lbridges

Look in the hack & mod section, they are in and work well - at least it does for me.

Got mine today. Small physical change - large improvement in usability. Thanks for making the product available to the community.

I know there was a delay on the black ones - have they come in/gone out? Dumb posting, guess I just need to be patient.

The bypass won't corrupt the software, but if you use the device while moving and get in an accident, then the installer and the company could become liable for damages. Given the amount of people that sue in the USA, I'd think twice myself if I was an installer...and then probably not do it.

I'll take a shot. 1. I found the female portion of the pin had spread some for me. I had to pull the pin back out, gently squeeze it a bit tighter and reinstall. 2. Possibly some data signal in the vehicle. In a previous car I had OEM wiring running down both front door channels. Noise (but not alternator whine) running down driver's door, no noise running down passenger side door. 3. Really NO clue. I don't use it as my vehicle had it already built in. But did any signal power or ground wires differ from TV test to 930 test (other than leads to TV vice same leads to 930)? Just

Sending money in a few moments

Do you have one of the vehicles that has a metal film in the windshield? GPS can't see through them. Put the GPS puck outside the vehicle attached to a metal base (hood, roof, etc.), park with no roof or garage over you, and give the device maybe 10 minutes for the initialization to take. If it doesn't work then you have a bad GPS puck, bad wiring, or bad head unit.

1st re-check that the sub is "ON" in the head unit. 2nd check the gain on the amp. 3rd, I don't understand how you went from the sub RCA cables to speaker inputs on the amp. Do you mean you went to the RCA inputs of the amp, or that you went to speaker level inputs on the amp? If the latter, then that may well the amp is expecting a much larger signal. Run RCA to RCA. You could try moving the SWR/SWL RCA cables over to the rear speaker output RCA cables (make sure the sound isn't faded all the way forward) - if it works then it's in the head unit, if it doesn't then you still ha

It's been a while since I installed mine, but IIRC there are cables from Pioneer that come off the unit for power, front/rear speakers, etc. However, for the sub-woofer you have to run RCA cables all the way to plug directly into the unit - if you have the install manual they are labeled SWR and SWL (for sub-woofer left and sub-woofer right),

Nothing special about connecting, set the phone first to pair, then the unit and they found each other - pretty mindless actually. Sorry my Internet friend.

It sounds like a poor or perhaps wrong connection somewhere, presumably in the ground or in the constant power line. What kind of vehicle, perhaps that might help. I'm wondering if there is anything that can stay alive for a few days, then lose power in a sort of sleep mode - these days the brains in a car do "thinking" for us that I would prefer they didn't. I have the T-Mobile Galaxy S (Vibrant) and it works like a champ. I use steering wheel controls for volume, but not bluetooth - if you do that would be a connection to check. Best of luck, intermittent problems are absolutely t

AFAIK, or remember anyway, there is only one place the plug will fit. If looking at the rear of the unit, it is about middle vertically, almost all the way over on the left side.

As long as the dash panel above it isn't metal, no problem.

I have the GPS antenna to the side of the unit, but under the dash panel. In my case the dash panel is a thick vinyl (or whatever), which is pretty much transparent at the frequencies for which GPS operates, as is the glass windscreen unless there is a metal coating on/embedded in the glass.

Can't speak to the model you are asking about, but my iPod touch turns on/off with the unit. Also the Pioneer uses the digital to analog processing inside the iPod to produce sound, but uses the digital to analog processing inside the X930 for am SD or USB stick. Have no idea which one does the more accurate conversion.

See page 150 in the manual: orange means the unit "sees" the satellite and is using in computing your position, yellow means it sees the satellite, but is not using it in computing the position -- or at leas that's what I read the words to mean.

OP: What appears to be the entire factory service manual for your year is online at TTORA (Toyota Territory Off-Roaders Association). http://www.ncttora.com/fsm/index.html

You should keep the sub-woofer setting to off. If you don't it will cut out those frequencies and send them to the sub-woofer RCA cables that you aren't using. Regarding the rear speaker Sub W. button that is faded out, that has to do with using the High-level (speaker wires) off the head unit to directly drive either rear speakers or a sub-woofer (see Page 171/172 in operator's manual - at least that's where it's at in my copy). Since you use the RCA cables and an external amp the setting is of no use - I assume the head unit is sensing you don't have anything hooked up there and so

You need a wiring harness schematic for your specific vehicle - they are all different. Look for the wire that went to the OEM radio and turned on the lights for it - use that wire. You migh try finding the wiring colors over at the12volt.com

I'm standing in line (figuratively of course).

Excellent!

It (the vss wire) is not necessary to hook up. It helps with maintaining position when GPS drops off due to a tunnel, tall bldg etc. It may help with an Automatic Sound Leveling scheme (increase volume at higher speeds - don't know would never use such a thing if it's there). Regarding finding it, it varies by car. In my case (2011 Tacoma) there was a wire coming off an interior fuse block I was able to tap into and get the VSS signal.

If by yellow and green you mean the wires with tags from Pioneer saying mute and parking (respectively), then yes. And yes, it unlocks video and navigation functions while moving.

This answer probably doesn't help any, but I'll put it out there and maybe someone else can either fix it or tie it all together. I thought the USB/3.5mm plug set was for use with either the iPod (both required), or just the USB, or just the 3.5mm. Do you by any chance have both USB and 3.5mm hooked up at the same time? To "fix" the problem, I used a 3.5mm female socket to RCA male cables adapter and plugged that into the female RCA cables on the rear of the unit - this then is Aux1.

I bought mine about two months ago. And before I reworked the pin opening size, it exhibited exactly the same results (buttons fading out when moving just a few MPH).