RonS

If the VSS sensor wire is connected to a pulsating source like a speedometer or ABS sensor, the unit will calibrate the distance the vehicle travels per pulse using the GPS. Once it is calibrated, it can do a decent job of estimating motion in places where no GPS signal is available. It also uses the Backup sensor if installed, and an internal gyro and slope sensor. With this info, it can do a dead reckoning estimation of your current position - based on the last good GPS fix. So effectively calculates the VSS sensor's tire circumference (or however far it travels over one "pulse" unit. It

Don't hook-up the ND-TMC10 until you install the soon-to-be released upgrade. It's been reported that without that, the HU won't support the new tuner - and you'll get errors.

I think you have the current maps - or at least as far as Pioneer has. The Z110/Z120 upgrade probably wouldn't install on your Z130- and might be a bad idea to use if it did. There is a difference in the hardware. It could overwrite drivers or you might loose some functionality that isn't supported in the older models. I don't think Pioneer sends any announcements to customers when updates are available. I'd just check Pioneer USA's web site occasionally. AFA dead reckoning, the backup wire is only marginally useful - unless you do lots of backing-up in the garage. The VSS - once the AVIC

Don't expect regular map updates like with Garmin. It seems Pioneer updates the system (including maps) about once per year - or whenever they feel like it. For the Z1x0 series, an upgrade is supposed to be released in Sep that will upgrade the z110/z120 to be similar to a Z130 - and load the 2011 maps. It will allow the new Traffic reciever to work, and add many of the Z130 enhancements.The MSRP for this upgrade will be $200. As far as the dead reckoning when no signal is available - the AVIC doesn't have a No Signal display - unless you look in the settings menu. However, it sounds like

I suppose a German Shepard in the front seat is out of the question?

Very misleading title. You offered no evidence or even any rationale for the bypass damaging your unit. Electronics die all the time. It is no more likely to get damaged from the bypass than it is from heat, voltage surge, short circuit ..... or old age. Did the CS ask you to return the harness? Without that, they would not be able to prove it was by-passed. However, it isn't under warranty anyway, so it probably doesn't matter.

Are you sure it isn't already the most recent version? From the update instructions: 1. Press the "HOME" button; then touch the "Settings" tab; 2. Touch the "System Settings" tab; then touch the "Service Information" tab; Ignore the version number on this screen. 3. Press and hold the top left corner of the “Service Information†screen; 4. The "Platform version" number and the "Application version" number are both displayed -- please look at the "Application Version" number, which is displayed on the second line; and 5. If the "Version" number is "2.002100" or an earlier/smaller nu

Can you enter a destination address or search for POI with the car parked? If so, then they didn't do it right. The procedure is well documented on this board and several YouTube videos. The process is exactly the same for the Z110 and Z120. For other models, a different method is used. Sounds like they used a different procedure. Maybe they just grounded the PB wire. Or maybe they didn't get the moved wire seated fully in the connector. I can't diagnose it. But if done correctly, it will work.

Parking Brake bypass fools the AVIC into thinking your parking brake is on, thus allowing all functions that are normally locked-out. The usual way is, as you referenced, use the normally unused Mute wire (yellow/black). If you actually use the Mute feature (common for OnStar & maybe some steering-wheel controls), then you may need to find a compatable pin/wire from some other source. So, yes, it will allow you to enter destinations, search POI, and many other functions.

No, can't be done with droid. And it isn't just the HU that's the problem. There is no standard external interface over BT to launch and control apps. AVRCP 1.x only supports simple playback control (FF, Pause, Next Trk....etc) - And even that doesn't work on all droids. My advice - if you really what this ...get an iPhone. The Pandora control built-in to the HU is only over the wired iPod/iPhone adapter using the 30 pin connector. So obviously, it is iPhone specific. I don't use it, but according to the manual, even that requires you to launch the Pandora app from the phone.

Hey rastta, saw you on P-9!!!! (I'm rschwerer - same avatar). Thought the story bout the break-in sounded familiar. BTW, the device name thing probably isn't applicable - unless your old unit was also paired w/this phone under the same name. Since you seem to be having the same issue with other phones, could be the HU. One last thing to try is to do a factory reset on the HU. It has been known to fix things when all else fails. AFA the s/w update - there's been a lot of people w that problem.

Time to rename this the "Me Too" thread! Seriously, the OP has a total of 3 posts, so I wouldn't hold my breath waiting for a response. Maybe a PM will do it. Has anyone gotten a response? If not, I think you're S.O.L.

I never follow the exact steps listed in the manual. Well, I did once - and it didn't work. Specifically, I never use the "Nearby Device List". I think it only works with some devices. Try this: 0. On the AVIC, go to BT settings/Registration. 1. On your phone, delete the old pairing. 2. Also on the phone, put it into scan mode (exact terminology will vary). 3. On the AVIC, press "Register from phone". The "Please follow the instructions on your phone" box will pop-up. 4. On the phone, you should eventually see the HU name listed. If it doesn't (sometimes it takes more than one try),

I recall others having overheat issues, but I think those were from poor air circulation at the rear of the HU. That doesn't sound like your problem since it sounds like it mutes on start-up. I assume your car gets parked for extended periods in direct sun-light? I don't know what you can do about that except reduce the heat build-up in the interior. Maybe a sun-shade. Or if possible, leave the window open a crack. Or better yrt, park in the shade.

OP was talking about SAT - specifically. He didn't say which one. You said "Same here". No one even mentioned off air FM or HD. The manual shows (pg XM as showing station name and icon (if available) in the scrolling Preset Wheel on the right side of the screen (p137). Sirius, however, just shows the Preset # (pg 142-143). Are you saying the Z130 doesn't work as shown in the manual? Or the x930 works differently than the Z130? The FM/HD tuner is indeed different between the two HUs, and, yes - it seems to suck on the Z130.

I think it works as expected for XM (all HU models), but the Sirius user interface is very primitive.

In the root of the SD: Folder \AVICZ110 Folder \AVICZ110\APL with lots of stuff inside Folder \AVICZ110\BOOT with lots of stuff inside Folder \AVICZ110\FONTS with lots of stuff inside Folder \AVICZ110\PLATFORM with lots of stuff inside Also in \AVICZ110 are a bunch of EUR090*HTM and VER files That should be enough to verify everything is in the right place.

I don't know the answer to this question, but I'd like to add that- in my opinion, a extremely large USB or SD card isn't a very good idea for several reasons. -Maximum folders = 300 -Maximum files = 2500 -Awkward file browser / media player interface -Unable to search for file/artist/album -No playlist capability -Doesn't display album artwork -No VR capability (yes it actually works pretty well with a good mic) I would highly recommend using an iPod for all multimedia files - it eliminates all or the above problems - and adds a very friendly user interface. SD cards are only real

Best guess is yes, it will be OK. But since no one has tried it yet, don't know for sure. Stay tuned.

Did you try deleting the pairing from the phone and re-pairing? I flash different operating systems on my phone a lot, so I do a lot of re-pairing. Sometimes, for unknown reasons, the quality sucks, or some other issue, and I just keep deleting and pairing until it is good. Also, make sure you have "Echo Cancel" enabled in the BT settings. Unforunately, you may have to find a unit with better BT phone support. I always tell people in car support groups who are looking to upgrade their HU - if hands-free phone quality is a top priority, look elseware. For many, like me, it isn't important

It sounds like the part you are referring to only works with Pioneer HU's that support a CD changer. To my knowledge, the Z1x0-BT series does not support a CD changer, therefore your adapter is not comparible. As far as EXT1/2, the manual states "The term “external unit†refers to futurePioneer devices that are not currently plannedfor, or to devices that allow control of basicfunctions although they are not fully controlledby the navigation system." That vague description sounds like it could include a CD changer device, but it also sounds like the Z series doesn't currently support th

I can't go along with that statement because when my phone (HTC HD2) was running Windows Mobile 6.5, I could control the MP3 playback from the HU. FF/Next, Previous, Pause, etc. After switching to Android 2.1 and 2.3 (a port of HTC Desire HD), the control went way. I can stream audio, I just cant control the playback from the HU So, from this, all that can be said is that there is some incompatibility with the AVRCP implementation between the HU and phone. Could be either or both at fault.

I would think that the gauge of the yellow wire was sized to handle the rated HU max 10 Amps. So adding additional accessories tapped into it could overload it. I don't know what the P20 draws. Best to either tap off a different constant +12V circuit or run a dedicated (fused) wire from the battery. Since the manual specified constant, hooking it to a switched will likely reset the tuner - wiping out various static data. This would probably have some adverse affets on operability - but it would likely still operate. Don't use the antenna power - it is only rated enough to trigger a relay (max

I once was under the impression that the settings actually indicated whether the PB was correctly by-passed. However, I have heard of too many people like you saying their's shows Parking Brake is ON, yet they still get the warning. So, I now believe all that "PB ON" means is that the PB wire is grounded. I think your problem is with the moved Mute wire. Most likely it is not fully seated, or it was damaged during the extraction.

First here's an important programming rule. You need to go completely through the programming cycle and enter a value for each timer. You should use the blue output since it is rated at a much higher max amp output than the others. The values you use for white and orange don't matter, but you need to enter some time - I'd set them to zero. As far as the best delay time, the way I figure it is - it needs to be at least as long as it takes your vehicle to start/crank. Normally, that's just a few seconds. If it sometimes takes longer, such as cold winter weather, add more. The only down-side t