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Absolutely, howarmat! I have a headache from reading some many posts. There seems to be so much off topic chit chat and bickering in this thread that I still don't have a true understanding whether or not the bluetooth upgrade is recommended or not.

 

So I will ask the question another way.

 

Is it recommended that I utilize the bluetooth upgrade disk to fix the echo problem or should I just try to use the one speaker method? The rep in the nagivation department at Pioneer act as if he didn't know there was a known problem. :x

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Is it recommended that I utilize the bluetooth upgrade disk to fix the echo problem or should I just try to use the one speaker method? The rep in the nagivation department at Pioneer act as if he didn't know there was a known problem. :x

 

I would recommend that you first (before pairing the phone) decrease the volume as low as possible and then pair the phone. If it's already paired, do a level 3 reset. Then pair it. Try different speakers for echo.

 

While the CD update does help, I don't know if it's any better than just lowered the volume before pairing (it probably is, but I don't know if it's a lot).

 

If neither of those fixes it to your satisfaction then try the update cd.

 

That would be my recommendation.

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Thanks, ducatiboy! You gave a straight forward answer as always! I'm scheduled for my install on Wed. I'm going to use your bypass as well. Hopefully the installer doesn't give me a hard time. I have a Cingular 650 and will try your recommendations first before fooling with upgrade disk. Hopefully, I won't need it. :D

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Oh wow, thanks for the info ducatiboy. I thought lowering the volume before pairing was something that helped with the new firmware, not all firmwares...now to whip out the manual and get the level 3 reset instructions! :) Thats something else Pioneer should fix, the ability to delete phones WITHOUT resetting the unit.

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Oh wow, thanks for the info ducatiboy. I thought lowering the volume before pairing was something that helped with the new firmware, not all firmwares...now to whip out the manual and get the level 3 reset instructions! :) Thats something else Pioneer should fix, the ability to delete phones WITHOUT resetting the unit.

 

Oh no, it helps with all firmwares (at least it is supposed to). That is the rumor that the fix is, it lowers the volume on already recorded phones. I don't know if that's true, but it's a rumor.

 

Turn on the unit, when you see the boot screen, press and hold MAP. It will pop up a screen, press RESET. It will wipe out phones, but surprisingly little else, you will keep your address book, phone book, recent destinations, recorded music. I didn't notice too much it "lost". But check the manual for what it loses to make sure I'm not missing something important to you.

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Great, thanks for the info, apreciate it. Just to make sure I understand your earlier post correctly wipe the phones with level 3, turn the volume down for the phone option ON THE Z1 (not the phone itself) and repair, then raise the volume as needed.

 

No make a cell phone call with the Z1 off (just using the cell phone itself), while on the phone talking to the other party, turn the volume on the cell phone all the way down (as low as possible). Hang up the phone. Then turn on the Z1 and pair the phone. Once paired you can turn up your headset volume on the phone. But for some reason the volume of the ear piece when pairing seems to make a difference with the old firmware (at least it did for me). Doesn't seem to matter with the new update CD.

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I just had the Z1 installed in my H2: Bluetooth, XMradio, XMnavTraffic, Backup Camera. Did not know that there was a bluetooth problem. Everything works perfect including bluetooth with my Samsung BlackJack.

 

Also, they did a bypass that was software based, everything is bypassed but all wires are installed per installation manual.

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I just had the Z1 installed in my H2: Bluetooth, XMradio, XMnavTraffic, Backup Camera. Did not know that there was a bluetooth problem. Everything works perfect including bluetooth with my Samsung BlackJack.

 

Also, they did a bypass that was software based, everything is bypassed but all wires are installed per installation manual.

 

Ahopp, that's interesting! I didn't know that there was a software based bypass. Please explain this new revelation. I'm sure Duccatiboy would enjoy hearing this.

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Also, they did a bypass that was software based, everything is bypassed but all wires are installed per installation manual.

 

Normally I would have found this hard to believe, but the way the bypass works is obviously on the hard drive because I believe the update cd is just modifying the hard drive. And it changed my bypass method.

 

How do you know you have a software update? When was your Z1 made? Are you positive that they just didnt ground 2 wires? If you go into the connection status and put the parking brake on and off, does the status change?

 

Not that it isn't possible, but no one has heard of this yet.

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The way the technicial explained it was that there is a factory testing mode that allows everything to be hooked up and working corectly but fully bypassed.

 

I have tested everything including watching DVDs and setting destinations while in motion. I have also confirmed that the vehicle dynamics are all working properly.

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Not that I don't believe you. But technician say a lot of things. A lot of times they "dumb down" what they say so people are happy with whatever quick explanation they give (even if the party they are speaking to could understand exactly what is happening). I have gotten emails from people over the last 9 months or so and some of the things technicians have said have been really wild.

 

Did the installer give you the box the unit came in? Or the warranty sticker? There is a manufacture date on both of those as well as on the unit itself (which you now can't see since it's installed). It doesn't matter when it was installed, but I would guess you have a newer one. If you can find a card or the box it came in with the manufacture date on it, it would narrow down what I am thinking about.

 

 

Can you do me a favor? Hit

 

MENU - SETTINGS (tab) - HARDWARE - CONNECTION STATUS

 

Look at the parking brake line. Note the state it's in, engage and disengage the parking brake over and over. Does that state change? Does it go on and off with the parking brake? If not, what state is it always in?

 

Not that I'm trying to be a pain, but if there is another way to bypass this without messing with wires, I'm sure a TON of people would be VERY happy.

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