my bypass didn't work, mostly because my connection wasn't good. Now though I have a really tight squeeze and my mute wire looks like its in bad shape. Is it possible to put a new end on it to insert into the harness, or twist it or something? Or am I just screwed. I don't really wanna open the dash up again, but I want this thing to work. Clip up or down when inserting into harness?
Dan
Buy a new pin and put it on, or go to a car audio shop and see if they have an extra similar Pioneer harness and use one of the wires from it
my bypass didn't work, mostly because my connection wasn't good. Now though I have a really tight squeeze and my mute wire looks like its in bad shape. Is it possible to put a new end on it to insert into the harness, or twist it or something? Or am I just screwed. I don't really wanna open the dash up again, but I want this thing to work. Clip up or down when inserting into harness?
Dan
any idea what size or type of pin that is? Also if I wanted to extend that line to work with it, what gauge are all of those wires.
Dan
I need a new pin as well. Anyway around it?
If not, what size do I need to by, and where can I buy one at?
hey guys,
i accidently screwed up on the bypass... i know i know, how could you... but i did.
i accidently fudged up the mute wire ring terminal. i had a hard time getting it out and a even harder time getting it in to the slot above. so now the tiny metal terminal on the end of the mute wire is really messed up. i'm not even sure if it works...
well question is, do you know where i can find another rca cable? i don't want to get it online. so hopefully a store locally or even better, do you know where i can just buy those little metal terminals.
thanks a lot.
i know the guy above is selling pins, which is what i need. if there isn't any available in stores, then i might go to him, depending on how fast he ships.
nevermind. surprisingly, it still works. thanks though.
I can confirm that this indeed works on my new D3. Just bought it this week, and installed myself that night. Threw me for a loop, as I bought mine as an open box from Best Buy, in which the mod was *already done* on the mute wire pin within the harness; the picture saved me from moving the pin from the already-modded position back to the factory un-modded position- Thanks, and I love it!!! Placed a hidden but accessible switch under the steering wheel/dash for the parking brake wire, just in case I get pulled over and have to prove to the cops that the video is still suppressed when put in gear. Muhahaahaaa...
this helped a friend of mine out thanks
!
An elementary question:
Where does one find all of these wires/pins and the white plastic piece they are connected to? Do I need to remove the stereo from the dash?
Thanks a bunch!
An elementary question:
Where does one find all of these wires/pins and the white plastic piece they are connected to? Do I need to remove the stereo from the dash?
Thanks a bunch!
OK, I saw the flash presentation -very helpful! NOW my question is how do I remove the D3 from my dash so as to expose the wiring piece?
Thanks again!
(I have tried the 'search' function on the forum without success)
OK, time for my question. I had mine installed yesterday and informed the installer of the by-pass and he did it for me, however, when driving above 10mph it reverts back.
Say you get above 10mph, the Nav route options become disabled (as if the parking brake were not set) and if a DVD is playing the image will go away and you get the "warning" message.
Any ideas on what I could tell the installer to do or not do to fix it?
My install of course is a D3 in a '04 Tahoe with OnStar and Bose.
OK, time for my question. I had mine installed yesterday and informed the installer of the by-pass and he did it for me, however, when driving above 10mph it reverts back.
Say you get above 10mph, the Nav route options become disabled (as if the parking brake were not set) and if a DVD is playing the image will go away and you get the "warning" message.
Any ideas on what I could tell the installer to do or not do to fix it?
My install of course is a D3 in a '04 Tahoe with OnStar and Bose.
sounds like the mute wire is either loose or was done incorrectly. make sure its in the right slot and that its secured in and if thats all right then try resetting
I was about to try to do the Bypass on my car, i was a little confused about the grounding part. once i move the mute wire to the empty slot, how do i ground it. if someone can help me with that it would be awesome!!!
Thanks,
Vinny
I was about to try to do the Bypass on my car, i was a little confused about the grounding part. once i move the mute wire to the empty slot, how do i ground it. if someone can help me with that it would be awesome!!!
Thanks,
Vinny
you can do it 2 ways, either splicing them to the units ground (the solid black wire) or taking a zip screw and making wire/bare metal contact with the car.
all electronics need a + and - current. it needs power to come in and a way for power to go out. so you can put it to basically any ground. just watch out if you do big projects cuz too many wires grounded to one wire can cause an overheat.
my RCA harness was never used when they installed my AVIC D3. i moved the mute wire to the correct port on the harness and plugged it into the back of my D3 with no wires attached to the other end. the mute wire out of the box has a rubber cover over the end opposite the plug. do i need to do anything to that wire or does the rubber cover act as a ground if it's not connected to anything? i don't want to ground my parking brake lead because i can pull my parking brake up one click and effectively use this as a switch to enable video playback without having the brake actually engaged. would either of these issues be responsible for the warning screen being initiated when i go past 15 mph? let me know.
The mute wire HAS to be grounded either to the radio's ground wire or the metal of the car's body. If the other end isn't attached to anything, it is not a closed circuit, and is therefor not grounded.
And yes, you can either ground the parking brake wire or attach it to the parking brake switch and use it that way. Although it's not really advisable to drive around with the parking brake up, even if it's at the first click and it's not actually doing anything.
If you want to be able to turn off the bypass at will, you should just ground the parking brake switch as you would normally for the bypass, then just put in a on/off toggle switch on the wire.
Why is it not advisable if the parking brake is not actually engaged? I don't want to install a switch because I've had cops actually search the inside of my car for switches before when I had none. Otherwise, does the parking brake wire NEED to be grounded or does pulling the brake handle up a click suffice?
Grounding the wire and hooking it to the switch and pulling up the brake lever does the same thing.
It's advisable not to drive around with the parking brake pulled up one notch because it's not good for your brakes, providing your parking brakes are operating correctly, that is. But if there isn't any pressure on the brake pads while the lever is up, I guess it can't really hurt anything.
Yeah, the emergency brake cable is loose so it takes a couple clicks to even touch metal.
One more question... it appears that everything is working properly as I drove around all day without ever having the parking brake warning message pop up (finally!) but my Check Engine Light has now come on. This light comes on every once in awhile due to the extensive modifications I have done to my car, but the timing of the CEL and my electrical work was a bit suspect so I thought I'd ask: is it possible that I did something to cause the CEL to come on, or is that totally out of left field?
Completely unrelated and coincidental. Bring the car to somebody with a code reader and see what the CEL is coming on for.
I got my mute wire set and everything... Now onto the parking brake wire. When I bought my car the AVIC D3 came installed in it. The parking brake wire going behind my dash and I can't find the other end. Is this a problem? I know I need to ground it so can I just cut the parking brake wire, or would this not work correctly?
Thanks
Yes, you can just cut the wire and ground it. Just make sure you cap off the other end as it's never a good idea to have bare wire ends laying around. Although it technically can't hurt anything, as it's just connected to the grounding switch on your parking brake.