tickerguy

No problem -- they can refund my money and everyone else so-affected or they can fix it right now -- one zero-cost (to them) option to do so is to release the original firmware files so they can be reloaded. Pioneer destroyed a significant part of the value of my lawfully-owned product.

Breaking USB-attached storage functionality in this fashion is utterly outrageous -- it ought to put the company out of the car audio business if they do not fix it IMMEDIATELY. I will note that there are people threatening to SUE Mazda over this in their stock head unit in the "6" models. The economic value of my 4000 has been destroyed this morning. I am doing everything I can to make sure everyone knows about this, including sending it out in public where the ~300,000+ monthly readers I have can see it and will never, ever buy another Pioneer product of any sort unless it is immedia

Where's my 1.02 firmware -- I want it back NOW! DAMN YOU PIONEER. DAMN YOU STRAIGHT TO HELL. Yeah, I'd like CarPlay. But NOT at the expense of what they did. If you have a USB-attached storage device (e.g. a SSD) and you update to 1.06 the unit will no longer remember where it was when the car is shut down, and will start playing at the first song on the device when you turn the car back on. This is a major "screw you" -- they broke the product. DO NOT UPDATE UNLESS YOU ARE WILLING TO LOSE YOUR USB FUNCTIONALITY!

Make sure the fan's airflow is unobstructed in the back of the unit. If it is, check it and make sure it works.

The light at the end of the tunnel? It's a train.

Lack of lossless support is a deal-breaker for me; I looked closely at the Kenwood and JVC models before buying the NEX and IMHO both were severely lacking and not just in that regard (no support) either. Neither of them properly handled a SSD full of music, for example, when it came to sort order and similar things.

I reformatted my SSD to Fat32 because I wanted to be able to use DirSorter to resolve the issue that the head unit has with missing one line of code in the directory display routine -- the one that sorts the returned directory list. The software dude (or dudette) at Pioneer who left that out ought to be strung up by their genitals, but it is what it is and you can resolve it with a FAT32 formatted partition, so that's what I did.

I am not aware of a Mac application like EAC; there are many that will make FLAC files, but EAC has access to a database and is able to verify (in most cases) that the rip was accurate at the bit level from the original CD media. It also has the ability to access both forward error correction (if your drive supports it) and "simple" CRC-style retries if not. Some people cannot hear the difference between a moderately high bit-rate MP3 and a FLAC file. I can and the difference is not small, provided the equipment I'm listening to it on is of sufficient quality (both my near-field setup on

It's very difficult to get decent return-wave isolation with a car door. You can certainly do better than the factory in most cases (I've pulled my door cards and done quite the number on them in my Mazda) but then you have the second problem that comes up which is that the volume of the cavity is almost-certainly going to be wrong for the driver, and that will produce some nasty peaks in the mid-bass. This is one of the reasons for excessive "boominess"; some people like that (the old "louder is better" thing) but I'm not one of them. Quality over quantity please! The easiest soluti

The manual is wrong. However -- there IS a maximum, it's just not what the book says it is..... "Normal SD" (e.g. ~720x480, etc) resolution works.

That sounds like an iPhone bluetooth stack issue. I use this feature all the time and if I am listening to bluetooth-streamed audio off my phone and turn the car off it pauses the phone's media player. When I turn the car back on it is still in bluetooth mode, it re-connects and resume playing automatically from where it left off. In addition my steering wheel controls for track forward/back work as well. I have a BlackBerry Z10. Does the track and artist name along with the time bar come up on your unit when playing off the iPhone? If not then control channel support is not the

Very large album art will not scale and will simply be ignored. I had a couple of albums with 1k-x-1k images (high-res covers) and they didn't come up despite being there. 600x600 and smaller appears to be ok; anything larger than 200x200 is likely more than the unit actually needs given the resolution available.

The NEX units want the album art attached in the metadata for each file; it will not look in the folder for files with "jpg" extension if the metadata is not there. Modern rippers add the album art as a tag -- if yours does not it's broken. EAC (Exact Audio Copy) has done it for a very long time, and so do most others. You can use something like "Mp3tag" to fix the files using the art file in the directory.

What has probably happened is that the drive is being re-indexed, and it may not actually be hung. The head unit doesn't think it's a "new" drive because the serial number hasn't changed on the volume. I'd either let it sit (it MAY eventually sort itself out) or do the organization on your PC (e.g. renaming of the file names, etc) and then format and re-copy the data onto the SSD.

If you plug it into your computer is the format undamaged? I have an artist->album->songs structure on my SSD without problems. Check it on your computer; my guess is that Media Monkey has made a hash out of the directory structure on the media.

The unit has to be OFF before starting or it won't allow you to select the autoeq mode. Start at the front of the instructions for it.

ALAC is a hack that Apple put into place in the face of a perfectly good codec that was (1) free and (2) lossless, including a public reference implementation. They tried to force licensing and proprietary uptake of it for close to 10 years, abandoning that model only after it failed to gain traction. This is their business model and has been repeated time and time again. Pioneer adopted (not surprisingly) the freely available, with reference implementation, industry standard for lossless music files. That a minority of people who bought a product that was known to come with a walled ga

Uh, no, it's not. Indeed, most of what is made available has no conceivable diagnostic purpose. Further, the entire premise of an encrypted device (if you've enabled encryption) is that the locus of authorization never leaves that device. (I've done this sort of thing -- security and forensics -- for more two decades. You're preaching BS at a bishop here..) And finally, I don't care for the so-called "security model" on Android either, having ported Android to two different devices and thus having quite-intimate knowledge of its security model on both an operating system and applica

Home button, select OFF. Power is still on, however. The presence of the rear-view camera capability precludes the power being actually "off" when the ignition is on (it wouldn't work otherwise.)

Apple no longer holds a majority of the market share; in fact, it's about a third on phones now, down almost 10% y/o/y. The "we're the fanboi and tweeny must-have" game is fading, as fads always do. Apple has always strove to lock you into their accessories and "other things" dating back to the original Macs. In the portable device arena they started that crap with their "custom" implementation of the "fast" charger USB protocol (there already was an industry standard -- shorted data pins; Apple decided that a voltage divider across them was what they'd use) which is why you now can't

FLAC is an open specification and works (well); Apple, as they did with USB charging, is playing games (again) when there was utterly no reason to do so. They have a minority of the device market at present and shrinking; they're not exactly in a place where they dictate terms.

I agree on the playlists and gapless playback, but if Apple demands a royalty for ALAC, I say Pioneer should respond "Bite Me!"

I have a 120Gb SSD (Vertex II) that works great. It's in an external USB enclosure, self-powered off the bus.

BTW the reason for my somewhat-flippant response is that I've already explained, in pretty-meticulous detail, exactly why this is a bad idea several times on this forum yet people don't read before they post -- or worse, think that somehow the answer will change the more times you ask the same question.....

Don't have to believe me if you don't want to; I've looked into the controller logic on these cards in some detail. Just don't put anything on the card you don't want to lose without warning.