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Ordering a Z1, I hope I get a "fixed" one.


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Ok you jackals I ordered a Z1 from AbesOfMaine (it's where I ordered my first one).

Hopefully I get a "fixed" one and if so, I'm going to take it apart and see if I can figure out what might be done for bypassing the new units. This is a very expensive test for me, but I'm going to do it.

If I get an old unit, I will either sell it to a friend or relitave and if that doesn't work, I will sell it here. Hopefully I have enough of a name here that people might feel comfortable buying something so expensive on a forum. I might be able to recoup the cost (might even come with a free bypass circuit) :)

If I get a new one, I'll let eveyone know what I find and when. If anyone else would like to start messing with their new "fixed" units, please feal free.

My guess is that the flashing of the lights will still be needed. They already created the code to check for this. If a new unit is still able to be bypassed in some way, I would guess that they added another "check" before it looked for flashing of the lights. Maybe we have to pull off a sticker (voiding the warranty) and flip a switch or blob solder on two pads or who knows. If anyone would like to check their new unit, please feel free. I wouldn't mind the help.
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[quote name="ducatiboy"]Ok you jackals I ordered a Z1 from AbesOfMaine (it's where I ordered my first one).

Hopefully I get a "fixed" one and if so, I'm going to take it apart and see if I can figure out what might be done for bypassing the new units. This is a very expensive test for me, but I'm going to do it.
[/quote]

wow thats dedication man, thanks for doing this as i like so many others would definitely be buying your new flasher circuit.

Does your testing involve any oscilloscopes? or are you more inclined to do some software work on figuring this out?

thanks again, looking forward to your new product.
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[quote name="lcstyle"]wow thats dedication man, thanks for doing this [/quote]

Thanks. I figured that even if I got a "non-bypassable" unit I might be able to sell it here and recoup some of the cost of it. And if I can figure out something, then everyone benifits.

[quote name="lcstyle"]as i like so many others would definitely be buying your new flasher circuit.[/quote]

If that's even what it still requires. If the new units are even able to be bypassed, they might not require any add on circuit, it might just be something as simple as grounding something or whatever.

[quote name="lcstyle"]
Does your testing involve any oscilloscopes? or are you more inclined to do some software work on figuring this out?

thanks again, looking forward to your new product.[/quote]


Well, for right now, I have only needed a scope for measurement of time. I created the software in my circuit and then meaured the output/input and timing with a scope. When I tell people I have this timed down to the MS, I'm not kidding :)

I figure that if there is some way to bypass it, it will be external. There will be something accessable to the exterior of the unit (maybe under a warranty sticker) that will have clue.

I'm sure you can bypass it by re-writing the code flashed into the processor of the unit, but I'm not going to go that far. I don't remember what processor is in there, but unless there is a data sheet for it, I'm not touching it. I might have the hardware to interface to an off-the-shelf processor, but they might have used something custom. I wasn't planning on going that far.
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wow i think that is great of you do .. all that money and time to try and find a bypass. if the unit you buy is an older unit. i would be willing to trade my brand new unit with you if you like? i have one of the new ones made in july and the flasher trick dosent not work. i also have your flasher unit. and that also dosent work. so just let me know if you end up with a older unit.

thanks
patrick

thanks again for all your hard work!
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[quote name="DJ Machismo"]Ducatiboy you are our savior.

You really are a great guy, thanks a million.
[/quote]

For everyone.... I apprecite the support but don't thank me yet. As highly as you all think of me, I can't "walk on water" (so to speak).

If there is absolutely no bypass function in these new units, I don't think I can just magically make one. I'm not going to be reverse engineering the firmware flashed into custom processors for this.

I'm betting that since there has been something in the past to bypass these units, I/we need to figure out what that something is. I'm hoping there is something, but if there isn't I might not be able to come up with anything.

I didn't "find" the bypass for the first units, I read about it here and just made a little circuit that was automatic. I'm hoping I can figure out something with a new one.
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[quote name="ducatiboy"]
For everyone.... I apprecite the support but don't thank me yet. As highly as you all think of me, I can't "walk on water" (so to speak).

If there is absolutely no bypass function in these new units, I don't think I can just magically make one. I'm not going to be reverse engineering the firmware flashed into custom processors for this.

I'm betting that since there has been something in the past to bypass these units, I/we need to figure out what that something is. I'm hoping there is something, but if there isn't I might not be able to come up with anything.

I didn't "find" the bypass for the first units, I read about it here and just made a little circuit that was automatic. I'm hoping I can figure out something with a new one.[/quote]

but still, it's really cool that your trying and I'm sure that would be 'good enough' for everyone involved. I don't think anyone would be disappointed in you, if you didn't find a work around.

good luck !
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The mfr. date, mm/yyyy, will be on the sticker on the box, next to the serial number. And on the same sticker will be on the radio.

I have a Z1. Dunno about the other models, but I would assume the same would apply :)


[quote]
lcstyle Posted: Tue Aug 15, 2006 3:53 pm Post subject:

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

well, nother quick question

how do you decipher the serial number to determine the build date to see if you have a pre or post july model?

thanks
[/quote]
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[quote name="BSecrest"]The mfr. date, mm/yyyy, will be on the sticker on the box, next to the serial number. And on the same sticker will be on the radio.

I have a Z1. Dunno about the other models, but I would assume the same would apply :) [/quote]

thanks for replying. maybe someone who just recently bought one of the new units can post up a detailed pic of the back side of the unit and someone with an old unit can post up a detailed pick on theirs so that everyone can see if there is something physicall different at least as far as the back of the unit is concerned.

If i had either unit (old or new) i would post up myself, but alas, i havent bought my Z1 Yet.

thanks

Ron
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If we have a way to get software in count on me to try to write code. I don't have one (yet, because I wanna keep my steering wheel controls and I haven't found something compatible) but I'll be more than happy to help if possible. Maybe flashing the unit? Maybe creating a 1-1 copy of the old HDD?
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[quote name="ducatiboy"]Ok you jackals I ordered a Z1 from AbesOfMaine (it's where I ordered my first one).

Hopefully I get a "fixed" one and if so, I'm going to take it apart and see if I can figure out what might be done for bypassing the new units. This is a very expensive test for me, but I'm going to do it. [/quote]

I hope you get a newer unit for the testing. I bought my Z1 from abes last monday (8-7) and got a may '06 unit. I dont know what their inventory is, did they say it was in stock when you ordered? Btw thanks for the Circuit!
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