JohnK

Installed the PAC TR-4 in the trunk ... didn't work -- one second delay is not enough. I know now that the PAC TR-7 is configurable for much longer delays, but now that I have the TR-4 in hand I figure I should try the approach suggested by CWolfey, which will definitely resolve the turnon pop. And as long as the turnoff is immediate this will resolve my overall problem.

That idea makes sense ... however isn't the delay box supposed to have it's positive lead attached to solid 12v and not switched? My PAC TR-4 should be arriving today so I can try the install this weekend. I don't really want to pull the radio yet again, so I'm going to install it at the amp in the trunk and see how it does there. But if that doesn't solve the pop compeltely, I'll try your suggestion next. Thanks. John

Okay, I pulled the head unit today to check the voltage on that blue/white remote turnon wire. First I disconnected the car's antenna amp to make sure it wasn't supplying residual voltage. When I turn off the car's ignition, the remote turn-on wire remains at 12v for about two seconds. It does not kill the voltage immediately, as the Pioneer Tech Support rep suggested should be the behavior. I don't know if any of the other wires to the head unit are causing it to supply residual voltage. I don't imagine this is configurable in the head unit. If this is how the head unit is des

Depth is likely going to be the deciding factor. I don't think the DIN spec includes depth, so it's up to the individual mfg as to how much space they allot. Some stock radios may be very shallow (meaning their dash cavities may not be that deep), and I believe most nav units are in the 6-7" deep range. One other consideration is fan placement on the head unit. The depth of my stock radio and z130bt replacement were fairly close -- however the fan on the stock unit is recessed whereas the fan on the z130 sticks out. That means in a tight install the first thing on the back of the radio

Fyi, I sent an email to Pioneer tech support and received a response today: ===== Thank you for contacting Pioneer Electronics (USA) Inc. 1 The red wire is not the main power, it is used to power the unit off and on. The yellow wire is the main source of power. 2. It is normal for the blue/white wire to remain active until the vehicle is turned off. It should kill the voltage as soon as the radio is turned off. Sincerely, Rocky Customer Service Representative ===== So I would guess that the car's antenna amplifier, which is also connected to the accessory wire, has a capaci

Please help me review this behavior in light of the issues I'm having with amp turnoff pop -- If the head unit uses the constant 12v as it's main power supply, then when you turn off the ignition in the car, the headunit should sense that a shutdown is in order and it should shut down gracefully, i.e. cut voltage to the accessory wire, wait a couple of seconds for accessories (especially speaker amps) to power down, then shut itself down. I would also expect some sort of indication that the unit is shutting down, like the circular arrow progress indicator you see for 10-20 seconds upon st

When I wired my Alpine amp remote turnon wire to the z130BT's accessory wire, turnon was fine, but when I turn off the radio the 12v on the accessory wire stays on for a couple of seconds after the radio is off, resulting in a "pop" in the amp once the accessory wire voltage drops. Is this the behavior of the AVIC head unit accessory wires? Since the head unit appears to be powered by the 12v switched, when I turn off the car it essentially kills the power to the radio. Even though the radio has a 12v constant lead, it doesn't seem like the radio elegantly turns off accessories before

I get a high pitched whine while I'm on the phone: z130bt, LG ENV2 phone. BT connects right up within 15-30 sec whenever I get in the car. It's pretty low level volume but it is still clearly audible, enough to be annoying. It changes pitch when someone is talking vs not talking. It is the same whether the car's engine is running or not. I've tried touching the mic cable to see if my body grounds anything ... no effect. Any ideas? Thanks. John

Can someone also post a visual comparison of the old and new maps? Thanks.

You may not get a warranty from Pioneer ... but many mail order houses provide their own warranty for anywhere from 90 days to one year.

Okay, so we are clear that the Pioneer radios (or all radios?) use the constant (yellow) 12v as their main power source. So the Alpine KPT-445/U needs 15A power, and the radio circuit has only 10A on many cars. Has anyone hooked up the KPT-445/U (or any other low-power amp) to the car's switched circuit for the cig lighter, which is usually 15A? Thanks. John

I'm actually asking this question in part because I may be trying an install of the Alpine Power Pack on my son's Honda Accord (Pioneer DEH6400). The install instructions for this unit suggest you run the wire directly to the battery, or tap into a constant 12v power source that has 15A capacity. But the Honda has only 10A constant, but 15A switched (due to the needs of the cig lighter). So unless I can up the amperage on the radio fuse to 15A, then my only option is to wire the amp directly to the battery (one of their choices). Or ... can I run the amp off the 15A switched line? So

So we all know that Yellow is constant 12v and red is switched 12v. Which one is actually expected to supply power to the unit for the internal speaker amp? I have seen some radios claim that the primary power comes from the constant 12v, and the switched 12v is only used as a signal wire to tell the radio to turn on. Much as the 12v illumination wire would signal dimming of the display.I have also seen some radios that claim that the constant 12v source is used for memory backup only, and the switched 12v carries the power to operate the radio. I have installed the z130bt in my 2005

On the Z130 there is an additional wire -- from the RCA harness -- that must be grounded as well. Since there is no wire in that location in the harness as it comes from the factory, it may be a hidden feature provided on the radio to prevent the random consumer from bypassing their parking brake safety feature (until they go to the forums, of course). I'm guessing that the radio is deducing from the GPS that the car is moving, and this extra wire must override that piece of information.

All of these signals (ignition, park status, drive direction, speed, nighttime illumination, button presses, etc) can all be monitored through the CAN-BUS. Can-Bus devices like Metra (maybe not the Axxess, but others) can pick up these signals and transmit them to the radio either through hard wires (as in my z130bt) or subsequent CAN-BUS wiring. My stock radio had a direct CAN-BUS connection to the harness. The hard wire signals are described somewhere. I thought for ignitionit was a 12v (on) or 0v (off), illumination was 12v(night) or 0v(day), for parking brake it was either ground

It sounds annoying, but here's a quick one (attached). If you have any old Beatles albums they have a lot of separate channel recording on their songs. Sounds like your wires are crossed. If you have one of those specialty"systems, they have "between channel" speakers. If the auto store wired those speakers to the L and R leads from your head unit, they may effectively tie your L and R channels together. I would suggest you bring it back and have them take another look. They may have to disconnect the between speakers from your system -- or wire it to one or the other L or R, but no

I'm no expert on troubleshooting these units ... but if the car battery was changed, is it possible that when connecting the new battery a fuse was blown on either the constant or switch 12v lines?

I recently installed my z130BT and have no issues with channel separation. Do you have an audio clip that clearly plays different material on each channel? If not, let me know and I can send you some sample MP3 clips.

Other than content, is there a big visual difference between the old and new maps? I've looked around for photos but they are hard to find -- especially ones showing comparable routes. Thanks. John

For everyone who is using the internal amp on their head unit, if you wouldn't mind running the following test I am curious to hear what you come up with. I've attached a series of WAV files that each generate fifteen seconds of white noise at various low sound levels. I took a WAV file of white noise generated at 0db and dropped it successive amounts of volume. So "white-60db" means -60db, "white-80db" means -80db, etc. The goal is to determine which of these audio clips you can hear above your radio's noise floor, and which ones you can't. Copy all of the attached files onto a US

(moved to new thread)

I have a z130bt with firmware app v3.001 and specifically am not having issues with my stock mic. My mic is mounted on the rear view mirror mount up at the top of the windshield, on the left side of the mount pointing towards me. So far everyone I've spoken to on the phone says I sound fine. Where is your mic mounted that is giving you problems? Do you have the rear and/or sides of the mic enclosed? If so, as in cupping your hands around the sides of a mic, it will really screw up the sound -- so make sure the mic is on a flat open surface before you assume it's bad. If you sti

Will the bluetooth problems not be resolved by a software upgrade? If the z110 was so problematic, how about the z130? I just purchased a refurb z130 over the z140 because (a) it was cheaper, and ( it has voice control features that were taken away in the z140 (and I assume z150 as well). Otherwise it's supposedly the same unit. I also believe I am eligible to upgrade my z130 from 3.001 to 4.010, but if I were to lose the voice control features then I won't do it. So I am content with the z130 until Pioneer produces a new model that has full CAN-Bus handling built in and/or r

Does anyone know if the CAN-01.2 interface is sold anywhere nowadays? Here's a link with the wiring diagram: http://www.connects2.co.uk/Instructions/CAN-01.2.pdf But otherwise I cannot find anyone who sells it. I've tried Metra Online, www.installer.com, and sonicelectronix.com ... no luck. Thanks. John

Turning the sub output on should send signal to the sub pre-outs. It will also set up a low pass filter on the sub output, and an (adjustable) high pass filter on the front/rear speaker outputs. This allows the radio to manage the crossover between main speakers and the sub. So yes if you leave it on there is a change you will filter out some of the low frequencies from the main speaker outputs (although that can usually be adjusted). If you're not planning to use the sub pre-outs, then to play it safe turn off the sub on the head unit.