corax Posted February 23, 2010 Report Share Posted February 23, 2010 Looking at the rear of the unit, there is a white socket on the right that has nothing connected, on the left is the black socket that the harness is plugged into. This is connected to a gray connector that has all the wires spliced on. There is a larger gauge yellow wire on this connector but no blue/white on the opposite side. This connector doesn't have any spaces to move pins. I'm confused, I though for sure I'd find the white molex type connector back there. This was "professionally" installed in a '08 Honda Fit. Thanks for helping a FNG!! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
VBLUE42 Posted February 23, 2010 Report Share Posted February 23, 2010 Well you have a problem if this was professionally installed. As I stated above, your looking at the wrong harness. The unit comes with two harnesses. One for power/speaker connections and one for RCA preamp connections. The mute wire that has to be relocated to properly achieve the bypass is on that RCA harness. Go back to your installer and tell them they need to give you the rest of what came with the unit. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
corax Posted February 24, 2010 Report Share Posted February 24, 2010 Doh! The accessory cable was in the box, thanks for setting me straight on this. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
06SuperDuty Posted March 4, 2010 Report Share Posted March 4, 2010 Hey guys great site! I just got mine Monday and installed it myself. While this is far from my first install it is my first navi install. I followed the instructions in this thread and everything works great! Keep up the good work guys! As the name implies I put this in a 2006 Ford F-250 Super Duty so if anyone has questions for that truck I will be glad to share what I learned with you. Rob Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Scpinto Posted March 20, 2010 Report Share Posted March 20, 2010 Perhaps I missed this, but I currently have my mute wire set up to mute the headunit when I activate my Onstar. Will that not allow me to use this bypass method? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
CamelTowing Posted March 20, 2010 Report Share Posted March 20, 2010 You'll just have to use a different wire. Doesn't matter which one it is, most people don't have onstar so its a popular choice Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Scpinto Posted March 20, 2010 Report Share Posted March 20, 2010 Can I just add a wire to that connection point without popping any of the other wires out and follow the directions listed above to make this work? I have another harness I can probably scavenge one of those metal pins from. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
CamelTowing Posted March 21, 2010 Report Share Posted March 21, 2010 If you have an extra harness with the same size pins, just use one of those wires with the pin already attached and make sure it seats properly in the hole Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Scpinto Posted March 21, 2010 Report Share Posted March 21, 2010 Thanks for your help! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
jam2001 Posted March 21, 2010 Report Share Posted March 21, 2010 I just read all 9 pages of this thread, and I didn't see anyone mention what functionality you lose when you move the mute wirer. Once the mute wire is relocated, does that mean the mute function will not work at all, like when an incoming call comes in, or when the navigation directions are being spoken? Or does it just mean that you can't mute with the touch of a button? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
VBLUE42 Posted March 21, 2010 Report Share Posted March 21, 2010 It doesn't mean anything. You wont loose anything unless you plan to hard wire a car phone or install some sort of OnStar adapter. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
jam2001 Posted March 21, 2010 Report Share Posted March 21, 2010 It doesn't mean anything. You wont loose anything unless you plan to hard wire a car phone or install some sort of OnStar adapter. Thanks! On my way out to the car now! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
jam2001 Posted March 21, 2010 Report Share Posted March 21, 2010 Are you guys referring to, taking the yellow wire from the white harness and connecting it to the light green wire from the black harness? If so, in my case, the light green wire is already hooked up to the red/white wire from the CAN-Bus adapter (C2R-CHY4). According to the PAC documentation, the red/white wire is for "P.B. Output (-)." I don't know what "P.B." stands for. Here's a link to PAC's installation instructions if it helps make my question a little more clear. http://www.pac-audio.com/PACProductData ... 060809.pdf Thanks. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
jam2001 Posted March 21, 2010 Report Share Posted March 21, 2010 Duh! PB stands for "Parking brake" Found the answer on page 12 of the installation manual. Still curious what's going to happen with the CAN-bus red/white wire in the mix. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
jam2001 Posted March 21, 2010 Report Share Posted March 21, 2010 I disconnected the red/white wire from the CAN-Bus adapter (C2R-CHY4) and it doesn't seem to have a negative impact. Parking brake is reading "on" in the Navigation settings. Took a quick drive around the neighborhood, but only got up to about 20 mph. Everything appears to be working after following the directions on this site. Will do a full test shortly after I have everything put back together. One strange issue I'm having now though, and I believe someone had a similar issue earlier in this thread, is I only hear half of what the VR voice is saying. For example, when I press the VR button, I see the icon indicating that "she" is talking to me, but I hear nothing. Once the icon light goes out, I'll say, "Play artist such and such...." The icon will light up again as if she's talking to me, but I'll still hear nothing. After the AVIC finds the artist, it responds with, "Playing artist such and such...." but this time I can hear "her" voice. Navigation voice is working without any issues though. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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