself, or by running the script?

And you entered ......???

You are making this more complicated than it is. For a X9310bt you don't need to modify any files. This procedure has evolved over time. Download and unzip the ShortFuse hack script (3 files) Put those 3 files in the root of a FAT32 SD and insert it in the unit (only do this once unless you got some error message running the script. Download and unzip the 2017 map update from nezfotnemom and copy the folders UPDATE, FIRMWARE, and the file CARDINFO.CIF to root of a 4GB (minimum) FAT32 SD. If you use a larger one there can be issues with cluster sizes. I don't know for su

What size SD? Best to use a 4GB or 8GB. Which Cardinfo.cif did you use? I do remember someone with an F930 saying they had to use the other CardInfo, but it shouldn't be necessary. Worth a try if nothing else works. Sorry, other that the above, I have no idea.

As far as TestMode, I want to make sure you are doing it right. Download the file from http://avic411.com/index.php?app=core&module=attach&section=attach&attach_id=15233 then unzip it and place TestMode.key in the root of a FAT32 SD. Then insert it into your unit. You don't press any keys to start testmode. If nothing happens, turn off and on your unit with the SD inserted. However, without knowing exactly what you did, it is hard to say how to fix it. BTW, I hope you never installed Condi's HackMode. That is a Trojan Horse that has been known to brick some units.