RonS

Sorry, I didn't realize you had a Z130. Apparently Staging went away and was replaced with Sonic Center Control. I don't have a Z130, but looking at the Z130 manual, it doesnt seem to do antything except adjust a left/right time delay. I really didn't think this wa your problem anyway. But I see from your picture, you have HPF @ 100Hz. Try setting that to OFF. If your Sub is OFF and with HPF set so high, you would be loosing a lot of your low end sound. As for your original issue (sub not being controlled or shutting down - right?), it still sounds like wiring issue. But first, to be

I hope you meant the yellow/black wire (mute). Yellow is the +12v always hot.

I studdered. Duplicate. Deleted.

Thanks for posting your solution. You'd be suprised how many people have similar problems. Hardly any ever say what they did to get by it. Those who never had any issues, have no clue on how to proceed except "try again. Try a different SD...". We kind of get tired of repeating the same advice. BTW, the back of the manual says 16GB SD max. So odds are that you are out-of-luck using that 32 gigger for MP3s or vids. But give it a try, you might get lucky.

No.

Settings/AV Sound Settings/Staging. Try setting Staging to OFF. Staging allows you to create a surround/multi-dimensional effect, some of which is through adjusting the timing and fade of the rear channels. For some reason, if you turn on staging, it disables the HPF (which has nothing to do with the sub). If you then go back up one screen and enable HPF, it disables Staging. (without warning). Oh, I was wrong before about the sub amp switching off if you set Sub Woofer to OFF. The Blue/White wire is a trigger to turn on anything that you want ON when the HU is on. It is not toggled b

Doesn't sound like you've used other built-in NAVs (including factory). AFAIK, they all lock you out from making changes unless you are stopped. At least with this unit, there is a well known and documented bypass. Sounds like you didn't do any research b4 buying. I personally have no problems with the sound quality/equalizer or NAV. It isn't the most functional NAVout there, but is issn't the worst wither. My wife thinks it is much better that the factory one in her Mazda (which has no known bypass hack). I wish I was in the market for another one at this time. I'd buy yours - althoug

This is a general comment not directed at any deal in particular. I believe the Pioneer manufacturer's warranty only applies if bought through a factory authorized dealer. some non-authorized sellers (like on ebay) include their own one yr warranty, but that could be risky - they might go under or disappear. So buyer be ware. Note: the inclusion of warranty cards by itself does not imply that the factory will honor the warranty if bought through back-channels. Always keep your proof of purchase. I'll also add that there is nothing wrong with buying those units. I myself did and ha

I think it is just the High Pass Filter (HPF) on the AV Settings screen that is disabled by Sound Staging. See pgs 175-176 in user manual. Seems like this would only have an affect if you were using the rear channels to drive your sub amp (either line or speaker wires). AMP3d, you are sure you are using the Sub line-out? Also, do you have the blue/white power trigger connected to your sub amp? If you turn OFF the Sub in the AV System Setting/Sub Woofer menu. your sub should switch off ( or stand-by).

OK, just to clarify your VR issue (separate from the bypass). You find BT calling quality fine (or at least acceptible), so the mic is working. But the HU doesn't recognize voice commands. First, there are basically three categories of VR commands: 1. System commands like "Changes source to FM". "Next song". These are fixed phrases that are build-in 2. Hands-free dialing commands like "call Mrs bigjoe". These rely on data from your phone's Contacts (which needs to be sucessfully downloaded over BT from the phone). 3. iPod commands. Many of these are dependent on transfering song/album/arti

As Jason said - no relationship between Bypass and VR , except that the unit was likely removed in order to access the harness. It is possible you re-connected the mic in the wrong socket (remote). Also, it might be loosely inserted. I believe the problem with VR Ris that something was disturbed in the process of doing the bypass. Maybe you should lay-off coffee too.

First, you didn't say which buttons didn't work. If it is just one - there may be another issue. If it is a problem w/PB circuit, you won't be able to set a destinatin, play any video (like DVD) and a whole lot of stuff. Before you go tearing into things, lets try a simple test to verify that your problem is the PB sensor/circuit. Go to the Settings/Navi Settings screen. The 3rd line displays the state of the PB. Now set and release your PB several times and note whether the AVIC detects the change. If it always says "Off", then that is your problem. If that is the issue (which it prob

Just a guess - have you done the parking brake by-pass?

Do you have a Z110/120 or a Z130? Just wondering if you got the correct pins. Since the harness is different on the Z130, I wouln't asssume the pins are the same size. If they are the correct ones, you might try rotating 90 degrees and try again. Keep rotating until you do the full 360.

The continuous tone is just one of the built-in wave files. There must be a long tone and a short one. Notice in your video - It says "AudioFile" at the top while the constant tone is playing - then a slight break, then a short tone. Like it was queued-up. Then "AudioFile" disappears. And there is silence (except for those annoying beep tones - I turn them off) until you select the "asterick.wav". I can't make out that sound - it is just a quick one. But later whenever you select a built-in wav file the "AudioFile" reappears. I suspect the browser normally shows ID3 tags if they are in the fi

Do you normally have the "beep" enabled of did that just start with this glitch. I think audio files are actually part of the firmware. I found them before while browsing another WinCE device that had been hacked. Too bad you reset it, might of been useful in learning how to hack these units. It seemed like you somehow go into the file explorer. Now, if only we could figure how to do this at will. Had you ever played around in TestMode?

Yeah, VR works pretty good, but how's the BT quality for when you are trying to talk to your lawyer???

See pg 120 in the Z130 manual.

You can't. Your only hope is when Pioneer releases the Z120 > Z130 update - AU version. Once hacked (by ShortFuse?) that might work for you. Your issue will be more complicated since it already is a Z130, so the update will need to be fooled into thinking it is a newer version number. And even if that works, you might lose those Z130 features that are not supported by the Z120 hardware. So what you will be left with is the subset of Z130 features that work on the Z120. Honestly, why do people buy these US units and then assume they can be modified? Oh yes, posted in the wrong sub

Why not just get it from Pioneer directly and avoid all that adware B.S.? http://www.pioneerel...anual020811.pdf Just hit the SaveAs icon in the PDF viewer.

Yes

No, Jason was correct. Hold Mode for a few seconds. You don't have to be in any particular menu. Works from any screen. If you drive during the day with your fog lights, then change your ILL wire tap to the headlights. That way your day/night mode will work automatically. I don't think there is a compromise setting for brightness that works both in the dark and in bright daylight. Better to optimize the display for each. Do you manually switch between day mode and night mode (black backround)?

BT will just give you slightly fancier control than you would get wit a BT headset. Phone, and stereo audio. (It will display more info, and handles Voice Recognition dialing). The cable adds a much enhanced control of the iPhone. Especially the music/video playback. The HU builds a catalog/database for voice recognition (VR) by album, artist, song. On the 120/130 is adds more - like Pandora - directly from the AVIC. Basically, very much of the iPhone/iPod functionality and control can be done from the AVIC touch-screen. Enough that I just keep it in my glove box. Of course, there are oth

Hard to say. 1st I'd make sure the old mute wire is actually grounded to the car chassis. I think your assumption that the HU also is grounded sounds reasonable, but who knows. I doubt you got the wrong pin, but that is easy to check. Watch the video on Youtube to be sure. Most likely, though, it is #3. That is a common problem. Make sure the moved connector is firmly and completely seated. Also, it is possible you damaged it when you removed it from the Mute position. Might need to solder the conductor.

If you got to SD (not disc) two, you already installed the update. SD2 is just the latest Parrot BT update. It still works without it. Sounds more like a bad SD2. Sorry, you had to pay $350 for nothing. Other than the update freezing, what other symptoms did you have that would require repairs? Did you buy one of the $30 "AVIC-Z110BT TO AVIC-Z120BT" SDs on ebay? http://cgi.ebay.com/...=item1e61a703f6 I wondered if they were legit or just stealing ShortFuse's hack. It says instructions are included. Did they actually require you register the upgrade with Pioneer to get the security cod