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Bypass instructions for the Z1

By Jamesdat · Mar 31, 2006in Hacks/Mods💬 427 posts👁️ 155,139 views
Page 8 of 18
Posted Apr 29, 2006 · 03:58 UTC#176
infinkc said:
i guess ill spend some time making the code and try and program one of these things, do you think 3 pulses? or just one, i need to know the timing of how long to wait also, I will make one up for trial and ill send it to someone on the board to try out after i bench test it since i dont have a z1 yet. If all is working properly i will release the hex file and schematic to the users on this forum.


That would be cool, you could even sell them!

I have no idea what the actual specifics are. Most people say 3 pulses. I know there is only a 2-3 second time window to send the pulses.
Posted Apr 29, 2006 · 04:32 UTC#177
Only one pulse is needed. 3 seconds AFTER the remote turn on comes on.
Posted Apr 29, 2006 · 12:08 UTC#178
infinkc said:
pic would be alot cheaper, you can use a pic12c508 or 12c509 that has an internal oscillator, and program it very easily, you would need an transistor for the outputs and a voltage regulator also. total cost would be about $6-8 if that.


Heck, even the PIC10F200 should be able to do this as well. Not a big deal they are both $0.50.

My thoughts are for 12 V in and Ground. Also unhook the illumination wire from the Z1 and plug it into this device. Then one output, the illumination wire to the Z1.

You need 1 processor, 1 5V regulator. Maybe a couple of resistors for a voltage divider for the illumination input to a input pin on the processor. And a fet to connect the 12 V which was the input for this and the regulator to the illumination out. (haven't worked out all this in my head or drawn it up yet). I'm sure theres a cap or so too also which won't be a bad idea.

Then you can disreguard the illumination in line for the first 5 seconds after power on. You turn on, wait 3 seconds, turn on the headlights for 1 second, then turn them off for 1 second. Then turn on or off the illumination out based on what you see on the illumination in. Then you don't need any diode or anything to "protect" the illumination in.

I do have a Z1 and the single turn on and off works. I have tried it and it does work. The only reason you would need more is incase we have the timing off. I'm guessing on the 3 second wait, 1 second on and 1 second off. But that should be real close.

Should be a rather easy project. I won't be able to really work on it till Monday when I'm supposed to be working.

Any thoughts? I like this idea better than just a turn on and off the line and then it's dumb and you need to hook the illumination line with a diode or something.
Posted Apr 29, 2006 · 12:51 UTC#179
Installers, the pac-tr7 has this long disclaimer about always hooking it's outputs to relays, not to the device, is this just a liability statement or is there real danger in wiring it directly?
Posted Apr 29, 2006 · 14:15 UTC#180
edrock200 said:
Installers, the pac-tr7 has this long disclaimer about always hooking it's outputs to relays, not to the device, is this just a liability statement or is there real danger in wiring it directly?


I looked on PAC's web site and I didn't see the specs I was looking for (max amount of current it can supply). Most likely this is a disclaimer of some sorts. If you hook it up to something which draws too much current then you can hurt your TR7. There is no danger like blowing up your radio or car or anything, but at worse case you would render your TR7 inoperatable. If you were going to use it to turn on 7 amps or something, then yes, you should use a relay. If you were just going to hook it to something like the illumination sense in on your Z1 you won't need any relay.
Posted Apr 29, 2006 · 14:29 UTC#181
Thanks, apreciate it.

ducatiboy said:
edrock200 said:
Installers, the pac-tr7 has this long disclaimer about always hooking it's outputs to relays, not to the device, is this just a liability statement or is there real danger in wiring it directly?


I looked on PAC's web site and I didn't see the specs I was looking for (max amount of current it can supply). Most likely this is a disclaimer of some sorts. If you hook it up to something which draws too much current then you can hurt your TR7. There is no danger like blowing up your radio or car or anything, but at worse case you would render your TR7 inoperatable. If you were going to use it to turn on 7 amps or something, then yes, you should use a relay. If you were just going to hook it to something like the illumination sense in on your Z1 you won't need any relay.
Posted Apr 29, 2006 · 14:40 UTC#182
edrock200 said:
Thanks, apreciate it.

ducatiboy said:
edrock200 said:
Installers, the pac-tr7 has this long disclaimer about always hooking it's outputs to relays, not to the device, is this just a liability statement or is there real danger in wiring it directly?


I looked on PAC's web site and I didn't see the specs I was looking for (max amount of current it can supply). Most likely this is a disclaimer of some sorts. If you hook it up to something which draws too much current then you can hurt your TR7. There is no danger like blowing up your radio or car or anything, but at worse case you would render your TR7 inoperatable. If you were going to use it to turn on 7 amps or something, then yes, you should use a relay. If you were just going to hook it to something like the illumination sense in on your Z1 you won't need any relay.


The positive output is rated at 2 amps. More than enough to power the ill. wire w/ a diode in line for no feedback.
Posted Apr 29, 2006 · 15:01 UTC#183
Perhaps you don't have the speedometer and or speed pulse installed so it doesn't know you are moving. I noticed that when I sat there and looked at the menu items they would fade in and out as if I had been engaging and disengaging the parking brake. When it faded in, my dvd would play even moving slowly but when it faded out or my speed got to over 20 mph it would turn off. The routing always blowed.

marathonfl said:
I just purchase a Z1 yesterday, installed it last night, the light switch does work when you flash the light switch at boot up before the Pioneer screen comes up. I tried it with the E brake connected the way it should be wired to the brake, I tried it grouned,. I even left it unhooked, It doesn't matter it still will play DVD while driving with Nav fuctions. : :D
Posted Apr 29, 2006 · 15:51 UTC#184
MChance000 said:
Perhaps you don't have the speedometer and or speed pulse installed so it doesn't know you are moving. I noticed that when I sat there and looked at the menu items they would fade in and out as if I had been engaging and disengaging the parking brake. When it faded in, my dvd would play even moving slowly but when it faded out or my speed got to over 20 mph it would turn off. The routing always blowed.


I have mine installed with speed pulse, parking brake and gps and with the pac 7 sending the pulse on startup, everything works great. Granted, it did cost an extra $25 for the TR7 plus extra programming time, but IMO thats a small price to pay for the added features. So far I'm EXTREMELY pleased with the NAV and routing, but I also live in a major city. Sucks that you had a bad experience, good luck to you on your next unit. Try the alpine IVA-W200 with NAV option, I heard it is also nice, plus it has bluetooth coming soon.
Posted Apr 29, 2006 · 16:06 UTC#185
edrock200 said:
MChance000 said:
Perhaps you don't have the speedometer and or speed pulse installed so it doesn't know you are moving. I noticed that when I sat there and looked at the menu items they would fade in and out as if I had been engaging and disengaging the parking brake. When it faded in, my dvd would play even moving slowly but when it faded out or my speed got to over 20 mph it would turn off. The routing always blowed.


I have mine installed with speed pulse, parking brake and gps and with the pac 7 sending the pulse on startup, everything works great. Granted, it did cost an extra $25 for the TR7 plus extra programming time, but IMO thats a small price to pay for the added features. So far I'm EXTREMELY pleased with the NAV and routing, but I also live in a major city. Sucks that you had a bad experience, good luck to you on your next unit. Try the alpine IVA-W200 with NAV option, I heard it is also nice, plus it has bluetooth coming soon.


The only problem with the Alpine Bluetooth is that it does not have any advanced features like the Pioneer. So basically it is like a Parrot or Motorola hands-free kit.
Posted Apr 29, 2006 · 16:25 UTC#186
htrdlnc said:

The only problem with the Alpine Bluetooth is that it does not have any advanced features like the Pioneer. So basically it is like a Parrot or Motorola hands-free kit.


That's weird, cause I used to have a Parrot CK3100 and I think that has way more features than this pioneer. Sounds better too. The motorola one did stink though.
Posted Apr 29, 2006 · 16:32 UTC#187
ducatiboy said:
htrdlnc said:

The only problem with the Alpine Bluetooth is that it does not have any advanced features like the Pioneer. So basically it is like a Parrot or Motorola hands-free kit.


That's weird, cause I used to have a Parrot CK3100 and I think that has way more features than this pioneer. Sounds better too. The motorola one did stink though.


Oh, well I have the CK3000. But as far as your phonebook, I guess the 3100 would do the same. I mean as far as interfacing with the navigation, poi's and stuff. Also the Z1 will "suck" your address book into it and then display it. Alpine's can't do that.
Posted Apr 29, 2006 · 20:41 UTC#188
Has anyone tried the light flicker trick on a Chevy Trailblazer? For some reason I can't get it to work. Everything is hooked up per the manual and all connections test good. Help! :-)
Posted Apr 29, 2006 · 21:10 UTC#189
Does anybody have a idiot proof version of how to hook up the
TR-7 mod?

my installer have never done it and said he will only do it
if the instructions are 100% clear.. and so far i havent seen one thats
basically baby proof.. if you kno what i mean..

someone please help me out..

thanks
Posted Apr 29, 2006 · 23:16 UTC#190
infinkc said:
stryfox said:
Thanks guys, I have the avicz1 and now my wife can actually use it when I am driving
The light trick worked for me.
I have not tried a long trip yet to see if it resets.
I have the park wire grounded ans I have not found the speed wire yet.
2004 chrysler crossfire.


Speed Sense dk. green/white power amplifier
Notes: The power amplifier is on the passenger side floor panel under the carpet.

Thanks you rock! I will check it out.
Posted Apr 30, 2006 · 13:56 UTC#191
htrdlnc said:
ducatiboy said:
htrdlnc said:

Oh, well I have the CK3000. But as far as your phonebook, I guess the 3100 would do the same. I mean as far as interfacing with the navigation, poi's and stuff. Also the Z1 will "suck" your address book into it and then display it. Alpine's can't do that.


Are you saying the pioneer will auto dial POI's if you have the bluetooth module and want to call one? I didn't know that...
Posted Apr 30, 2006 · 14:22 UTC#192
simply grounding the parking brake wire on new (2005 and up) units DOES NOT work. You will always get a message that te parking break wire is installed incorrectly.

Here is why: The unit must see Ground to the parking Brake wire AFTER the unit see + 12volts to the ignition wire.

Here is the Bypass for that part of it:

Use a relay. Connect the AMP turn on to trigger the relay to throw Ground to the parking break wire.

Amp Turn on - 85
Ground - 86
Ground - 87
Parking break wire from Pioneer unit - 30
not used 87a

This will simply use your amp turn (which turn on AFTER the unit is on) to throw ground to your parking break wire. The relay is used to reverse polarity.

I have done this on every pioneer screen and it works.

As far as the Z1 bypass... I have read something about a sequence of on/off lights and break. havent tried it yet.

on teh Avic N2 use the relay option and then simply connect the bypass terminals on the unit. Takes about 3 min.
Good Luck
Posted Apr 30, 2006 · 14:27 UTC#193
Matt Zorn said:
simply grounding the parking brake wire on new (2005 and up) units DOES NOT work. You will always get a message that te parking break wire is installed incorrectly.

Here is why: The unit must see Ground to the parking Brake wire AFTER the unit see + 12volts to the ignition wire.

Here is the Bypass for that part of it:

Use a relay. Connect the AMP turn on to trigger the relay to throw Ground to the parking break wire.

Amp Turn on - 85
Ground - 86
Ground - 87
Parking break wire from Pioneer unit - 30
not used 87a

This will simply use your amp turn (which turn on AFTER the unit is on) to throw ground to your parking break wire. The relay is used to reverse polarity.

I have done this on every pioneer screen and it works.

As far as the Z1 bypass... I have read something about a sequence of on/off lights and break. havent tried it yet.

on teh Avic N2 use the relay option and then simply connect the bypass terminals on the unit. Takes about 3 min.
Good Luck


Though we apreciate your input, you should really read the thread. Also, even grounding the brake wire with a relay won't help as the unit will disable the screen when it senses motion over 20mph on the GPS or speed sense wire.
Posted Apr 30, 2006 · 17:24 UTC#194
Sorry....I didn't log in last time. I have a chevy trailblazer and stil can't get the bypass to work. It's been 3 days I've been trying!! :-(. Everything is hooked up per manufacturer spec. The truck has daytime running lights, and it doesn't have a convention pul out/push in typre headlight switch. It one that turns and the only way to turn off the lights are to turn the sping loaded knob to the left which automatically returns back to it's original position and turns of the parking and headlamps. Anyone have any ideas why I can't get this to work?
Posted Apr 30, 2006 · 18:34 UTC#195
It will not auto dial but you just have to touch the phone icon on the top right of the touchscree and it will dial it. Great feature


Are you saying the pioneer will auto dial POI's if you have the bluetooth module and want to call one? I didn't know that...
Posted Apr 30, 2006 · 19:05 UTC#196
whtcrxghst said:
It will not auto dial but you just have to touch the phone icon on the top right of the touchscree and it will dial it. Great feature




Thats what I meant, so essentially it's a yellow pages as well? Thats freakin' sweet. Now if Pioneer would just ramp up the bluetooth module production!
Posted Apr 30, 2006 · 19:17 UTC#197
ducatiboy said:
htrdlnc said:

The only problem with the Alpine Bluetooth is that it does not have any advanced features like the Pioneer. So basically it is like a Parrot or Motorola hands-free kit.


That's weird, cause I used to have a Parrot CK3100 and I think that has way more features than this pioneer. Sounds better too. The motorola one did stink though.


Just out of curiosity what did it do that the pioneer doesn't? It looks like a neat product, I'm running the Handsfree Solutions PFK unit in one of my cars, it has pretty neat voice recognition and such, but I've never heard of the Parrot unit.
Posted Apr 30, 2006 · 21:01 UTC#198
edrock2000 said:
ducatiboy said:

That's weird, cause I used to have a Parrot CK3100 and I think that has way more features than this pioneer. Sounds better too. The motorola one did stink though.


Just out of curiosity what did it do that the pioneer doesn't? It looks like a neat product, I'm running the Handsfree Solutions PFK unit in one of my cars, it has pretty neat voice recognition and such, but I've never heard of the Parrot unit.


The Parrot will download your address book automatically over the DUN protocol or over OBEX. Verizon disables your bluetooth on your phones and kills most of the protocols available with Cingular or whoever cause they don't want you sharing ring tones or pictures without you paying them for them. So if you have a Verizon phone (and you hack your firmware) at best you can transfer one phone book person at a time manually to the pioneer. If you don't hack your firmware, you can't do it at all (with the pioneer), you have to enter all your contacts manually. And with the Parrot it downloads them automatically.

And with the pioneer (and I'm assume you don't do the little bypass trick), the only way to use your contact list that you program in manually is to pull over, stop and put on the emergency brake. With the parrot you can do all this while you are moving. If you do the little bypass trick the bluetooth on the pioneer comes real close except that you have to program your addresses one at a time if you have a Verizon phone. If you use the bluetooth while you are driving and as pioneer intended, and you want to make a call, you can bark a phone number at it or call one of your 5 favorite numbers. If you don't remember the phone number and it's in your contact list you need to pull over, and put on your emergency brake to access your contact list. The parrot will let you access it while moving (actually it doesn't even care, it doesn't know if you are moving or stopped). And like the pioneer integrated system, the parrot will play through your speakers and mute your radio when the phone rings.

The one thing the pioneer has is integration with the nav data, the parrot does not have that.

The one thing the parrot does have over the pioneer is that it has GOOD sound processing. The sound processing on the Parrot CK3100 is AWESOME! The processing on the pioneer SUCKS! The pioneer is probably the worse sounding speakerphone for me and VERY bad for people on the other end. Mine has a really bad echo for the people who call me. The parrot sounded really really good.

But other than that they are about the same :)
Posted Apr 30, 2006 · 21:08 UTC#199
Wow thanks for that write up ducatiboy! I apreciate it.

I do utilize the bypass trick and I'm not with verizon, so it looks like I'll be in good shape. I have heard complaints about the echoing and voice quality, but since I don't have a BT module yet I have no experience. I will say though that the mic does a good job of relaying my speech since the HU has never had a problem understanding me. I did mount the mic very close to me though. If the voice quality is really bad with the BT unit I will invest in a noise cancelling mic.
Posted Apr 30, 2006 · 21:09 UTC#200
jkawar said:
Sorry....I didn't log in last time. I have a chevy trailblazer and stil can't get the bypass to work. It's been 3 days I've been trying!! :-(. Everything is hooked up per manufacturer spec. The truck has daytime running lights, and it doesn't have a convention pul out/push in typre headlight switch. It one that turns and the only way to turn off the lights are to turn the sping loaded knob to the left which automatically returns back to it's original position and turns of the parking and headlamps. Anyone have any ideas why I can't get this to work?


I'm sorry you are having trouble but it does work. It's very much a timing thing. But with your lights on all the time, have you checked your illumination wire? You might need a switch or something extra. Go to your hardware connection screen and it will show the illumination input wire and if it's high or low. If your lights are "off" and that line is low, then figure out what makes that go "high" and make sure when it's booting up, you flip it to high.

First boot up the system and don't try to bypass anything. Go to that hardware connection screen and look at the wire. If you haven't done anything and it's "low", what do you do with your car at night? Do you turn something on when it gets dark? If you do does that line go "high" (it says this on the screen). You need to turn your car on and have it start low, when you see the "now starting pioneer navigation" screen make it go high and then low again. Bypass complete.

Something else to try, look at the nav screen and put it in "driver's view" or that cool 3d mode. Is the sky blue or is it night time. Find what ever headlight swtich you have and turn it on and off, when you turn it on, the sky should go to night sky and then when you turn it off, it will go back to blue sky.

If you can't do this with a switch in your car (like those of us can without daytime running lights) then you need to put in an extra swtich or wait for those of us who are messing with processors to make you a hookup. Or you can just believe us and put in a TR7. Unless you have a different firmware than I have, I would assume all Z1's are the same across the country (at least so far... how many different versions could they have made?).
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