RonS

I don't use that feature. I gave you the page number for a reason. If you had looked you would see:

Make sure Echo Cancel is ON. (See Manual pg 74). I found that it improved the quality a bunch. I don't know if it is on by default. As far as the mic goes, in your case I'd buy a Garmin mic and have your installer yank and replace in one step. If you have to pay an installer, it would be both cheaper and easier to just do it all at the same time. The cost of the mic is less than the labor. Then send the old mic to Pioneer if you want a spare (assuming it tests as defective - which is a crap-shoot). It is also possible that your installer did a poor job. Make sure the mic is fully inserted

Send back as in return (RMA)? Or send in for repairs? If you are thinking of returning cause you don't like it, don't worry about it. They'll never notice a wire in the wrong socket. That is unless you cut it out. Then you'll have to pay for another power harness. If you need to return for warrantee service, then don't send your harness. They can't require you to rip apart your wiring. Or, if that doesn't fly, buy another cable. And once it is out of warrantee, it's none of their business how you have it wired.

I think you are talking about nano's. He has an iPod Video (5G) - which will work. According to the manual, none of the older 'classic' versions (G1-4) will work. My old 4G Photo doesn't.

Not very well. Page 14. Press the Eject button.

The one on the left is the Z110-BT. It looked like that for all ipods that were supported. The right side is the new interface/software (Z120 or an updated Z110). You won't be able to use Pandora with your older iPod, but the rest should work. I don't remember, but I think iPod Video is 5th Gen. Gen 4 and below won't.

Yeah, start over and do it again. It works, so if you are having problems, it must be something you are doing wrong. How could we possibly help you with so little information? This applies to everyone who has had issues doing the update(s) - all three major steps (or 5 if you include the 2 BT updates). 1. Follow the instructions explicitly and completely for each individual update. If something is not absolutely clear to you, ask questions here. Maybe you aren't clear about a step and assumed something wrong. No shame in asking. 2. If a step fails after several attempts, and you followed

Since your video shows German language, I assume that this in not the US update. Has anyone successfully gotten the EU/German version of the v2.xxx update to work? I recall questions about it but I don't remember anyone admitting to doing it.

Exactly, it doesn't shut off. It just stops/causes and goes it a partial sleep. It is really a matter of semantics, and, like vblue42 said, there really is no need for an off button (one that actually turns the power off). For reasons that should be obvious, it would have to be a hard button.

I see from another thread that you finally got it to work. Good for you. Can you elaborate on the fix so you might help others who are similarly "challenged"? BTW, please don't post nearly identical "HELP" messages in two places. You updated one with a "never-mind", but left this one hanging.

In that case, how do you turn it on while driving? I think it just turns off the backlight of the LCD screen.

I notice that sometimes I am behind the plotted arrow, and sometimes I am in front of it. Not sure if it is a directional thing, meaning a constant error in one direction/quadrant. In that case, for example, I would always be lagging the plot when headed East, and always be trailing the plot when headed West. This reminds me of the old days before they turned off Selective Availability (SA). For you young'uns: SA was a technique to reduce the accuracy of unaugmented, single-receiver GPS measurements. This was accomplished by altering (or "dithering") the GPS satellite clock signals

Yeah, I hope you haven't already pulled the trigger on all those cables, adapters, and missing parts. I thought it was odd when, in another thread, you said the seller was replacing it with a Z120-BT, which is exactly the same unit. All that it takes is a software update, which can be had for $150 (or free). So why replace the HU if it was working?

You didn't say which inputs have the hiss. BT stereo OK? Sounds like it is only the radio. Is it both AM and FM? Did you install HD radio? Is so, does that hiss? I admittedly hardly ever listen to AM and rarely FM, mostly BT stereo and ipod. So I can't say if my AVIC has any hiss, or if it is more than I would expect. I do remember having to adjust the EQ for BT audio for streaming talk shows, but that was to reduce the bass. You might be able to filter it out with a custom EQ setting on those few inputs, escpecially AM, which is noisier by nature. In fact, that might be all it is. The

He'd probably have better results with the directions in the Z1 forum

Yeah, that puzzled me too. The only thing I could find that he might be referring to was to configure Day/Night into the Quick Access menu (see the manual p.160 for Quick Access menu options), which appears on the Nav map. Then it is two presses to toggle between Day and Automatic. The only problem with this is that you must be on the NAV screen. So one more press (Mode) is required. Oh, and add an "OK" press if you hadn't taken the pledge when you 1st started-up. I couldn't see any way to add Day/Night to the main Shortcuts menu. If there is another way, please elaborate.

Or simpler yet, use a SPDT switch. Only costs a little more than the usual SPST. On the DT side, one is ACC+, the other comes from the back-up light.

Just to clarify, v1.001 was downloadable a patch by Pioneer to the original software. I don't remember which minor issues it fixed. Seems like most people didn't bother to install it at the time. CNSD-110FM is the part number for the upgrade to Z120 - that is v2.000. It comes in two SD cards. It also includes 2 Parrot BT updates, v3.10 on SD 1, and v3.11 on SD 2. Later, Pioneer released a downloadable patch to v2.000 called 2.003. It fixed some iPod issues. If you buy CNSD-110FM (usually $150-200 + s/h), forget about v1.001. Install v2.000, BT 3.10, then BT 3.11. Then download and in

Do you really think the reason for the by-pass is to watch movies while you're driving?

You can buy the required cables from Pioneer. Gee, I wonder why a person would be selling a HU on ebay without bothering to also include the cables? Probably because they couldn't hang around long with the alarm going off. Well, I hope you got a great deal, cause it's unlikely you will find someone selling them. These are specific to this unit. You can order replacements from Pioneer, but it will be expensive. You will also need the GPS antenna and power cord. I'd guess it's about $150-$200 for everthing you shoud of received from a legit seller. I looked into just buying a spare power c

No, the built-in Pandora interface only works with an iPhone/iPod touch. It requires a custom Pioneer app to be installed on the phone. I comes with a fairly long USB dongle. One end plugs into the back of the HU, the other has a female USB jack. It also has a female 1/8" mini-jack for A/V. Your Pioneer iPod adapter (optional) plugs into both of these. It comes with a mic, try it before you buy one. Mine works as good as any other non-noise cancelling mic. Some people have tried 3rd party mics with varying results. Not sure what A/V harness you want. It comes with a dongle with all

No, just follow the Pioneer instructions.

Since it seems it has never been installed, and it isn't bricked, you are probably as safe as anyone. A gadget this complex can have other issues, such as audio quality, reliability, noise, sensitivity/signal loss. There are other problems besides DOA that these things get returned for. If you look thru the Troubleshot section, you will find lots of issues that required replacement. BTW, just because the cables look good doesn't mean it wasn't installed. The ends can be trimmed, or the harnesses can be replaced with new. But if everything looked "factory fresh", chances are good it wasn't

Yes, I'd carefully bench-check it before going through all the trouble of installing it. I even did with my new out-of-the-box unit. But in my case it was going to be over a month before I got my new car, and I didn't want to get out of the RMA/exchange time window. Rather than making a cig-lighter adapter, I just used a car battery at my workbench (I happened to have one sitting there). BE VERY CAREFUL - a short could fry it, or worse yet - cause an explosion from battery gases. Just tying the red/yellow together as [+] and grounding the black to [-] is enough to get the unit to boot. S

I have both User Manuals, and it hasn't changed.