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New IR receiver for AVIC (Adds wireless remote control!!!)

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Glad to see you got it up and running. I got my supplies in last Friday but haven't had a chance to install them...


I went with the 9115 remote so I could get the features I wanted (mute, answer/end call). I've programmed the SWI-PS so that 'mode' is VR, which works best for me. I love that.

So, given that, the only other functions that were really useful to me were remote and answer/end call. I also plan to compete in MECA car audio competitions and having a remote for people who are judging/listening is a nice feature. For some reason, people look at me funny when I say to use the steering wheel volume/track control. I have no idea why.... :/









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I had to have line of sight from my cd-r510 to the IR receiver. I wish I could have had it hidden, but I am just happy I don't have to lean forward when I drive to constantly manipulate the Z! I would have been nice to have something like a bluetooth remote (we can all hope this comes with the update!). Good job on the vid VBlue

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I need Instalation advice I cannot wire the WPI with the (Red wire) with my Gmos-04 harness , the wpi frys my gmos04. Anybody got any ideas where i can get an alternate power source besides the red wire coming from the harness. Thanks


Depending on the year of your GM vehicle, there should be a bundle of blunt cut wires somewhere below and to the left the head unit. Following is a quote out of the GM electrical manual for my 08 Silverado 2500HD:


Installation Instructions —

12 Volt Accessory Power Supply


1. Disconnect the battery negative (-) cable at the battery. The

negative (-) battery cable must be disconnected before the

positive wiring lead is connected to the power accessory.


2. Locate the power supply harness under the instrument panel

near the center of the vehicle. The wire bundle consists of six

blunt cut wires, two red/white (battery hot), two black (ground),

one light green (Ign hot) and one light blue (Ign hot).


3. Remove the tape to release the wire bundles from the

power supply harness.


4. The IGN A and IGN B wires have voltage supplied and are

HOT when the ignition is turned to ACC, RUN or RAP

(Retained Accessory Power).

The BAT A and BAT B wires have direct voltage supplied

and are HOT at all times.

The combined electrical load of IGN A and BAT A must not

exceed 21 amps (250 watts). Additionally, the combined

electrical load of IGN B and BAT B must not exceed 21 amps

(250 watts). The combined electrical load of all circuits must not

exceed 42 amps (500 watts).


5. Prepare the wires that are to be used to connect the power

accessory. Do not remove the unused wires. Tape unused wires

back in their original position under the instrument panel.


6. Complete the wiring installation of the customer added

accessory with additional wire required for the specific

electrical accessory power connection. The wire gage,

12 gage (3.0 mm²), should be the same as the wiring of the

installed harness.


I recommend using these wires for any of the power needs for aftermarket HUs and related accessories. I had used an OnStar retention module for a while because 1) I thought I'd use OnStar and 2) it had the necessary wires for the assorted input wires of the HU harness (reverse, vss, parking brake - see ground, 12v, acc, ground). After the module blew, which didn't take long, I found all of the wiring points in the electrical manual. I never missed OnStar and I certainly didn't miss the chimes. I usually have my music, Rush, Hannity and/or Levin turned up too high to hear the turn signal anyway. In short, if you don't use OnStar, there's no reason at all to keep replacing those fragile POS retention modules.

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BTW... Has anybody tested the CD-R55 or R99 with the WRI-P? I'm not really concerned with the VR functionality as I can use my steering wheel to activate that, and it appears from previous posts that you can assign a button on the remote to handle that. I whould like to know if the number keys on these remotes work as I frequently use direct tune for xm. Also, how well does the d-pad on the remotes work?

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Stupid Question: Can I just hook up the hot (red wire) to the regular red wire coming out of the harness, or do I have to modify the install as one of the previous inquiries suggested? I do have a backup camera also running our through the red wire.


By the way, bought a system from 6ave.com and the PAC and ipod wires...well the AVIC Z110bt was a dud...can you believe it, waiting almost 6 months for this IR capability, finally get the unit and it was defected. Well, ordered another one from Car Toys so cant wait to install. Thanks for any help.

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I want to thank codecrusher and vblue42, and all the other heroes on this forum who haven given their due diligence and assiduousness to help us install and locate new ways to make sure our systems bang! You truly helped my decision to move from the Z3 to Z110bt. I was able to install my Avic Z110bt seamlessly last night due to your hard work and I LOVE my new system (it bumps louder than ever). My IR capabilities are effortless now with the new PAC module. I am considering getting the MSN Direct so I can have a complete system. Again, thank you guys for providing us novices in the game assistance.

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The most stinging part about all of this?... I paid about $105 to set up the SWI controls in my car ($63 for the OEM buttons, and $42 for the PAC swi-ps). I spent about 5 hours last weekend diagnosing my car's clock spring to no avail. I spent about 2 hours testing it on the bench to make sure it wasn't the pac piece itself.

Was going to spend the majority of my day tomorrow doing more testing on the clock spring.


Then I saw the receiver on e-bay for $40, and just ordered my remote for $45 as well. So, I would have saved $20 and at least 7 hours if I had waited a week. Go figure, right?




I see you mentioned you have a Civic and you had clockspring issues. Can you describe in more detail. i have a Honda Ridgeline, and I have had some issues with my SWI-PS. I can get the SWI to program, but when I raise the volume on my HU about midway, the SWI changes the source of the HU. This has happened on by F90BT and my new Z110. I worked around the problem by not programming the "mode" buttn on the wheel. This way, the SWI cannot change the source. Lately, the SWI has been jumping tracks randomly, regardless of volume level. I have ran a new ground wire, direct from the battery, to try and eliminate the problem, but no help. i was going to try a new SWI unit, thinking my issue was just bad hardware, but after reading your about your problem, I was curious if it was similar. Any thoughts ?

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