superjet

It is a diversity antenna set up, your stock radio selects between the two and looks for best reception. 99.9 percent of aftermarket radios do not have this feature. Just use the larger one.

Sure sounds like an antenna issue. Did you use your old one from the Z1?

You usually have to pay extra for rear defost to activate with remote start.

Stop struggling people. There is a locking tab on the connector. Pull this tab up slightly, and the pins pull right out. viewtopic.php?f=57&t=27175

Good luck with Paypal. I'm trying to deal with them now, and it ain't easy.

I realize you can't integrate an AVIC, but have any of you iPhone users seen this? http://www.viper.com/SmartStart/

Ditch the Audi instead.

The resistor is only needed on Ford's when you get a thump or pop when the amp turns on and off. If you are getting it all the time, search "pioneer pico fuse".

The pioneer tuner is much better build quality, and will display song and artist at the same time. The terk/Audiovox only shows one.

Anyone know of an alternative cable instead of the CD-IU50V?

A p-bus adaptor will not work for an aux input on any of the new Pioneer video units.

On this truck, either use a module or run a wire to brown at one of the parking lights.

Yeah, by the description provided in the bypass thread, your bending part of the metal up, and may not lock back in right. The plastic tab described is how it was designed, with no ill effects. Someone should take some pics and post up a sticky. Mines already installed.

There is a locking tab that goes all the way across the the plug, bottom or top, I don't remember. I just simply lifted that up with a pick tool, and the wire pulled right out. Snap the locking tab back into place, and the pin slides right the pin position next to it.

That sucks. Does it do it with no SD, USB or iPod connected?

Nav screen- Menu - Eject SD bottom of the screen

Mine started up the same way. The deck only needs to boot up is when it is reset, same with the OK button. If you want to reboot the deck without losing audio settings, hit the Eject SD button.

Mine was grounded for over a month, well more than 200 miles. It works just fine. I drive about 60 miles round trip a day just for work alone.There is also no calibration option/settings on the U310, just a very simple deck for the price. It is not a portable nav either, there is no GPS antenna built into the detachable face. You can power it up independently to bring it in the house to hook up to avic feeds, or search addresses and plan routes in the house instead of sitting in the car. Just pulled it out yesterday for a z110, which most definetly needs the relocation of the mute wire.

This is a pretty popular myth out there. No, they don't fry BCM's and switches, they do fry out if the wire gets shorted out, or hooked up to 12 volts. The wire in the factory wiring behind the deck is often unfused after the dimmer switch. That usually happens after a theft job, or installation related. Sometimes a DIY guy or an inexperienced installer will get the urge to tie org/blk and org/wht together in their aftermarket harness.

It would help by telling us what interface you used. Should have been a gmos-04 from metra or similar. Denali and Cadillacs have a digital amp turn on, versus a standard Yukon. You do not cut the rca's off and run speaker level into it, the factory deck not having preout rca's has nothing to do with it. Get the proper interface, and follow the directions.

You just need to buy the appropriate kit, not need to buy the cage. Check with Scosche or Metra.

Other way around, yellow is constant.

I would suggest you power the swi-ps red acc to keysense, powering up just before the deck.

As with any in dash navigation systems, including OEM, you cannot search adresses, type them in, enter bluetooth contacts, pair phones, ect unless the vehicle is parked.

The only time I have ever seen a line output damged to where there is no sound at all is from a bad amp or installation issue sending voltage back up the rca line. There is the pico fuse issue, but you would still get sound, and that would again be caused by an installation issue or a bad amp. Defective pin in the harness maybe? I take it you have aftermarket amps running everything and it's not the stock subwoofer? If so, a line output converter would get you by untill your new deck arrived. I would consider bringing it to a different shop. Not knowing which ipod cable the deck takes would