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Current Z2 Bypass Bounty


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I would still like PHATTY260 to clarify his post...are you adding 2.5 volts to the pin or are you bringing the 4.88 volts down to 2.5 before grounding?

 

Electrically, there is no real functional difference. How ever you end up with 2.5V on that pin, the input to the A2D would not know the difference. But no one would actually apply 2.5V with a power source. You would do it with some form of resistor. PHATTY260 says that he/she used a resistor (pot). Without saying that any other device/thing was used, I would assume it's pulling down the 4.8V on that pin to 2.5V with that pot.

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I have friend thats did this but I haven't had a chance to try it out myself. Pretty much it's the same as the Z1. Insert a pin then ground it with the parking brake wire. BUT, you will also have to flash the dimmer wire too. Flash the dimmer with 12 volts a few time before the screen turns on. Good luck!

 

Is your friend an idiot? Because I know you are...

 

Damn, seriously people...CMON!

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Is your friend an idiot? Because I know you are...

 

Damn, seriously people...CMON!

 

Cmon now we can be a little nicer than that right? I know it was something already posted and already tried. I also don't think it would actually do anything. But if we are mean to people who post things people will stop posting things. It's possible we might stop people from just posting repetitive things or things they could have found by a quick search. But if this kind of reaction happens there is a possibility that someone who stumbled across something that would matter might keep it to themselves instead of sharing and risking being called an idiot. We can't all be as smart as me! (or is that I) :)

 

I know it's a duplicate, and it's not a problem to mention it.... but calling people idiots might be a bit excessive. It's an unnecessary post, but that doesn't make someone an idiot.

 

Can we play nice?

 

Maybe I have a higher tolerance for repetitive questions. :)

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i used catalog number 211 the first one u suggested and took one side to constant and one side to ground then the middle tested with the negative side of the dmm and brought the voltage to 2.5 into the pin. The only thing is that u have to test when the vehicle is running the batt rests at 12v and when running 14v so there is a bit of difference......seems to be working how long did it work before going into lock out mode before?

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i used catalog number 211 the first one u suggested and took one side to constant and one side to ground then the middle tested with the negative side of the dmm and brought the voltage to 2.5 into the pin. The only thing is that u have to test when the vehicle is running the batt rests at 12v and when running 14v so there is a bit of difference......seems to be working how long did it work before going into lock out mode before?

 

I don't care how many hours it takes you, please please oh god please punctuate and re-read to make sure it makes sense. If this is legit, it will help many many people, if it's not, we'll be able to figure that out faster with clear information.

 

That said, I have serious doubts about this. Can you take us through your testing process and results? How did you figure out what the pot needed to be dialed to? How did you know it would be different when the car is running? (shouldn't be, since it has hardware voltage regulation). How long did you test each iteration of adjustment? Since like ducati and others have said, resetting the unit with the p-brake grounded will work for a short while regardless of any other adjustments.

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Ok, it looks like PHATTY260 used this part:

 

http://www.radioshack.com/product/index ... Id=2062297

 

What he did was take one side of the pot and put it to ground and the other side to the car's +12 (or power). Then dialed it in so the middle point was 2.5V.

 

Of course you need to do this:

1. with the car running cause when the car is on but not running it's 12V and when it's running it's 14 volts.

2. with the middle wire hooked to the Z2's wire because there is a pull up resistor on that pin so if you tweaked it for 2.5V with the middle wire not connected and hooked it to the Z2 the voltage would change cause you just changed the upper resistor (if only slightly depending on the value of the pull up)

 

If this even works longer than 100 miles without constantly resetting the Z2, this is a sloppy solution for 2 reasons:

1. to set it up you need a volt meter because the value needs to be set and every car is different

2. if you get 2.5 volts when the car is running you won't get it when the car is on and the engine is not running.

 

 

What we need to do is to have someone get the same pot and hook one side to ground and the other side to nothing and the middle wire to the Z2, then measure what voltage you get and twist the pot till you get 2.5 v. Then turn everything off and remove the middle wire from the pot from the Z2 and measure the resistance between the middle point to ground (preferably at the point on the pot you hooked the wire). Then post the resistance here. Then no trim pot needed, no voltage meter needed and it will work with the engine running or not.

 

The other idea I had was to take the 12V out from the amp turn on wire from the z2 which is regulated and not the car's alternator/voltage regulator output and put a divider on that point. But electrically that's no different that getting the correct resistance and putting it on that wire to ground. We just need the value.

 

Of course, people already reported that they tried this and it doesn't work. Either they were mistaken or whom ever posted this here did this and didn't test it more than a couple miles.

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I'll give this a shot as soon as it stops raining here in sunny FL.

Let me get this straight, this is what i need to do.

1 Move one wire on the Z2s plug to the secret location.

2 Install pot center lead to sectet wire

3 install one of the other pot leads to ground

4 Hook a DVM to center lead and adjust it to read 2.5 volts

5 Reset unit and see what happens

 

I'll post the setting of the pot for you guys but my question is what level of reset do i have to do as well as about how long does it need to be tested. I think resetting mine doesn't bypass it at all. well just let me know what reset to do.

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Sorry for the puncuation..... Ok yesterday we drove over 100 miles with no resetting and then today took her out on the town for lunch. There was full navi and full vid with no problem. Hopefully everything is as it seems and if so there wont be any crappy (posts) good luck guys!!!!

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I'll give this a shot as soon as it stops raining here in sunny FL.

Let me get this straight, this is what i need to do.

1 Move one wire on the Z2s plug to the secret location.

2 Install pot center lead to sectet wire

3 install one of the other pot leads to ground

4 Hook a DVM to center lead and adjust it to read 2.5 volts

5 Reset unit and see what happens

 

I'll post the setting of the pot for you guys but my question is what level of reset do i have to do as well as about how long does it need to be tested. I think resetting mine doesn't bypass it at all. well just let me know what reset to do.

 

Yes I believe that's the gist of it....

 

That and ground the parking brake. I would start with a level 1 reset.

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As of 6/2, I am removing my $100 pledge, bringing the current total back to $500. I decided not to wait, and I went with another unit. I amended the title to reflect that I won't be changing it anymore, but perhaps someone else will maintain a running total at the end of this thread. Good luck to all of you who are waiting for the bypass!

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Well i tried it and it's a no go for me.

Installed a 1meg pot, tied one side to constant power other side to ground, moved the wire on the Z2 to the secret location, set the center pin to 2.5 volts, unplugged my VSS from the z2, reset unit.

It works until the unit figures out where it is and as soon as it does i get the parking brake improperly connected and then it shuts off the video. I experimented a bit with the voltage but couldn't get it any better. It does delay the video over ride a bit with all this connected but video only stays on for a mile or 2. Let me know if there is anything else i can try or did wrong to test it. The DVM was connected black to center of pot and red to constant power from car.

 

Oh, I checked the ohm reading on the pot and it was 955k. I also tried this with the constant power off the pot and couldn't get the volt reading below 9 volts with the 1 meg pot.

 

hope this helps

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