Hi,
I was wondering if by any chance anyone has tried the light trick with an AVIC-N3? And if so, did it work?
Thanks.
Mike
Posted Apr 28, 2006 · 15:50 UTC#151
Bypass instructions for the Z1
Posted Apr 28, 2006 · 16:31 UTC#152
I just purchase a Z1 yesterday, installed it last night, the light switch does work when you flash the light switch at boot up before the Pioneer screen comes up. I tried it with the E brake connected the way it should be wired to the brake, I tried it grouned,. I even left it unhooked, It doesn't matter it still will play DVD while driving with Nav fuctions. : :D
Posted Apr 28, 2006 · 16:35 UTC#153
The only problem I have found so far is that the mapping seems to be out dated. It does find my address which is about 7 years old. Can't wait to get Blue Tooth.
Posted Apr 28, 2006 · 16:36 UTC#154
marathonfl said:The only problem I have found so far is that the mapping seems to be out dated. It doesn't find my address which is about 7 years old. Can't wait to get Blue Tooth.
Posted Apr 28, 2006 · 17:20 UTC#155
Guys, the bypass will temporarily work even if you DONT flash the lights. I got into my car this morning, start it up WITHOUT flashing the lights, and to my surprise the DVD still play and all NAV functions was unlocked. But after about 15 minutes of driving, the dreaded warning came back and the video went away.
I watched Office Space on the drive into work, laughed my ass off :D
I watched Office Space on the drive into work, laughed my ass off :D
Posted Apr 28, 2006 · 17:42 UTC#156
jdpdata said:Guys, the bypass will temporarily work even if you DONT flash the lights. I got into my car this morning, start it up WITHOUT flashing the lights, and to my surprise the DVD still play and all NAV functions was unlocked. But after about 15 minutes of driving, the dreaded warning came back and the video went away.
So if you flash the lights everytime, then after 15 minutes the video stays??
Posted Apr 28, 2006 · 17:45 UTC#157
That is the fact, althougth I have not driven on long trips to prove that it will stay bypassed.
Posted Apr 28, 2006 · 19:09 UTC#158
I have had the Z1 installed per factory specs and the bypass works fine. I have even driven while the DVD player, played a video for over 30 minutes and it still continues to work fine. It is true however if you apply the EB anytime after that, the process will have to be started over.
I have a question: Does anybody else out here have the iPod connector?
I have a question: Does anybody else out here have the iPod connector?
Posted Apr 28, 2006 · 19:13 UTC#159
I have the CD-IB100II. I don't use it very much cause there is a slight delay when browsing songs. But, it does work very well.
Posted Apr 28, 2006 · 19:51 UTC#160
mikey38654 said:Hi,
I was wondering if by any chance anyone has tried the light trick with an AVIC-N3? And if so, did it work?
Thanks.
Mike
http://www.avic411.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=80
LOOK THERE
Posted Apr 28, 2006 · 20:18 UTC#161
[quoteHere's what I've done.
1) Parking brake cannot be connected. I installed a switch to ground anyway, because you might need to in the future.
2) You must flash, or power-up illumination wire once while that message is on in the upper left hand corner. Not when the Pioneer screen comes on.
3) I connected a TR-7 to be triggered by the amp turn-on wire, wait 3 seconds, and then pulse the illumination wire once. I installed a diode on the ill. wire, so I can still use it without it back feeding to the parking lights.
4) You get that TR-7 programming from the website. There are 5 bonus features you get there. Not in the instructions, and not from tech. The instructions it comes with only go to #16, you need #17.
1) Parking brake cannot be connected. I installed a switch to ground anyway, because you might need to in the future.
2) You must flash, or power-up illumination wire once while that message is on in the upper left hand corner. Not when the Pioneer screen comes on.
3) I connected a TR-7 to be triggered by the amp turn-on wire, wait 3 seconds, and then pulse the illumination wire once. I installed a diode on the ill. wire, so I can still use it without it back feeding to the parking lights.
4) You get that TR-7 programming from the website. There are 5 bonus features you get there. Not in the instructions, and not from tech. The instructions it comes with only go to #16, you need #17.
That is why I have the e-brake on a switch, and most of the time leave it off.
Posted Apr 28, 2006 · 20:43 UTC#162
tgrove said:mikey38654 said:Hi,
I was wondering if by any chance anyone has tried the light trick with an AVIC-N3? And if so, did it work?
Thanks.
Mike
http://www.avic411.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=80
LOOK THERE
Yes, I remember this topic that I started. But, that doesn't answer my new question. Can I avoid voiding the warranty (from pulling the sticker) by simply flicking the lights with the N3, or does it NOT work for the N3? Nobody seems to have said anything about trying it, so I was just wondering if there was somebody who doesn't use the N3 bypass who could try it.
Posted Apr 28, 2006 · 20:45 UTC#163
^ ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ ^
Oh yeah, that was me incognito. Forgot to sign in.
Oh yeah, that was me incognito. Forgot to sign in.
Posted Apr 28, 2006 · 21:09 UTC#164
Anonymous said:tgrove said:mikey38654 said:Hi,
I was wondering if by any chance anyone has tried the light trick with an AVIC-N3? And if so, did it work?
Thanks.
Mike
http://www.avic411.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=80
LOOK THERE
Yes, I remember this topic that I started. But, that doesn't answer my new question. Can I avoid voiding the warranty (from pulling the sticker) by simply flicking the lights with the N3, or does it NOT work for the N3? Nobody seems to have said anything about trying it, so I was just wondering if there was somebody who doesn't use the N3 bypass who could try it.
Ok just to answer your warrenty question...I work for a distrubtor in FL, and our instructions are if the label is pealed back and /or missing its warrenty is voided.....that being said if you use a heat gun to peal the label back we cant tell if it was done or not, so you might thry that
the n3 is not effected in anyway by the lights
Posted Apr 28, 2006 · 21:46 UTC#165
That's good advice, I might do that (the heat gun thing). Makes sense. Thanks!
Posted Apr 28, 2006 · 22:08 UTC#166
Thanks guys, I have the avicz1 and now my wife can actually use it when I am driving
The light trick worked for me.
I have not tried a long trip yet to see if it resets.
I have the park wire grounded ans I have not found the speed wire yet.
2004 chrysler crossfire.
The light trick worked for me.
I have not tried a long trip yet to see if it resets.
I have the park wire grounded ans I have not found the speed wire yet.
2004 chrysler crossfire.
Posted Apr 28, 2006 · 23:43 UTC#167
stryfox said:Thanks guys, I have the avicz1 and now my wife can actually use it when I am driving
The light trick worked for me.
I have not tried a long trip yet to see if it resets.
I have the park wire grounded ans I have not found the speed wire yet.
2004 chrysler crossfire.
Speed Sense dk. green/white power amplifier
Notes: The power amplifier is on the passenger side floor panel under the carpet.
Posted Apr 29, 2006 · 01:08 UTC#168
Instead of doing the PAC TR7 and possibly using a diode, I was thinking that you could use a small PIC and have the illumination wire go into that and then one of the outputs would come out of that. Write a page of code that when it comes on the first time, it would (even if your lights were on) have the line to the Z1 be off, then turn it on and off, and then after a few seconds, let the real state of the illumination "come though". Shouldn' t be too hard to set up. We are supposed to have a "personal development goal" to work on at work every now and then. I think I just came up with a cute little project. :)
Posted Apr 29, 2006 · 02:40 UTC#169
Ive been reading various boards for hours :) Have a few ?'s :)
Just got my Z1 today (ordered it yesterday)
It is replacing my DEH-960MP
I noticed the BLLACK connector is exactly the same as the Z1 so nothing to do there :)
On the 960 Im using the PRE-OUTS so nothing to do there :)
After all the reading etc, it looks like I only need to hook up the following things....
1) the Speed sensor
2) IP Cable for XM tuner (in the back existing from my 960)
3) GPS Antenna
4) EB Wire (Even knowing I have a automatic ??)
5) Illumination.....
6) Plug in FM Antenna
On the illumination cant I install a toggle switch (instead of flicking on headlights... flip switch up to send 12v into it (for the hack) then Back to down position so it will send the power from the illumination )
Does this sound right ?
Do I have to hook up this "EB Wire" ? (I have no idea even where IT or the SPEED Wire is ! :(
Any help would be MUCH MUCH MUCH appreciated :) You can also AIM me ws6tranzam05
Thanks in adv :)
Just got my Z1 today (ordered it yesterday)
It is replacing my DEH-960MP
I noticed the BLLACK connector is exactly the same as the Z1 so nothing to do there :)
On the 960 Im using the PRE-OUTS so nothing to do there :)
After all the reading etc, it looks like I only need to hook up the following things....
1) the Speed sensor
2) IP Cable for XM tuner (in the back existing from my 960)
3) GPS Antenna
4) EB Wire (Even knowing I have a automatic ??)
5) Illumination.....
6) Plug in FM Antenna
On the illumination cant I install a toggle switch (instead of flicking on headlights... flip switch up to send 12v into it (for the hack) then Back to down position so it will send the power from the illumination )
Does this sound right ?
Do I have to hook up this "EB Wire" ? (I have no idea even where IT or the SPEED Wire is ! :(
Any help would be MUCH MUCH MUCH appreciated :) You can also AIM me ws6tranzam05
Thanks in adv :)
Posted Apr 29, 2006 · 02:54 UTC#170
ducatiboy said:Instead of doing the PAC TR7 and possibly using a diode, I was thinking that you could use a small PIC and have the illumination wire go into that and then one of the outputs would come out of that. Write a page of code that when it comes on the first time, it would (even if your lights were on) have the line to the Z1 be off, then turn it on and off, and then after a few seconds, let the real state of the illumination "come though". Shouldn' t be too hard to set up. We are supposed to have a "personal development goal" to work on at work every now and then. I think I just came up with a cute little project. :)
i was going to program a pic chip but didnt know how much demand there will be for it, i have all the pic development tools and this application would be a simple one to do.
Posted Apr 29, 2006 · 02:56 UTC#171
Basic Stamps should handle it fine, and are easy to program, but not too cheap. If I had a Z1 I would test it with my Basic Stamp2.
www.parallax.com
www.parallax.com
Posted Apr 29, 2006 · 03:01 UTC#172
Hmm, upon further inspection, it looks like you could get a BS1: http://www.parallax.com/detail.asp?product_id=BS1-IC
And a 12 volt relay with a 5 volt control current and that would be it.
Program to BS1 to send 3 pulses on startup after a short delay and then go to sleep.
Upon getting power it would run this code:
And a 12 volt relay with a 5 volt control current and that would be it.
Program to BS1 to send 3 pulses on startup after a short delay and then go to sleep.
Upon getting power it would run this code:
PAUSE 3000 (3 seconds)
HIGH 1 (send pulse to relay)
PAUSE 250 (1/4 second)
LOW 1 (kill pulse to relay)
PAUSE 250 (1/4 second)
HIGH 1 (send pulse to relay)
PAUSE 250 (1/4 second)
LOW 1 (kill pulse to relay)
PAUSE 250 (1/4 second)
HIGH 1 (send pulse to relay)
PAUSE 250 (1/4 second)
LOW 1 (kill pulse to relay)
SLEEP (turn off until power is reset)
Posted Apr 29, 2006 · 03:23 UTC#173
pic would be alot cheaper, you can use a pic12c508 or 12c509 that has an internal oscillator, and program it very easily, you would need an transistor for the outputs and a voltage regulator also. total cost would be about $6-8 if that.
Posted Apr 29, 2006 · 03:28 UTC#174
infinkc said:pic would be alot cheaper, you can use a pic12c508 or 12c509 that has an internal oscillator, and program it very easily, you would need an transistor for the outputs and a voltage regulator also. total cost would be about $6-8 if that.
I'm not familiar with that, but it sounds like it would work, and its A LOT cheaper!
Posted Apr 29, 2006 · 03:31 UTC#175
JasonH said:infinkc said:pic would be alot cheaper, you can use a pic12c508 or 12c509 that has an internal oscillator, and program it very easily, you would need an transistor for the outputs and a voltage regulator also. total cost would be about $6-8 if that.
I'm not familiar with that, but it sounds like it would work, and its A LOT cheaper!
i guess ill spend some time making the code and try and program one of these things, do you think 3 pulses? or just one, i need to know the timing of how long to wait also, I will make one up for trial and ill send it to someone on the board to try out after i bench test it since i dont have a z1 yet. If all is working properly i will release the hex file and schematic to the users on this forum.