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Current Z2 Bypass Bounty


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Well i tried it and it's a no go for me.

Installed a 1meg pot, tied one side to constant power other side to ground, moved the wire on the Z2 to the secret location, set the center pin to 2.5 volts, unplugged my VSS from the z2, reset unit.

Unplugging the VSS wasn't part of the deal anyway.

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Been busy the past 2 weekends, so catching up on the latest and greatest. First, forgive me if my engineering skills are quite dusty, but why all this talk about pots? Seems to me if there is a 5VDC (or 4.88VDC as was pointed out) then it should be a simple matter of tapping that with 2 resistors of approximately equal value to half the voltage. Run that into (pin 20? / bottom right) of connector 2. There should be no need to deal with unregulated vehicle voltage , which obviously will fluctuate based upon load and alternator (hence a volt meter on most dashes with a wide range).

 

Not knowing the load is the issue, but we can guess it's a relatively low load. That said, attached is a sample circuit that might work here to keep the tolerance as tight as possible to the 2.5VDC rumored to be the sweet spot. This circuit would allow for fine tuning the VDC, keeping it in the general range. It's possible you don't even need the pot if the tolerance (+/- of 2.5VDC) is wide... Anyway, my point is we should be using the Z2's own regulated voltage as input.

 

Unfortunately, I have no time until next weekend to test any of this out :( , so hope we have some takers here. When stumped, many times it's helpful to tread old territory. Often we take complex avenues to solutions because the simple solutions where ruled out on based on bad data (faulty test conditions, etc..).

 

Cheers

post-7909-12872752531525_thumb.jpg

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Actually there isn't a regulated 5V out like that. The pin that people claimed should be 2.5V is the 5V out. But there is a resistor on the "top" to pull it to 5V. 4.8 actually if I'm not mistaken. So we need to just get a resistor value which pulls down that pin to the 2.5 that is reported to work and reported not to work. We have 2 people who have tried this... one says it works and one says it doesn't work. But I don't think we need to get to complicated making the 2.5V.

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Hey guys what if u were to use a light dimmer switch to adjust the voltage going to the 5volt wire and a djust it to the 2.5volts thats needed...I dunno if it would work just trying to help..

 

Depends on the light dimmer switch. Some are very large pots. Some are pulse modulators. The new pulse modulators are much more common with newer vehicles, they can dim much more power and don't burn off much in the way of heat.

 

Once we figure out the pull up resistor... All you need is another resistor of the same value between that wire and ground. No variable, no setting... nothing. We just need to figure out what that value needs to be.

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Hi all-- I'm new here so please be gentle. :) I'm working on installing a new Z2 so I've been reading as much Avic411 content as I can.

 

But if I interpret this thread properly, a -possible- solution is a stable 2.5V level held on that input wire, correct?

 

Instead of fiddling with resistors alone...why not use something like this:

http://www.mouser.com/search/ProductDet ... -LD1084V25

 

now if for some reason the input voltage were to drop too much, you could always just tap 12v from the car instead, no? but I would think 4.8v is more than enough to adequately power a linear regulator to only a 2.5v output.

 

anywho, I'm willing to try it on my Z2 if someone thinks a voltage regulator isn't crazy :):?:

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Hi all-- I'm new here so please be gentle. :) I'm working on installing a new Z2 so I've been reading as much Avic411 content as I can.

 

But if I interpret this thread properly, a -possible- solution is a stable 2.5V level held on that input wire, correct?

 

Instead of fiddling with resistors alone...why not use something like this:

http://www.mouser.com/search/ProductDet ... -LD1084V25

 

now if for some reason the input voltage were to drop too much, you could always just tap 12v from the car instead, no? but I would think 4.8v is more than enough to adequately power a linear regulator to only a 2.5v output.

 

anywho, I'm willing to try it on my Z2 if someone thinks a voltage regulator isn't crazy :):?:

 

 

not sure if a voltage regulator is going to work in this case, since the wire rests at 4.8v inputting a 2.5v constant voltage to the wire is not going to make it always 2.5v, its going to take on some voltage from the 4.8 unless you pull the 4.8v down past the 2.5. looks like a simple 1000k (1mohm) 1/4w resisistor might just do the trick all together. <- can someone try this. one side of a 1000k (1mohm) resistor to the pin and the other side to gnd.

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While a regulator will probably work, you would have to get one that will output 2.5 V. It's a little overkill when the correct resistor would do the same thing.

 

And where would you pull power? The car's 12V-15V electrical system? If so, some people will be blowing up regulators. They have a maximum input voltage of 30V and some cars have voltage spikes in the 80V range. Can this take it? Maybe, some will have these things popping or blowing up and "letting their smoke out". You would need to add another resistor and voltage suppression diode for protection.

 

Can you take it from the regulated 12V out of the amp turn on? You can, that would be safe as a voltage regulation standpoint but maybe the processor needs this 2.5V input sooner than that 12V comes alive.

 

You can't power this off 5V because the pin people are saying needs to be 2.5 V is the one at 5V. You would have to take power from somewhere else.

 

And I think someone posted that with a 1M pot without having the one side tied to the car's + line, they couldn't get 2.5V. But I don't know if I believe that.

 

not sure if a voltage regulator is going to work in this case, since the wire rests at 4.8v inputting a 2.5v constant voltage to the wire is not going to make it always 2.5v, its going to take on some voltage from the 4.8 unless you pull the 4.8v down past the 2.5.

 

Not really. The 5V or 4.8V on that pin is pulled up with a very large resistor. It would not take too much current to pull that down to 2.5V. And a regulator will do that unless it was pulled to 5V with a low enough resistance such that it would require more current than the regulator could produce. I'm pretty sure the regulator would overpower that pull up and force it to 2.5v.

 

But I agree it's a bit of an over kill for this solution.

 

looks like a simple 1000k (1mohm) 1/4w resisistor might just do the trick all together. <- can someone try this. one side of a 1000k (1mohm) resistor to the pin and the other side to gnd.

 

 

The necessary resistor would be (my guess) a 1 meg or more. Just a guess. With a car's power system you can make a pull up with a 10K but I don't know if they did.

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ok, well i have been playing a bit after looking at all the posts. I posted what i did but it looks like it was wrong. I went back and measured the output of the wire were trying to pull down and that wire to ground with a DVM is 4.8 like stated. I was measuring like i had said to power not ground. So this being the case i went back and readjusted the the pot to ground insted of power to 2.5 and the vid is working when the car is moving but it seems to be mesing up the nav. It knows where it was but never moves other then in circles. i have also noticed for some reson it there are vibration problems in the info screen. I'm still trying to see if it dammaged the unit or what happened. I will let you know.

Oh and with change in how the DMV is hooked i can get 2.5 volts with just grounding one side of the pot and the center to the z2.

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Surely, there's a "magical price" someone is willing to release information or put their time into figuring out this problem.

 

Yes there is.... three hundred TRILLION dollars! (pinky finger touching the corner of my mouth).

 

:)

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