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Hi Joegr, If your built in timer allows the radio to operate for 10 minutes after you turn your car off and you turn the ignition back to ACC position before you open the door within this interval, do you even need a battery backup to provide uninterrupted music/GPS during a fillup? No, I do not have such a timer built into my vehicle, the only timer that exists is one that keeps the courtesy light on for 30 seconds after you open a passenger door, the driver door opening does not start courtesy the timer. None of the cars or trucks I drive have the simple timer feature you describe.

Its a nice idea to be able to pull into a gas station and shut off the car to fill up while the AVIC is still running. What timer are you using to control the shut off time since a fillup will last more than 5 minutes? Im guessing a fillup takes 8-10 minutes on average. We are not taking about having NASCAR fillup capability. Also charging a NiCAD directly from the car's charging system is very risky. The vehicle charging system is designed for lead acid cells not NICADs. A charger specifically designed to operate off the vehicle voltage but have the correct charging characterics for Ni

or just a relay & a diod, diods only allow power to flow in only one direction eliminating any back flow and isolating the circuit, also if you are using the constant power circuit as the source of power for the relay and ACC to trigger the relay and the acc wire on the AVIC is just hooked up to the relay and not multiple sources, 1 relay will be enough Back to the battery issues...when I said deep discharge will occur in a previous post, there was no mention of a diode at the time, without a diode "DEEP DISCHARGE WILL OCCUR". But depending on where you vehicle's voltage regulator's

Thanks Joegr, that certainly looks like it...connector housing looks right too...must be it. For those of you who are moving the mute wire and having trouble....this pin is rather delicate, be careful when lifting up on the locking tab to free it from the connector housing. When you swing the wire to the other side of the housing, the pin will try to invert, do to the stiffness of the wire. If you insert the pin into the housing inverted it will not lock in to place and when you insert the connector into the AVIC, it will dislodge the pin and you will get an intermittent or no contact co

You need a momentary SPDT switch(a SPST momentary will not work!) wired to the power line to force a reboot. I have my doubts if a software hack would get into the MPU(microprocessor) early enough to properly delay boot up, maybe it could be done in firmware though.

fine dont use a battery, but the cap does work, and we're not talking about a diesel we're talking about a toyota pickup as the voltage from the cap drops below the threshold of what is needed to keep the relay energized, the relay would just shut off, giving you the "clean power shut off for the HU" you want to see and therefore there would be no brown out situation I must have overlooked that, I didn't see him specify what engine he had..however maybe someone reading this thread has a diesel...but you don't need a diesel necessarily to have a weather related cold start to require m

radio shack. You may need to buy a small package that has a plug in it, then remove a wire from that plug, then remove the pin..from that wire. Or cut and splice that wire to the wire in the avic harness..so you wont risk messing up the pin on your radio shack wire. But radio shack definitely can help you I went to Radio Shack, no luck to see anything similar. Do you have the Radio Shack part number? The connector/plug you found there, what was it used for? flat or round? The sales person there "definately" couldn't help me.

Using a battery as a remedy would put the battery in deep discharge when the ignition is off, not so good for the battery. It will stress the battery and it will fail in a very short timel, unless you wire in a low voltage protection circuit at an additional cost. But there is another problem with using a battery or cap...... How long the engine cranks can be a weather variable too, especially if its diesel, kept out in the cold, and yes maybe other mechnical problems with the engine. So the 1 second might turn into 4 or 5 secs of cranking. I didn't test this, but i'm guessing the boot

I was thinking about doing a 3.0 upgrade to my f90BT 2.0. and was wondering if an important section of interstate completed about two years ago shows up on the 3.0 maps. This is a section of I-355 stretches south of I-55 to I-80. Could someone look at the Illinios map for version 3.0 and check it out?? Are the 3.0 maps available on line somewhere?

If this is still happening and you can't figure out the problem, you could hook up a meter to the power and ground wires and watch it carefully while driving, that's not easy to do since it happens randomly. You could invest in a logging meter such as the FieldPiece DL3 and voltage head($200), to isolate the problem external to the AVIC by driver safe monitoring(logging) of the power going into the AVIC. You MUST tap the AVIC harness wires, this can be done with "needle bed" piercing clips, close to the black connector, but make sure the clips don't short out to each other.

As I am understanding this: the ACC going hot for a few seconds then shuts off, and then although not specifically stated, then the Switched Ignition wire goes hot, along with the START wire. In this case, I would install a delay relay on the AVIC power wire. This relay will cost about $60 and will stop the AVIC from getting pulsed power during the remote start process. The ON delay being set long enough to compensate for the Remote Start cycle, maybe 10 seconds. Using a capacitor to hold enough energy to keep the AVIC powered during the OFF pulses, would have to be large physically, we a

Oh I see what you mean, since I couldn't turn left or go straight because of the field, it was referring to the next upcoming left turn. Also I found the Demo mode which moves at a slow rate and issues voice commands and the 400 mph silent Flyover mode. Thanks!

I have an F90BT ver 2.0. Does this sound like a map data problem? Can anyone who has 3.0 check it out? Pioneer told me you can go to the dealer store and check it out, but my dealer doesn't have a F90Bt ver 3.0 on display. Here is the problem, I had my destination set, but blew by the last turn because of an errand. It recalculated my route about 4 or 5 times as I was heading away from my destination. It was too late in the day and I decided t abort the errand after I got about a mile away from my destination. I listened to the voice as it recalculated and I followed instruction,

I had this problem too with my F90BT ver2.0, check your VSS wire...make sure you are tapped into the correct vehicle wire. You can go to a Ford dealer and have them make a copy of the schematic of the dash area. This is the wire that connects to the speedo from the transmission, it may also go to a cruise control servo. This signal is suppose to pulse, changing frequency as the vehicle moves faster. You could verify this with a scope meter. This wire has nothing to do with the lockout of features in the F90BT. One indication that that wire is not hooked up properly, is the vehicle arr

I installed a F90BT and a few months later, I decided to hook up the bypass. After replacing the unit back into the dash and driving on it for a day, I noticed the vehicle arrow would jump back and forth about a 1/2 inch every few seconds on a twisty road and even sometimes on straight roads. Also noticed that the "Feet" to the turn would be off 50 feet or greater. Pulled the unit back out and realized the VSS wire connection had pulled apart. With the connection together, all is well. My antenna is in the center of the top of the windshield, directly above the rearview mirror.

I did my install 2 days ago, and yes the reverse wire has a fuse on it, a saw a split in the fuse holder so it should be accessable, and replace able from Rad Shak, but I never poped mine out. its a fuse, but i did check the voltage on mine, and it was there. So some reasons why you didnt' see voltage on it: 1. the fuse may still be blown, i read somewhere that the voltage on the REV wire only changes the picture size of the backup cam. 2. the ignition was not on, and the car was not in REV (make sure the backup lights come on!) 3. You had a bad ground connection to the other meter lead

Sounds like a bad ignition wire connection to the AVIC. Do you see the MAP and MENU buttons flashing on and off? Who installed it? If it was Best Buy, i have seen their less than professional installs.

What is the year and model of car? its possible your fuel tank is not grounded...check with an ohmmeter...

Keep in mind that there is a 2 year warranty on your brick...

Since I just installed my F90BT 2 days ago, I have no idea how difficult it would be to go back to 2.0. But it would prove its the 3.0 software and not a bad volume control knob, Thats why i'm leaning towards putting in a separate mute switch...to take some of the the action off the volume control knob.

How about the Mute wire? If its mometarily grounding somehow...Normally you would see the MUTE icon in the upper right corner of the screen when muted, but maybe its happening too fast too see the icon. Doubtful its a speaker problem, since speakers are driven separately, and all channels are cutting out? Is it causing a popping sound when it come back on or is it smoothly coming back on? When going over bumps in the road? Speed of vehicle? Off duration? Interval duration(time between off and back on and back off)? these intermittent problems can be nasty to find...you might end up havin

I just installed my F90BT 2 days ago (software version 2.0, says on the box). I hooked up VSS and Reverse wires, but GROUNDED the parking brake wire. I Did not use the mute wire, I think i'm going to put a switch on the dash for the mute wire, so I can RAPIDLY mute the radio...pushing in the joystick button is rather slow for me. Anyway.....I can watch DVD, and can fully access the NAV, I get a one-time nag screen saying the parking brake is not hooked up correctly as I get up to speed. I don't know where you actually read the software version from the unit itself.

Does anyone know which bracket kit is needed to install the F90 in a Ford 97 E350? The original radio has a white nylon clip that hooks in the center rail of the dash at its narrowest part. What is going to lock the F90 in place since it doesnt have the little release holes of the original radio? Thanks