docpaddock

Well ebay it is. The Z2 was great, but if I can get some kind of return on it still than I better sell it now. That's the problem with technology. There's always something better coming out and you'll be trying to keep up throughout your life. Looks like this is the way Pioneer is going with the SD format for maps and such. The Z3 may be the last in the Z series, or not. Just speculation which could further be argued do to the lack of change (besides maps) from the z2 to z3.

Dang, Looks Like my Z2 is going on ebay pretty soon before the general public sees this beauty. With the ability to update POIs so easily, this one looks like the one to get. Are there any arguements out there on why to stay with the Z series before I start putting my factory radio back in for the time being?

Well my antenna is under my dash on a metal bar that stretches the width of my car. My reception is probably a 9 out of ten. I often have reception of all satelites. However, I only average 1 to two green bars on the signal strength and very rarely get the third green bar. Navigation is very accurate in my vehicle with the atenna's placement. I'm thinking about getting XM and I've heard that the sattelite radio's antennas really need to be exposed and aren't as forgiving as the gps antennas. So I'm still figuring out what to do with that so no one sees it. But for GPS, it works great

Alright, I got my Z2 back in early January and installed the entire thing myself which was amazing considering I had never done anything with car audio or wiring in my life. I trusted this website and others for information, and I learned quite a bit. The whole process was educational and enjoyable. Anyways, now that I've saved some more money, it's time to accessorize my unit with a back up camera and possibly xm. Since I'm new to car wiring still, I need to know more about constant power connections. So here are my questions. 1. Can multiple constant power connections be made on

May not be the problem, but here's my 2 cents. My VSS wasn't working with the system either. I took a second look at my connection and it appears that I didn't clamp down enough on the metal piece that taps the wire. So I got my pliers out and gave it another good squeeze or two and got it to work. It may be something as simple as that, but maybe not. Hope it all works out.

Thanks guys for everything, I didn't read the last few posts, but my AVIC-Z2 is now installed and I must say for someone that has never done anything like this in his life.......I actually didn't break anything!!!!!!!! It runs great, like it should, and looks decent in the dash. I say decent cause I just don't care for the interior of my car to begin with. It was given to me by my grandmother cause she doesn't drive anymore. Can't argue with a free car with low miles and great gas mileage! However, I can no longer use my cup holders cause the cups would block the screen. I knew

I like some of these suggestions, but on others I'm just scratching my head. First, 3d buildings? Um...I like to look through my windshield and see real buildings. Not saying that it shouldn't or should be added, I just personally don't see the point of having a 3d representation of something that is right in front of me. And about having the voice command just beep at you instead of "Please say voice command." It will just beep at you if you push the speaker icon on the screen that mutes the voice directions. Then it will just beep at you when it is ready for you to say the command.

It's sits in a cradle on your dash. "When connected to an existing car stereo, the device can be snapped into a rather snazzy-looking cradle on a car's dashboard, giving it a well-integrated appearance." http://ces.cnet.com/8301-13855_1-9841339-67.html

Alright, thanks for all of the info guys....I'm learning more and more through this forumn!

Alright another newbie question: I realize there has to be power flowing to get a reading...but should I be poking into wires with the negative of the batterey still connected or should I disconnect the batterey, poke the wire, recoonect the batterey, throw it in reverse, etc. Or do I just poke away with power flowing? The newbie just doesn't want to be zapped silly!

Okay, that was a straightforward no brainer answer. Thanks, sorry I couldn't figure that out on my own.

So this is more of the how to than vehicle specific and please realize I'm new to electronics, wiring and all of that good stuff. Everyone keeps saying to use a multimeter to make sure you have the correct wire. For example, when you put your car in reverse, check each wire until you get a signal and that's your reverse. Anyways, I understand multimeteer basics, I just really have a stupid question that I'm clueless. Do you have to strip each wire to get direct contact with the multimeter or can you check it through the insullation. I just don't want to strip every wire in a grou

thanks

I think soldering is the best connection out there with shrink tubing. Should be fun soldering behind the dash! The harness will be easier as I have a adapter coming from crutchfield which I can solder to the avic unit without being inside the car. Too bad it arrives 4 days after my unit. The holidays messed up the shipping on it. So cntrylvr79, I've seen you giving people wiring information in the other sections, wrong place to ask, but have any info for a 1999 Nissan Sentra XE. I've already found my VSS purple/red, and the parking brake is a no brainer. I'm still looking for r

how would you recommed connecting them in the first place? Witht the provided connectors sent with the AVIC? A good solder job?