RonS

Agreed, its nice to know what your speedo error is, specially for me since I like to go slightly above the limit (but not enough to get ticketed). You can display the speed in the 3D Calibration Status screen. And once you figure your speedo error, it isn't necessary to display it on the main screen all the time. The error will be a fixed ratio. For example, I found that when my speedo reads 50mph (at constant speed), the 3D calibration screen says about 48. So, I have about 4% error. Or -1 MPH for each 25 on the speedo.It isn't hard to figure (in rough numbers) that at 30MPH speedo I'm on

The free update (not upgrade) to 1.001000 doesn't change anything with the user interface, or anything you'd even notice. It just fixes a few minor things. If you aren't having problems, you don't need it.. And there is no way to undo it. I think you have it confused with the V2.000 upgrade - which changes the user interface and updates the maps. Basically, it turns the Z110 into a Z120. That is not free. Also no way to undo.

Because that's where the traffic data is. HD makes sense in the future, but it is relatively new and not widely used/supported. It doesn't have enough market penetration. In the US, most of the RDS traffic info is sent over Clear Channel stations. It is old, stable technology. This isn't a Pioneer decision, it is a defacto standard.

The Google is always your best friend . Wiki

I don't know about the EVO 4G version, but I use a hacked version of HTC Desire HD Android. When I BT pair to the HU, there is a prompt dialog on the phone that asks if it is OK to tranfer the contacts. Sometimes this prompt is not in the foreground, but just an icon on the top status line, In this dialog, you have the option to always allow the paired device to access contacts. I suspect that the HU is waiting for your phone to send the contacts. At some point, the HU finally gives up. So delete and re-pair. The cleanest way is to 1st delete the pairing on the phone's BT settings. Then

Might help if you posted the question in the Z1/2/3 sub-forum. This is for Z110/Z120/Z130. The bypass method is different - I believe.

That's great. Were you using the AV2 input (RCA Red/White/Yellow)? That should work if your phone output cable has RCA on the other end. The AV1/iPod AV connector has a non-standard band/conductor mapping Simplest is to use an CD-RM10 cable from Pioneer. However you can probably use any AV 3.5 mini to RCA cable if you can map the RCA ends correctly (use a multi-meter or continuity tester to verify which mini band maps to which RCA connector. The Pioneer AV1 input mini plug bands are (starting from tip Left, Right, Ground, Video. So you just need to connect the phone output to the correct A

Oh, a troll. That's what I figured. Stay with your $100 TomTom then.

It worked fine for me. I only tried it for 3 or 4 POIs that I created with AVIC Feeds and transfered via KLM files. It's been a while, so I'm a little fuzzy on details. Seems like I had to use the same icon for all. Also, (pg 157 Z120 manual) says that they aren't displayed if the map scale is .75 miles or greater. So, are you saying that you followed the steps on pgs 158 & 159 and the Custom POIs you selected don't display?

What HU model do you have? Not that it matters but it might help in tracking isssues with particular units. I have noticed that even using the same phone, I can sometimes have pairing quality issues. I re-flash my phone about once a week (playing with various customized versions of Android). So I'm often having to re-pair the same physical phone with the Z120. Sometimes I get issues with BT after a re-pairing, so I delete the pairing on the phone and try again. Not sure why it works better on subsequent trys. So, give it a try. Not saying it will fix all the BT quality issues with t

Hope you also saw this other thread. Especially that last post (although you might want to read back a few. http://avic411.com/index.php?/topic/31218-how-to-avoid-reboot-when-starting-vehicle/page__view__findpost__p__233448

The question I answered was asking if this (3.001) was a full update. I used the z120 upgrade as an example of the expected size of a full update. Sorry if that wasn't clear.

So you have a 130? The previous poster had a 110. While it's possible Pioneer could defeat the bypass with a software patch, I doubt they did. And certainly they didn't on the 110 - no recent patch/updates have been released. I'll ask someone more famliiar with the un-patched behavior to jump in here. Like I said a few posts earlier, mine was bypassed from day zero, so I have no insight into the behaviour. I just thought it locked you out of all those "dangerous" functions all the time. It makes no sense to me to occasionally give you a pass. Maybe the moved wire is loose?

Well, it seems you've got a problem that no one else has, so it is likely there is somethingyou've done wrong that is causing it. You expect to just say "Why isn't it working?" and get an answer? I 've shot my wad, so anyone else care to guess?

No, we're all standing around outside your window Maybe your lack of information made us dread having to pull all the details out of you. 1st question that comes to mind - did you do the PB by-pass? If not, was the PB set? I don't have a Z130, so I don't know the idiosyncracies of that unit. But with the whole Z1x0 family, there are many items greyed-out when the PB is not set. Pioneer doesn't want you playing around much while you're driving.

I don't think the HU copies anything off the SD into its storage (not a hard drive, BTW). Is it possible that when you delete the vid files off the SD using your PC, it places them in the recycle bin folder on the SD? Then maybe the HU scans the entire file system and finds them hidden away. Just a guess. Try inserting another SD card, blank or with different videos. Do your old videos still show up?

Could you elaborate a little on this? I know the TR7 is capable of lots of stuff. It is commonly used to bypass Alpine HUs. In fact, the default config is for that application, I recall. How would it be wired & programmed for the App Radio? Also, "clarion bypass" is a little vague. Any particular model, or is the method the same for all? I'm trying to understand the chart in your second link. Feature #17. What does the asteric indicate? How would it be wired? I know someone attempting to get around the PB lockout, and I wanted to give advice, but I'm not at all familiar with

Well lets see, the Z120 Upgrade (a full update, in other words), was about 3.6 GB. This 3.001 "Update" is 68 MB (after extraction from the compressed archive. Download and extract it yourself, if you are that interested. There' s not much there. There' s 105 files, most of them only a few 100K. A full release would be thousands of files, some of which would be several 100MB. There's also no map data..

Your installer is a dope. The Z110/Z120 (and I assume the Z130 - but don't have one) do not use the GPS or clock to determine it is night, they use the Orange/White wire in the power harness that I believe has a tag that says "ILL" for illumination. Connect it to a 12VDC circuit that switches on with your lights - headlight, parking light, dash light (although there might be a problem due to the dimmer for instruments). I used headlights. Don't confuse this with the parking brake hack. BTW, the HU doesn't "dim". It has a daytime brightness and a nightime brightness (each indiviually user

I think the DB9/25 pins are larger. I had one too and it didn't help on my Z110. I ended up slicing open the nylon connector because I couldn't get mine to release.

I started to say something similar, but then caught myself. Remember, when the V2.000 upgrade came out (to update the Z110 to Z120), the hack that Shortfuse did was through to the previous 1.001 minor update to 1.0. Yes, Pioneer came out with a minor update 2.003, but that had nothing to do with the hack. So, the new 3.001 will not help because it requires that the 3.000 version already is installed. And if you had that (which isn't even available att), it wouldn't matter. So, if V3.0 can be hacked using a similar technique (a big IF), it will be based on the 2.003 patch/update to V2.0

You still should be able to extract the metal part from the cable connector using the correct technique and a small needle-nose pliers. Then you can just solder the wire back on and insert it into the new position. I think you can even slice the plastic open (with a razor knife) if necesary to remove it. Don't know if the diode thing will work on a Z130 (or Z120), If it did, we wouldn't be messing with the harness in the 1st place.

Depending on your phone, that's all you get over BT. For an iPhone, you get full control, playlists, album art, ID3 tags, etc, but you need the adapter cable.

You didn't say whether you paid an installer or DIY. I certainly hope you didn't pay much with all the problems your had (this plus Parking Brake/bypass). It certainly sounds like the red power feed (+12VDC switched) is not connected to a circuit that switches off when the car is not running or ACC is not on. The best place to find that circuit varies from car to car. Some cars might have both constand and switched power in the factory radio harness. Mine didn't - just the constant +12VDC. I ran my red wire to my fuse panel and tied it into a switched circuit with an "Add-a-Circuit" adapter

Maybe you can take the PDF file to Kinkos. I don't know what they charge per page.