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F90BT in 07 VW MK5 GTi... no AM radio signal


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I would just do it myself if I had the tools. So far after getting this radio I've opened my dash at least 10 times. Anyway take it for what you will but i was having the exact same problem in my 2008 Rabbit and this fixed it.

 

 

Also looking through the install manual on pioneers site for these units http://www.pioneerelectronics.com/StaticFiles/Manuals/Navigation/AVIC-F900BT_InstallationManual0520.pdf

 

I found something on the bottom right corner of page 6.

 

 

Be sure not to use this lead as the power

supply lead for the auto-antenna or anten-

na booster. Such connection could cause

excessive current drain and malfunction.

 

The above is copied straight from the manual.

 

If it is not an option for you to do this yourself I would show this to the install guy and make him fix it for free. This was his error not yours. You should not have to pay him to fix his own mistake.

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The warning say not to use it as a POWER SUPPLY lead. Connecting the blue or blue white outputs of the f900 to the antenna trigger is not the same as supplying power to the antenna. The antenna amplifier has it's own source of power coming from another source in the car. The lead going through the antenna simply triggers it on much like the remote input of an amplifier.

 

The installer did not make a mistake.

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the installer answered back to my email last night... here is what he commented:

 

Actually, now that I think of it, I would have connected it to the solid blue wire which is the antenna output. Makes sense since this is what we are supposed to do. The output however is the same for both the amp turn on and radio turn on so I don't see it making a difference.

 

i'm not very good at electrical work, and i don't want to mess with it on my own because i'm afraid that any damage i cause would affect the 2yr warranty on the unit. i have a tentative appointment scheduled for the upcoming saturday. i'm hoping to find good suggestions before then.

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The warning say not to use it as a POWER SUPPLY lead. Connecting the blue or blue white outputs of the f900 to the antenna trigger is not the same as supplying power to the antenna. The antenna amplifier has it's own source of power coming from another source in the car. The lead going through the antenna simply triggers it on much like the remote input of an amplifier.

 

The installer did not make a mistake.

 

I'm looking at the wiring diagram right now... No it doesn't, power is supplied by the radio through the antenna lead. Do some research before posting...

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Sorry gjas. Didn't mean to offend. I guess I figured my 18 years as a professional installer would qualify my response. Also w/ the R&D people at metra using a blue wire and saying to connect it to antenna output instead of red for accessory that they might know something too.

 

I guess since you've had to pull your dash apart ten times to make your stereo work makes you the expert. My bad.

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Sorry gjas. Didn't mean to offend. I guess I figured my 18 years as a professional installer would qualify my response. Also w/ the R&D people at metra using a blue wire and saying to connect it to antenna output instead of red for accessory that they might know something too.

 

I guess since you've had to pull your dash apart ten times to make your stereo work makes you the expert. My bad.

 

What I get tired of is people thinking because something is done one way for most installs that it should be done that way for every install. (then not admitting they are wrong when it doesn't work) Some head units put out more power over the antenna wire than others. (Metra can't test for every eventuality) With my older Pioneer unit blue wire to blue wire worked fine but with the my F700 it did not. So I pulled out my Bentley CD for my Rabbit examined the wiring diagram and came to the conclusion that since there is no power wire running to the amp that the only way to get power was over the antenna lead. The Pioneer manual specifically states to not power an antenna amp with the blue wire.

 

If this installer would not just dismiss it off hand I wouldn't be so annoyed. If he used simple logic: AM worked before the radio was installed + AM doesn't work after the install = he messed something up and needs to fix it.

 

I'm sorry if I came off harsh its not what I ment. I just really really hate when people are wrong and won't own up. I know if im wrong about his I would apologize and do what I could to help.

 

Thumper: What state do you live in? If your near me I could help you out.

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gjas, you can do the install yourself... get a harness and wire red to red, yellow to yellow, black to black, blue to blue... these are the most important to connect correctly (Once they are done you are 1/2 way there)

 

afterwards all you need to figure out is speakers...remember black strip is negative, no stripe is positive...

 

Blue stripe is remote, connect that (if needed) to antenna to give power.

 

As long as you connect yellow, black, red correctly... you will be ok.

 

Tools needed - Phillips, electrical tape, patience.

 

(there might be tools here and there you will need I cant be 100% sure, some cars need more work, some dont.)

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been to see the installer. he connected it to the ACC lead. now instead of either dead space or bursts of static, i get what i call "ghost whisperer" reception on my AM band... is this an improvement?

 

but things have now changed a bit. the strength/quality of both my AM/FM reception is being affected by the accessories in the car. i turn on the rear defogger and i get a faint buzzing sound. shift from D to R on my DSG transmission and the volume drops a notch.

 

is my car possessed?!?

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Thats odd... Neither of my VW's (Jetta and Rabbit) have this problem both with an F700 and the Metra Adapter. It sounds like a grounding problem. How exactly is radio wired into the VW's wiring?

 

not entirely sure. it's some kind of plug and play adapter, but i do not know the brand.

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I have this adapter in both of my cars http://enfigcarstereo.com/shopsite_sc/store/html/PAC_C2R_VW.html

It provides all the signals the radio needs (parking brake, reverse wire, etc.) without splicing into wires. If instead your installer went with the cheap/old school option of tapping into wires that could possibly create issues.

 

Has your unit been hardware bypassed? (parking brake does NOT need to be applied to access all menus and video playback)

 

Is it only accessories that affect the rear of the car messing with your reception? (ie. rear window defogger, reverse lights, rear windshield wiper. As opposed to the heated seats and heated washer nozzles/mirrors.)

 

Test every accessory thoroughly. There has to be something common between all the symptoms that makes your car perform differently than mine.

 

Also do your steering wheel controls work with the new radio?

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yes there is a bypass.

 

the heated options (including the rear defogger) do not appear to be affecting the unit. oddly enough the power accessories do not either, such as the windows and door locks or sunroof. what does cause issues are the hvac blower motor and wipers, and when the car is an any gear but park and drive (this is a DSG model).

 

the steering wheel functions no longer work after the install. i did not have the retrofit hardware required to make them work.

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