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New Z2 "bypass/back door" something to check


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Ok guys... DB you copied what I pasted into my post last night. The guy that sent this bypass to me ordered off of ebay. I saw he bought it and I emailed him and asked if it really worked. He then copied me what he bought and I posted. Kinda makes you mad? when you see that you work to help the cause and you get no credit.... long live the cause of breaking the New Z2

 

What? Are you talking about this one?

http://avic411.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=6317

 

If you are talking about something else, then please fill me in... cause if there is something else you are thinking of, then I missed it.

 

I saw that post. And I do thank you for getting the information and posting it here. Thank you for trying to share the info.

 

The big reason why I thanked Beachdoc for this and not you for this was that what he found was the first one that kept the GPS and VSS wire intact (at least that's what I first thought, I think the VSS wire might need to be disconnected all the time and the GPS antenna can be connected all the time). What you posted is a switch that you flip when you want to fake the unit into thinking that it's sitting still even when you are moving. What Beachdoc sent me (what he found) was a way to keep the GPS functional and get it unlocked.

 

Is it me, or were these 2 very different functions?

 

I'm all for giving credit where it's due, and if I missed something I apologize. If I glossed over your post and didn't understand it fully, I apologize.

 

If it doesn't make you mad and it just

makes you made when you see that you work to help the cause and you get no credit....

Then I'm sorry I made you made. :)

 

 

long live the cause of breaking the New Z2

 

I agree... long live the bypass!

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No I am cool... yea I saw the made part I was like oh this is going to look good...

 

You do know you can edit posts after you post them? Top right of the post is an "edit" button. You can fix things. Of course now that I have immortalized it in mine, you can't get rid of it totally. :P

 

No you actually pulled it from my post I put this is what the guy emailed me...

 

This one?

http://avic411.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=6317&start=5

I, nor beachdoc seem to have pulled anything from this one. Or were you thinking of a different post.

 

no big deal... the goal is to break the Z2 so that users can use it 100% unrestricted......

 

Well, it's kind of a big deal. I don't like getting accused of not giving someone credit where it's due and I would. Even if you are not pissed at it any more. I either missed a different post or you are mistakenly thinking that the one I liked to in this post from you is like the one I posted at the top of this thread. It's why whtcrxghst replied like he did.

 

What you posted is to switch out the GPS and VSS wires. And while Beachdoc did have 1/3 of what you posted (a switch on the parking brake wire), by itself it's significant cause that does not work on the Z1 and it only works like that on the Z2. What he found is to keep the navigation active while unlocking the system. What you posted is to trick the Z2 into thinking it's stopped while it's moving.

 

I thought it was a very big difference.

 

Or am I missing something?

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today i did all again and it lasted a little longer about 4 miles to be exact but low and behold back came the parking break screen and out went vid and nav controls.is anyone else having the same problem

 

vss wire connected or disconnected? mine is connected and same issue as you state occurs

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today i did all again and it lasted a little longer about 4 miles to be exact but low and behold back came the parking break screen and out went vid and nav controls.is anyone else having the same problem

 

I am having this problem too. When I first tried this bypass I disconnected the VSS but did not reset the calibration and it worked for a couple miles, I was really excited and I thought I had it but then I got the error. After that I stopped and reset the calibration and did the bypass again, now I get the error in less than a mile! I came in to read this thread again and it seems like I am following the instructions properly, so I am going to try a couple more times right now.

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Ok, I have tried it a few times and a few different ways but I can't get it to work. Please help me find what I am doing wrong:

 

I reset everything to default and reset my calibration.

 

I go to the hardware connection status screen, and check the p brake is on when I flip the switch.

 

I reset the unit, let it reboot and put in a dvd. I get the popup messages for the maps and the dvd and i press ok, and start playing the dvd for min 30 seconds.

 

I turn my truck off, and open the door to kill the radio, then I turn off the p brake switch and wait 1 minute.

 

I start the truck and let the unit boot, once again I get the pop up screen for the dvd and I press ok. The dvd automatically plays from it's last position and I get sound.

 

Now I flip the p brake switch and I get video. I have done this step while parked and while moving >25. It only lasts a few minutes before I end up with the parking break error message.

 

Anyone see what I did wrong? Probably something stupid.

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It sounds like you're doing what I did but I would try the following....

 

1) Before you reset the unit, go under settings and restore factory defaults, and go under 3D calibration - click on each of the three lower settings - distance, etc. and choose the option to reset all of those.

 

2) Reset the unit as you did.

 

3) I think a critical screen that I got that no one is mentioning is after you reset the unit and boot it up...you should see a screen stating the VSS is NOT detected or connected. This is good. This makes sure the VSS was reset.

 

3) Drive your truck with the e-brake OFF and watch the 3D calibration screen. Make sure you don't get a parking brake error during this period...that would indicate something wrong with the toggle or ground. i.e., it should be functioning like it supposed to be properly connected without the VSS.

 

4) Let it calibrate your GPS antenna. It will change from learning....initializing sensors to learning....simple hybrid.

 

5) Turn off the truck and let it sit for 30 sec. or so.

 

6) Restart the truck with e-brake off. Start the DVD. Hear the sound. Drive above 25 mph then hit the e-brake ON for the first time.

 

Let us know if that makes a difference.

 

Thanks.

 

Beachdoc

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Beachdoc, thanks for the input. I actually did reset everything one by one on the calibration screen. I am not getting the screen you mention during reset saying the VSS is not connected. Are you sure your VSS wire isn't grounded? I previously had the VSS working on my truck but I disconnected it today when I tried this bypass. If I go the the connection status page it just shows the speed pulse as 0. Sounds like this is the clue I need to work with.

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I just put a switch on my vss wire...just in case this didnt work...

 

I reset all the learning items 1st....as stated above...thne make sue the vss is off...and follow the instructions..

 

seems to work for me...I didnt go far yet, my nav didnt know I was moving without the vss on....but it worked ...

 

About to go test it for a 20 mile drive...wish me luck :roll:

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I can't be sure my VSS isn't grounded...I had one of my friends install mine. I can ask him though. You can try a switch in case one works vs. the other. I would try without the bypass driving to get it calibrated and make sure you don't get the e-brake error. If you do, something else electrical is causing the problem. Just my take.

 

I sure wish we could figure out why Nissan and I got it to work and others are having problems with the e-brake error popping up. It seems everyone is having it within 10 miles or so. Drive without for 10 miles, the GPS should calibrate then try the bypass. That's all I can think of now.

 

I'd be glad to post some pics of my screens, speedometer, 3D calibration screen, NAV screen, dynamics screen, etc. if anyone thinks that may help find a diff. from my unit and theirs.

 

Another last thought would be a poll of those trying the bypass, who grounds the switch to the chassis vs. the harness? Even the slightest voltage diff could be the problem in the unit detecting the switch. We can also try metering the switch to ground and see if there are diffs.

 

Beachdoc

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Beachdoc, thanks again for the input. I reset my unit again and decided that I will drive a while before I try the bypass. I think I might eventually get the VSS wire message and I will try the bypass again after that. My guess is that everyone who is having a problem has had their VSS connected in the past. I am sure that sometime during the new calibration process I will get the popup for the VSS wire and after that it will work fine.

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Even the slightest voltage diff could be the problem in the unit detecting the switch. We can also try metering the switch to ground and see if there are diffs.

 

I highly doubt there is enough resistance to create a noticeable voltage differential between users. I can't remember what I measured but I think there is a 1 meg pullup on the parking brake (it might have been 100K). It was large. For a noticeable voltage difference it would need to be 5% of that number with would be 5K if it was the smaller resistance. And even that makes .5V. I would not think focusing on voltage differences between people who grounded wires would be fruitful.

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