RonS

Just a guess, but try a full (factory) reset of your unit. This 2.003 update should not affect your video. BTW, you did have a Z120, or an updated Z110 -> Z120, right?

Nothing to do with syncing the phone. And we are talking about control via the HU, right? Just want to be sure we are talking about the same issue. BTW, it requires AVRCP 1.3 or higher. Simply google "AVRCP android" and you will see lots of complaints about lack of support for ID3 tags and playback control. Even in Gingerbread. And it is not a hardware issue. I have an HTC HD2, which originally came with WM6.5. It worked fine for AVRCP (although, being WM, it had lots of other issues). I have tried dozens of ports of Android, all > 2.0. None has worked correctly re. BT ID tags or contro

Android phones work fine. Contacts transfer, voice dialing, streaming audio. The built-in Pandora app only works with iPhones, but you can stream the audio over BT. The only Android issue I am aware of is the inability to display MP3 tags and control the playback from the AVIC. However, this is an Android problem, not the HU. Apparently current Android releaes do not support AVRCP (neither does iPhone). It works find on Windows 6.5 and 7 phones.

This is what I meant. Set the sub amp LPF to it's highest setting - say 180 for example. So it will emit all frequencies below (lower than) 180Hz. BTW, mine also has a setting for the low end cutt-off frequency, which I set to the lowest (20Hz). If the sub driver can't handle that low - I can always bump it up. But this isn't necessary. On the AVIC, go to AV Sound/Sound Stage and turn it OFF (or it disables HPF). Then go AV Sound Settings/Sub Woofer to set the REAL LPF value you want. Let's say 120. Only frequencies below that value will be sent to the sub amp (therefore, as long as your

Why is this tread in "Hacks/Mods". Seems like it belongs in "Problems/Troubleshooting".

OK, you said your SD had 1 file in the previous post. I assume ShortFuse's patched files are already in the correct directories in your C:\update folder?

Hmmmm, just from memory, but that doesn't sound like the instructions. Should be the full 1.001 Pioneer update directories with ShortFuse patched files overwritting existing files. BTW, Shortfuse's patch can be done after the 1.001 update because he changed his version to 1.002 (I think). So it will overwrite 1.001. Update: Just checked the ShortFuse Readme.txt: -Download the v1.001 update from Pioneer. -Replace \AVICZ110\EU090APL.VER and \AVICZ110\APL\RenewalIFLib.dll with the files included. -Copy the AVICZ110 folder with the patched files to the root of an SD card. -Insert the S

Does the noise increase with the volume or does it remain fixed? Does it vary with the engine speed? How about with the engine off? Do you get any noise at all when playing music from SD or CD? If it is only from the iPod source, make sure the CD-IU51V cable isn't routed near any wires that could induce noise. Also check the USB dongle that goes to the back of the HU (assuming the Z130 is like the Z110/120). The audio is only in the mini-plug cable, not the actual USB wiring. So it is not digital. If you also get noise from SD/CD, it might be a ground issue. Try a direct ground from

I don't know what you expected. The Z1x00 resolution (800x480) isn't much higher resolution than an old Standard Definition TV and nowhere near the number of pixels of even "enhanced" definition DTV (1280x720), let alone real HD (1920x1024). Expect about the quality you'd get playing a DVD on your old CRT TV. I tried a few DVDs on mine just now. OK, if I bought this unit to watch movies, I'd be disappointed. But is wasn't too bad. I found it varied from DVD to DVD. It looked better on ones that weren't extremely wide-screen. I think that is because even though it is a 16x9 display, the p

I set the amp LPF to the highest and gain to a setting higher than I would ever use, and use the HU to adjust the filters. I also have a remote pot to fine-tune the gain. My amp is under the passenger seat, so it isn't possible to adjust it on the road.

Amarillo6oh, Thanks for the details and the www.the12volt.com reference source. Unfortunately, the info for my car ('10 Porsche Cayman) is missing. Closest is '04 Boxster, which doesn't even have Alarm/Remote Start info. The most recent with Alarm/Remote info is '99. Porsche has a lot of common systems across all models, but a lot has changed since '99. Also, it ('99) says Ignitiion is Black. Does that sound right? I thought black was more-or-less universally -12v. One odd thing about modern Porsches, there is no ACC position. ACC is on whenever the key is inserted. There is an ignition

Just to be clear, it is not BT quality that is the problem. It is the external mic and/or the HU that has quality problems. BT works just fine as far as passing audio and data between the HU and a BT device. Of course, you notice it most of the time when callers can't hear you clearly. Or you get poor voice recognition with VR commands.

This might be a good alternative. It is for the CK3100, but I doubt there is much difference. http://www.autotoys.com/x/product.php?productid=19257

If you are not having any BT pairing issues, yeah, sounds like the mic wire. Its hard to tell if the shield/ground is bad by looking at it. I know it doesn't take much to destroy the cable. Even a pinch when tucking the wire behind trim can do it. Before you buy a new one (unless you are just looking for an excuse to get a better one), make sure it is plugged-in to the correct jack on the HU, although the only other one it could possible fit is the wired remote jack. And make sure it is fully inserted. If that's all OK, then time to replace the mic.

It is a way to allow an external device to mute the audio. I think OnStar would be a primary use for it. You can always manually mute by holding the AVIC hard-button on the far left. The audio source will automatically mute (full, 10% or 20% depending on settings) when you use the BT connected cell.

I think I checked a while ago when a similar issue came up, and the Pionner Far-East website didnt even list a model based on the Z1x00-BT or Fx0bt design. So I suspect there are no maps. Agreed, the other versions would be more compatible for the FM radio (also the AU version). I suspect the US Z1x00 prices have lured the OP.

There's enough customizable bells and whistles already. You have to draw the line somewhere. I would find this annoying. It serves no purpose. The music starts in a few seconds, so I can wait. Sounds like very small potatoes to me. I'd rather spend the engineer's time fixing more important things. Like BT quality.

Yeah, that is very annoying. Sometimes. like when adding gasoline, I pull up to the pump and want to leave the audio playing (especially while streaming over BT). So I shut-down the engine and leave the key in the Accessory position. But when I restart the engine - the AVIC reboots. A very annoying side-effect of this is that it seems to wipe-out the iPod VR catalog. It has to do a full rebuild afterwards - takes several minutes instead of a few seconds like a reboot from a power-off condition. I expect the poster's mod would be very vehicle specific. I had thought of doing something simi

Pg 172 & 173 "Mute Level"

Forget about the GPS. You won't find any maps. For a US Z120, the FM tuner will only tune to odd frequencies - 98.1, 98.3, 98.5.... Most of the world doesn't have that restriction. Not sure about Malaysia. The DVD in a US unit will be locked to region #1 (North America). So basically, for your money you'll get an expensive and fancy iPod/MP3/MP4 player and crippled FM radio. Oh, yeah, AM radio should work just fine.

I think he meant fromage -> http://www.vellacheese.com/ His french is a little rusty!

The only way to delete a BT pairing is to do a full reset of the AVIC (or pair 5 more devices). See pg 186 of Z120 manual.

How's the HU gonna do WiFi? No NIC. Gotta tether via USB or BT.

Even if the new units are Android, it would give new useful life to our older generation HU's if this pans out. Might be the 1st really useful hack. Unfortunately, would require wifi or wireless internet to really take advantage of this.

The BU circuit is used for telling your HU that the car is backing-up only. If your HU is configured, itwill switch to the display when BU is energized (depending on settings). It is also used, along with VSS, for dead-reckoning when there is an interruption of sattelite signal. If you also chose to power your camera off your Backup Light circuit, then it will only have power when you are in reverse. In no case does the HU power the camera. If you want to have the camera operate at other times, you need another power source. If you are concerned about powering it all the time (from ACC),