Termist

Yikes. Look at the price tag. oh NM, same as the previous one.

Basically for those of you guys who are too damn lazy, ignorant, and/or illiterate to read... Pioneer will replace your RIBBON for FREE! It doesn't even have to be defective when you send it in.

January 3, 2007 Dear Valued Customer: Re: Upgraded Flex-Cable for Flip Screen in Navigation Models AVIC-N1 and AVIC-N2 We would like to inform you of a potential service issue with Pioneer's AVIC-N1 and AVIC-N2, inform you of our plans to resolve this service issue, and ask for your help in notifying consumers. If a consumer is not experiencing any issues currently, there is no need for the consumer to take immediate action because the one-time fix to resolve the service issue will be available if an AVIC-N1 and AVIC-N2 later experiences the service issue. Importantly, the se

IMO seems like the forum's display is a little too narrow. At least that's how it appears when you click on "view new posts".

Yup, it's not needed. But it's nice to have.

I believe recondition units have N1 cases to prevent from easy-access tampering. Probably have to do what N1 guys do, and disassemble everything to get to the mainboard.

It's possible, but don't remember off the top of my head. Just go to the settings menu, it should be in there.

Retail shops will NOT bypass your unit if it will void the warranty. In your case, it will void warranty.

I believe he's right. When I used to do installs, you can not run more than 4 channels worth of speakers on a headunit. You'll need an/few amplifiers to make use of all your speakers. As for the faceplate, I'm sure you'll have to have something fabbed up as well.

AHHHHHHH Ok, I get it. Basically you're not even close to getting the thing totally apart. You have to pry it open once you get all the screw out. Watch out for the ribbon though. Get a small flat head and start carefully prying the base apart.

haha I just noticed I had a huge grammar error myself But I'm glad everything is clear.

Ok, your wording doesn't make sense. N1 with soldered points, will allow you to have all access to N2 and N3 software while driving. But since it's still an N1 with N1 software, the chances of it being bypassed at the circuit board is very slim. To bypass an N1 with N1 software, you just ground the brake. BUT this does not apply to N1 with N2 or N3 software.

How about posting a picture?

I have an N2 bottom bored if you'd like to buy one . As far as removing the bottom plate, search for "N1 Bypass", it'd be listed on there.

No point in soildering the circuit board, if you don't have the N2 or N3 software. Because alls you have to do is just ground the parking-brake wire. But, since it's already soldered, you can upgrade to the N3 sofware without running into any lockouts.

Mine is off by 150 yards or so. Even when I "define" the location or whatever, it just readjust to where it was before you adjusted it.

Mine does this to every destination I enter.

seems like we need more mods...

I may have "toasted" my preouts while doing the N1 bypass. So, I'm not sure if it'll be possible to use them anymore. You're absolutely right. I'm running medium grade RCA cables, that I bought from Circuit City. Eventually when the time comes, I'll run a Symbilink Balanced Line Transmitter. I've heard it's susposed to make a world of a difference. Especially with my ads components. I'll find out Friday, and will let you guys know.

Ok. IS there a huge difference between high level and low level inputs? I don't know for sure yet, but I just bought new RCA harness for my N1. Hoping it'll cure the malfunction I'm having. So, would it be okay to run my Zapco amps on high level inputs? TIA.

If you want to get rid of the texture, carefully sand it with 320 grit and lightly polish it out with rubbing compound.

Here you go, hope this helps. [img]http://www.vinylwurkz.com/avicn1plug.jpg[/img]

I don't have a camera at the moment. But it's the RCA connector that plugs right above the brain's data cable on the N1.

I did the N1 bypass today, and it works great. Then I noticed my front and rear left channels are cutting in and out. But they stay off more then then stay on. It almost sounds like it's grounding out. I took apart the N1 headunit, and rechecked all the screws. When I switched RCAS L-R and R-L then my left channel will work fine. I have a Zapco 4ch Reference amp, so that eliminated that problem. When I removed the head unit, the wires were really tight pulling the head unit out of the din hole. You guys think there's a possiblity that the wires may have torn on the inside of the insulatio