RonS

The problem is finding extra pins that are compatible with the connector. They aren't sold at Radio Shack. And even if you can find a vendor, you can't just buy a couple. I think you needed to buy in bulk. One member was selling wires from an extra harness. I guess you could buy one and could part-it out. The wire color doesn't matter. You could sell all the pin/wires over time - but would it gross enough to pay the cost and justify the effort?

Yah, I noticed that. DNA evidence!!!

Yes, and that is the recommended way it you have an external system like OnStar.

Strange, mine is mounted under the hood (actually under the windshield-wiper plastic cowling). I attached the magnet on the wiper motor. It seemed it didn't matter much where I put it, so I chose to hide it.

Try here. http://www.the12volt.com/ It is the same info that is needed to install cruise control. They don't have your yr/model listed, but maybe a different yr will be the same. Or, post a message requesting help on finding the VSS. Good luck.

Here is what I meant to say (emphasis added):

VSS is really not necessary - it just improves dead reckoning. Is your position on the NAV plot still messed-up? Still doing donuts? That is the biggest issue. Does the 3D calibration screen turn when your vehicle turns? If that stuff isn't working then yes, it's time for service. It sounded like even when the GPS knew where your location was, it didn't know what direction your vehicle was heading (or orientated). That sounds like internal sensors. So VSS might be part of a whole bunch of things that aren't working.

Harvey, I am not a complete novice at circuitry, but I'm trying to draw a schematic of this and my head is starting to hurt. It seemed so simple in your inital post, but now I'm confused. Mainly, the relay you used is DPDT, which has 6 contacts (not counting the 2 for the coil). I downloaded the spec sheet for it. What I came up with relys on two assumptions I'd like you to verify: 1. You only use one side of the DPDT (a DPDT is essentially two SPDTs) - so could I use a SPDT? 2. Assuming you only needed a SPDT, which contact contacts are used? I'm guessing Common (out to the HU RED)

Are you kidding? With no information other than "I try like 4times not working", we're supposed to figure out what you did wrong? You need to go back and read - 1st the instructions, then all the posts. The instructions are correct, so you did something wrong or you mis-interpretted them. If you have a specific question about any step, ask. And once you figure out your problem, post the solution so others can learn.

Excellent, sounds like just the solution I was looking for. Can you give a detailed parts list (RS part #s would be great!). It sounds like a fairly simple circuit, but a diagram would be great. I'm sure many people here would appreciate it.

Just to let you know, the VSS is a pulse. It is different from vehicle to vehicle, and I doubt you will have a sensitive enough voltmeter to trigger the current reading. I couldn't quickly find any standards (like IEEE) for VSS, but I'd bet there is one - defacto at least. I don't know what marks the pulse (polarity/voltage threshold...). BTW, are you sure it ever worked? The turning/rotation issue could be caused by other things. There is an internal gyro/sensor that only works correctly if the HU is mounted at an angle less than 30 degrees from horizontal and within 5 degrees left/right

Have you met Mr Google? http://www.canbuskit.com/what.php

Maybe try a reset before tearing things apart. There is a way to reset some of the sensors. In NAVI Settings/3D Calibration. Reset everything then drive around for a few miles. If that doesn't work, try a factory reset. You'll loose your settings, but that isn't so bad.

VSS is more for dead-reckoning. If your GPS is good, it isn't necessary (but if it worked before and now doesn't, then you likely have a wiring problem). How is your GPS signal strength? Go to Settings/Navi Settings/Connection Status. The line GPS Antenna should say "OK", if the signal is good. The number of bars indicate the strength. The numbers to the right of the orange icon indicates how many satelites are being used to calculate your position - should be > 2. The number to the right of the yellow icon indicate satellites detected but which cannot be used. If reception is poor,

Sounds like either you don't have the Z120 yet, or you have it installed and don't have the installation manual. It will probably answer lots of questions. Is is on the Pioneer web site: Linky

Some actually prefer the Z110 ipod interface for its simplicity. So if you really liked it, find a used Z110. But if the only choice is between the Z120 & Z130, go with the Z130. It has the same look & feel as the Z120, adds new features, some say the BT is fixed, and it is $100 cheaper. No brainer.

Yes, it has RCA sub line-outs (2). The HU Sub section has a Low Pass Filter, phase, and gain adjustments.

Sorry, I didn't realize you had a Z130. Apparently Staging went away and was replaced with Sonic Center Control. I don't have a Z130, but looking at the Z130 manual, it doesnt seem to do antything except adjust a left/right time delay. I really didn't think this wa your problem anyway. But I see from your picture, you have HPF @ 100Hz. Try setting that to OFF. If your Sub is OFF and with HPF set so high, you would be loosing a lot of your low end sound. As for your original issue (sub not being controlled or shutting down - right?), it still sounds like wiring issue. But first, to be

I hope you meant the yellow/black wire (mute). Yellow is the +12v always hot.

I studdered. Duplicate. Deleted.

Thanks for posting your solution. You'd be suprised how many people have similar problems. Hardly any ever say what they did to get by it. Those who never had any issues, have no clue on how to proceed except "try again. Try a different SD...". We kind of get tired of repeating the same advice. BTW, the back of the manual says 16GB SD max. So odds are that you are out-of-luck using that 32 gigger for MP3s or vids. But give it a try, you might get lucky.

No.

Settings/AV Sound Settings/Staging. Try setting Staging to OFF. Staging allows you to create a surround/multi-dimensional effect, some of which is through adjusting the timing and fade of the rear channels. For some reason, if you turn on staging, it disables the HPF (which has nothing to do with the sub). If you then go back up one screen and enable HPF, it disables Staging. (without warning). Oh, I was wrong before about the sub amp switching off if you set Sub Woofer to OFF. The Blue/White wire is a trigger to turn on anything that you want ON when the HU is on. It is not toggled b

Doesn't sound like you've used other built-in NAVs (including factory). AFAIK, they all lock you out from making changes unless you are stopped. At least with this unit, there is a well known and documented bypass. Sounds like you didn't do any research b4 buying. I personally have no problems with the sound quality/equalizer or NAV. It isn't the most functional NAVout there, but is issn't the worst wither. My wife thinks it is much better that the factory one in her Mazda (which has no known bypass hack). I wish I was in the market for another one at this time. I'd buy yours - althoug

This is a general comment not directed at any deal in particular. I believe the Pioneer manufacturer's warranty only applies if bought through a factory authorized dealer. some non-authorized sellers (like on ebay) include their own one yr warranty, but that could be risky - they might go under or disappear. So buyer be ware. Note: the inclusion of warranty cards by itself does not imply that the factory will honor the warranty if bought through back-channels. Always keep your proof of purchase. I'll also add that there is nothing wrong with buying those units. I myself did and ha