datahex10000

My Z1 has an intermittent problem with the front right RCA output. It loses volume and has tons of static. As a result of this, I have to just use the rear output to my amp, and I've lost the voice guidance audio since it only works on the front channels. I was thinking of getting the external guide speaker. Is the Pioneer guide speaker any good? I have a diesel truck, and it would have to have a decent amount of volume for me to hear it well. Are there any other speakers that work other than that expensive Pioneer one? Thanks

My Avic-Z1 isn't outputting a full signal out of the front right RCA output to my amp. The speaker is just barely audible with tons of static type noise. When I switch the amp input cables front to rear, the noise goes to the rear speaker and the front sounds fine, so it's definitely not the amp. What's funny is after I switch the cables around, it starts working normally for a day or so. Then it starts sounding bad again. I just moved my Z1 from my car to my new F250 pickup about a month ago. I just got new amps, so I'm wondering if the amp is loading the outputs too much or somethin

I ordered a bunch of stuff from them on Ebay(amps, subs, etc) and had no problems. I'd recommend them to anyone.

This really blows. I thought something was wrong with my Ipod adapter or Z1 until I read this thread. I can't believe Apple released a new product that is this buggy. My $375 160 GB classic goes back to the store in the morning. I guess I should have bought the 80 GB 5.5 gen they had on clearance. Doh!!

Just download the Z2 image talked about in the hacks section and write that to a compatible drive. You'll find threads in the hacks section that will tell you what drives will work and how to do it. It's not really hard at all.

AFMagnum I'm glad you're going usenet. I've been using it for years. It's a great way to get huge files. I know what a pain it is making the PAR files and splitting the original into smaller, postable files though. I would also be happy to kick you a few bucks for your trouble and use of your upload bandwidth if you'd setup a paypal, and I'm sure a lot of the other guys would too. I'd actually be happy to buy the disks from Pioneer if they would make enough friggin copies to sell me one. LOL

Cool. If you decide to order some more, PM me or post in the forum. I'm about 95% sure I'll be buying a Mazdaspeed 6. I'm trying to sell my car right now, so as soon as I get it sold, I'm going to buy a new car. What do the kits cost in single lots? I don't speak Japanese, so I'm a little hesitant to call them. LOL It's odd nobody sells them in the US. I searched everywhere for info on putting aftermarket radios in the speed 6 and found nothing but some car PC forums where people tapped into the stock navi screen. Do you have a speed 6? I noticed your speed 3 in your posts. The

Thanks. That's exactly what I'll need. I found out a couple days ago the single DIN kit won't work in the Mazdaspeed because the HVAC is integrated with the radio controls, so I couldn't hack up that other kit if I wanted to. Do you have any idea how much this kit costs and where I can get it? The manufacturer site mentions nothing about cost or distributors. I don't have a speed 6 yet, but there's a beautiful silver one for sale that I'm looking at.

I know anything is possible, but I don't want to do anything that will kill the value of the car when I decide to sell it. I don't want to do things like move HVAC controls and hack up the dash. I don't mind cutting up dash trim panels that can be replaced though. I'm hoping to find someone who has done this. It sure looks like you might be able to get the single DIN kit and do some trimming. I just have no idea if there is room behind the dash for a double DIN. Buying this car is contingent on my Z1 fitting. I know I'm obsessed, but I don't think I could like without my radio. LOL

I am in the market for a new/used car to replace my aging Acura, and I really like the Mazdaspeed 6. The only problem is the only dash kit available for a 2006/2007 is single DIN only. It looks like there might be room to squeeze a double DIN in there, but I'm not sure. Has anyone ever heard of putting a double DIN HU in the new body style Mazda 6? I don't care if it requires $500 worth of custom work. I just want to know if it's possible. I really liked the car.

I think that date is Feb 17, 2009, so you still have a couple years to use the analog tuner. I can't believe Pioneer isn't making an analog/digital hybrid tuner to use in the meantime. It's very annoying to spend 2 grand on a HU and not be able to get a TV tuner for it.

It depends on the area. I do a lot of traveling, and the Z1 is great for interstate travel. In some cities, it's flawless. It others, it's beyond horrible. I happen to live where it's horrible. Most of the time, it will take you 20-30 miles out of the way to get you to a location. When I'm in Texas, it's almost always flawless, ditto for Florida, but in Tennessee, Kentucky, and Ohio, it's terrible in the areas I travel in.

I'm finding more and more errors with mine too. More often than not, it does not take me to the address I type in. It's almost always at least 1/8 mile off. I made a trip to Knoxville last night, and the Z1 was HORRIBLE. I had me driving in circles and made me late for a date. It turns out they redid like 5 freeway on/off ramps over 2 years ago, and the Z1 maps did not reflect this. It's inexcusable to have maps this out of date on a $2000 navi unit. My $60 USB laptop GPS is worlds better as far as map acuracy. I'm thinking of picking up one of the Kenwood 7100s for my mom's van.

I noticed a couple days ago right after entering a route that the navi screen disappeared and the Pioneer logo screen like you see when the Z1 is booting showed up. I had the Ipod playing, and the audio never quit. After a minute or so, the navi screen came back up, and that navi functions worked fine after that. Has anyone else had this happen? I'm just wondering if it's a sign of system failure. I've still got a few months left in the warranty, so if this is a sign of doom, I want to get it sent in before the warranty is up.

It's much more likely the problem is in the monitor or the wiring to the monitor than something wrong with the Z1. Make sure you have a good ground on the monitor, and make sure your RCA cables are routed away from any high current wiring or other interference sources like blower motors. Sometimes, you can't make some of the screens look good. I got a cheap one on Ebay and ended up chucking it and buying a high end one. Anytime the truck was running, it would turn off and on and the picture would jump all over the place. Some screens just have really crappy power filtering, and some

I've never taken mine apart, but I'd say it's very likely an RF choke used for noise filtering. It could have diodes in it too to protect against reverse polarity. I wouldn't recommend removing it.

The lamp is just a cold cathode fluorescent lamp just like the ones used in laptops and portable DVD players. There are web sites you can get replacement lamps and inverter boards that I'm sure you could make work with the Z1, so if you're handy with a soldering iron, you could replace the lamp yourself for a lot less than the $200 Pioneer wants. I'd say the hard drive will fail before the lamp does though.

I think all Pioneers do that. I have an Avic Z1, N3, and a Premier Deh-P980Bt using the GEX-P10 and the GEX-P920, and none of them scroll XM. The Deh-P980BT has an everscroll mode that works on everything but XM. It's really annoying since my $50 Delphi XM unit I use with the boombox scrolls everything and a $2000 Pioneer with a $200 XM tuner can't.

Try UltraIso. http://www.ezbsystems.com/enindex.html That's what I've always used to copy and edit my N3 discs, and I can't see how the D3 ones would be any different. I use UltraIso to make the image and then Nero to burn, but there is a burn option in UltraIso. I bet that would work too. I'll have to try it myself. If the D3 is similar to the N3 and if you don't want to waste dual layer DVDs, you can make a test DVD on a single layer if you delete all the large POI files. Just look for the files that are several hundred megs in the POI directory, delete them, and then make a new

The Z1 navi could be better. I'd say mine is right 90% of the time, but when it's wrong, it WRONG. LOL When I have mine set to return home, it tells me to get off on the wrong exit. I'm 90B, and the Z1 says 90A. When I get off on 90B, the Z1 shows me driving through a field and then figures out I'm on the road. It then tells me to turn right when I should turn left and keeps telling me to make U turns for about a half a mile when it finally gets its brains back and recalcs the route correctly. The POI database is also extremely poor in my area. Rarely is the address correct it takes

Here's a thought to make it a lot easier to try things: Run wires out of the dash from each possible pin pulled up to 5 volts and also one from ground. Then hook them up to a decade box with a high impedance volt meter hooked across the wires and play with different resistance settings while someone else drives. I wish I had access to a Z2 myself. Not knowing how to bypass it is bugging me to death. LOL

Thanks Ducati, That makes me feel better. I thought it was an issue of the bluetooth update just being flaky sometimes, but if it's just a CD burn issue, that's easy enough to verify before doing the update. I'm too impatient to wait for Pioneer to send me a CD, so I guess I'll be trying it this weekend with a burned copy.

I've tried to search to find the answer, but I can't find anything definitive. My question is has anyone not been able to finish the update and recover their hard drive by burning a new CD after having the update stop at some percentage? I just picked up the ND-BT1 and am wondering if I should pay to unlock my drive and make a backup image of it before doing the update. I don't want to take a chance on bricking my Z1.

The amps and speakers are okay. It just depends on how much of an audiophile you are. I like the sound of MB Quart and Bostons, but they cost a LOT more than the Pioneers do. As for the amps, I've used them before, and they sounded fine, but one thing to note is the Pioneer built in crossovers SUCK. Unless you have an external sound processor, you can never get enough bass taken out out of the midrange speakers to make them stop distorting. I've never seen the crossovers points in a D3, but if it's like my Z1, it only crosses over everything above 125 Hz, and that's not high enough to ge

With every Kenwood I've ever seen, all you have to do is ground the parking brake wire on the radio. With the old add on G510 nav module, even the lawyer disclaimer screen disappears on its own after a few seconds when the unit is bypassed. Kenwood definitely beats Pioneer in the ease of bypass category.