joegr

I feel your pain. I can't imagine how to make it any clearer than it already is.

20 pages exist in this thread only because people won't read the first three or four posts. Those first few cover it all. Your statement of "U cannot permanently ground the parking brake wire" is quite incorrect. To do the bypass, you must ground the parking brake sense wire permanently. After that, you must move the mute wire (or use another wire) to the bypass location and then ground that permanently too. Most of the twenty pages of this thread are posts from people who have damaged the pin on the mute wire when they moved it, and then refused to believe that was the problem.

I posted a circuit to cure this very problem a year or three back. I don't recall which thread it was in.

100% agreement

You move the pin of the mute wire to the new location. You ground the moved mute wire instead of connecting it to anything else. You ground the parking brake sense wire instead of connecting it to the parking brake switch. This is a really simple thing that you guys keep trying to make very complicated... It's all in the first few posts of this thread.

The third post says "I did this and grounded the newly relocated mute wire and the parking brake wire too. Semms to be working fine. Thanks AVIC411."

You're looking at the wrong connector. The connector you want plugs directly into the back of the AVIC. Go re-read the start of this thread.

Yes, leave the wire from the PAC unconnected and ground the parking brake wire from the AVIC. This has been covered at least a few times in the forums. You also do have a mute wire issue. That's why you're getting the parking brake error. You only get that error if the mute wire has not been moved to the correct location and then grounded. Did you move it to the proper slot in the connector to the AVIC? If so, then you damaged the pin in the process and it is not making contact with the AVIC. Pull it out and fix it.

It's most likely to be a problem with the cable that plugs into the iPOD. If you search this forum, you'll find that it's not an uncommon issue. The software suggestion is nonsense.

You may need a CAN bus adapter that has a switched accessory power output.

Why don't you try reading a little better/closer? It clearly says to connect the moved mute wire to ground.

I have done all this. I took my radio out 5 times to recheck all connections. It works, but when I start driving, I get the p brake lead message or w/e it is and then half my settings are gone and song labels don't show and stuff and until I come to a stop, everything is enabled. This leads me to believe that my unit requires both grounding and hacking the software. I have NO idea how to do this, so can someone PLEASE tell me how to hack my radio step by step, and not just say "data.zip" Like everyone else who has had this problem, and swore up and down that they did it all right, you have a

Did you not read the FAQs or any of the other posts? Even with the software bypass, you still have to disconnect the parking brake sense wire and then ground it.

No. And no to all the other guesses. The fifth pin on the connector in the AVIC is for the shield in the USB cable. All USB cables have this, and all USB connectors are really 5 pin. The 5th pin (or connection) is the metal hood around the connector. It's an electrical connection just like the four pins on the inside.

No wireless remote will work with the F series.

Wrong!

Wow, your math is way, way off. A 700 Amp battery refers to Cold Cranking Amps. It is a power rating, not an energy rating. It just means that the battery can put out 700 Amps for a few seconds, not an hour. The rating that you need to calculate from is the reserve rating. Most car/truck batteries have a reserve rating of 25 Amp-hours. So, most would be completely drained by a 0.195 A load in 128 hours. This means that it probably couldn't start the truck after only 64 hours or less. It sounds like the OP's is going dead quicker than that now, but I would expect that. Every time the b

This means (without any doubt) that you do not have the power ground wire from the AVIC connected to the car's ground. Instead, the only ground to the AVIC is now coming from the shield of the antenna cable. This is bad. Please go correct your wiring. If you have the ground wrong, then there is no telling what else you have wired wrong.

That sounds a lot like incorrect grounding issues. First verify that you have a really good solid ground from the car to the AVIC.

Dynamic Volume, it's in the sound settings Yeah, but that only works for the nav announcements.

1. 10 Amps is good. A 5A slow blow might be better. 2. All current is pulled from the yellow wire. The red wire is just a signal wire. 3.Yes, no heat sinks needed. 4. They won't charge while the engine is off because the car battery voltage (without the alternator running) will be less than the NiCd voltage. 5. Not needed, they won't be charging then anyway. 6. It would be better to add a timing circuit. Something simple based on a 555 timer IC should be fine.

1. I don't know. 2. Probably. I would expect them to last about three years. 3. No. Normal battery voltage will be too low to cause current to flow to the aux battery pack while the engine is off. 4. Yes, that will probably work. You may need to adjust the value of the current limit resistor, or add one more cell to the battery pack if you do this.

You have done the hardware bypass. There is no need to do the software bypass at all. You are good to go without it.

I believe that pin 8 is the bypass location, not pin 2.

Search, or read the FAQ. (It in the first page even.) viewtopic.php?f=34&t=18977