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Updated Bypass Instructions for the Avic Z1, Z2, and Z3


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Ducati, Thanks so much for your great response! You made me feel a whole lot better. I think I will just print out your instructions, including the pictures, and take it to the installer and tell him to forget everything he ever knew was right, and follow the instructions to the T!

 

I'll keep you updated on the install (which should happen early next week) and let you know if all went well.

 

You really are a pillar of this forum, Ducati, and a priceless asset to all those in need. :D

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Hey Ducati, new development and I hope you can help (nothing is ever simple!),

 

I just received my refurbished unit in the mail today, and saw that the original manufacture date on it was on May 2006. I know this falls before the June/July 2006 date for the ground 2 wires, and that your circuit may be needed... however, I don't know if it was refurbished post July 2006 and was updated with the latest software. I guess my first question is, do you know any way that I could tell when it was refurbished (maybe by calling Pioneer and telling them the serial number off the unit?)?

 

Secondly, if there IS no sure way to find this out pre-install, then what is the best way to instruct the installer to go about bypassing it correctly? Should he just install it like he normally would, without grounding the wires, and the do the Light Flash Bypass to see if it works before closing up the dash? If it does, then keep it that way, and if it doesn't, then that probably means the unit is updated and he can proceed to grounding the 2 wires?

 

I know I'm probably making this more complex than it needs to be, but I just want to make sure it gets done right the first time, and I don't have to keep going back and spending more money, just to get this in my car properly and bypassed correctly.

 

Thanks for all your help so far, and I hope you can help me work this out.

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They system could be powered up on a test bench. Then try the flash technique to bypass. If that don't work then it's 2 wire ground time. To make the avic think you flashed the lights the illuminaiton wire in the harness will have to be tapped to +12volts on the power supply for a second or so. Just follow his directions and tap the ill. wire to +12volts each time it states to turn on the parking lights.

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cntrylvr79 is right. Try that flash the lights first (you can do it on a bench and see if it works). As long as the parking brake wire is not grounded when you do it, the only way to get into the locked out menus is if it works. If everything is unlocked after the flash, then you are good to go.

 

The other way isn't as easy to test, because just the parking brake part of the 2 wire ground will work on the bench, and in the installers shop and even for the first (up to) 100 miles (depending on vehicle).

 

So the easiest way to test with the car motionless is to try the headlight flashing (or just do what cntrylvr79 said and touch the ILL wire to 12V at the right time). If that doesn't work, try the 2 wire ground, that will work for the first few days, after that if it doesn't lock you back out again, it was done correctly.

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Do you think it would be easier to just go ahead and do the Bluetooth update that I keep hearing about, and then have the installer do the 2 wire ground bypass?

 

If so, where can I find the bluetooth update and how do I load it up onto the Z1? If it costs money, then I may not want to do it.

 

The problem is, the installer I was going to go with does not have a "test bench", so I think he would have to install it into the car first to test it out.

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Do you think it would be easier to just go ahead and do the Bluetooth update that I keep hearing about, and then have the installer do the 2 wire ground bypass?

 

Might be. But there is some risk with updating your Z1 with a disk.

 

If so, where can I find the bluetooth update and how do I load it up onto the Z1? If it costs money, then I may not want to do it.

 

You didn't even read the thread you posted in did you? HINT: read my first post in this thread.

 

The problem is, the installer I was going to go with does not have a "test bench", so I think he would have to install it into the car first to test it out.

 

Test bench? It's tough to test "video in motion" or "motion lockouts" on a bench. Unless it's either a very long bench or the bench is on wheels. :)

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They system could be powered up on a test bench. Then try the flash technique to bypass. If that don't work then it's 2 wire ground time. To make the avic think you flashed the lights the illuminaiton wire in the harness will have to be tapped to +12volts on the power supply for a second or so. Just follow his directions and tap the ill. wire to +12volts each time it states to turn on the parking lights.

 

This is where I got the test bench thing.

 

What are the risks in using that link to burn a CD and update my Z1 with it? Has there been a high success rate in updating the Z1 with this file?

 

Would it be possible to just have the installer do the 2 wire ground bypass, then if it quits working after 100 miles, then just do the update via CD? Would that work?

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They system could be powered up on a test bench. Then try the flash technique to bypass. If that don't work then it's 2 wire ground time. To make the avic think you flashed the lights the illuminaiton wire in the harness will have to be tapped to +12volts on the power supply for a second or so. Just follow his directions and tap the ill. wire to +12volts each time it states to turn on the parking lights.

 

This is where I got the test bench thing.

 

What are the risks in using that link to burn a CD and update my Z1 with it? Has there been a high success rate in updating the Z1 with this file?

 

Would it be possible to just have the installer do the 2 wire ground bypass, then if it quits working after 100 miles, then just do the update via CD? Would that work?

That sounds like a good plan :D

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I already have the DucatiBoy module on the older z1. After upgrading the bluetooth disk and do the wire shorting thing do I have to take off the module or can I just leave it alone?

 

You can leave it. It doesn't hurt anything to leave it in, but it won't be doing anything in there. If you are going back there, might as well remove something that's not doing anything. But you can leave it if you don't want to bother.

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What does the connector look like? So i can just buy one and put it in and ground that pin. Is it male or female? Do you by any chance have a picture of the type of connector needed to add to pin 2 in order to add wire and ground?

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