mikebaby Posted October 2, 2009 Report Share Posted October 2, 2009 Yes, the parking brake will show as "on" in the nav settings. The moved mute wire will keep the unit from displaying an ERROR message on the main screen wit a warning about the parking brake being wired incorrectly. I moved my mute wire over and everything is grounded properly. The unit always shows the parking break as 'on' However when I get going above about 5MPH I get locked out of most functions. Everything seems to be grounded properly. I'm also getting the grounding error message. How would the unit be showing the parking break as engaged if the bypass was not wired properly? Thanks for any assistance you can provide. mikebaby Quote Link to post Share on other sites
VBLUE42 Posted October 2, 2009 Report Share Posted October 2, 2009 That indicates that the relocated mute wire is not seated properly. This is usually the case when people are having this problem. Re-check your connections. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Iggyg00 Posted October 2, 2009 Report Share Posted October 2, 2009 IT WORKS...... IF any one needs help or busts there pin assembly let me know i can take my other harness apart as i bought a new one. One thing that i noticed is that on the top of the connector which inserts into the unit there is a open rectangle above every pin opening. In this opening there is a small section of metal that is locking the pin above a plastic ridge in the connector. If you pull the wire out without pushing this back there is a good chance you will break that piece of metal and then it wont make a good connection when you move it over. Another thing is that these connectors are made out of very thin metal and are easy to expand if you use the wrong pushing mechanism to push down through the pin opening. I would recommend a thumb tac but if it doesn't push out very easy the metal piece is not unlocked yet. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
mrbeefy Posted October 2, 2009 Report Share Posted October 2, 2009 I just did the bypass and I think it would be a little easier for those of us who don't do this stuff all the time to have a few close up pics... (of course the pins and slots are so small I bet this is new to alot of us). I used a standard staple to release the pin once I had the bar pulled up. I was trying to push the staple in from the rear instead of the microslot in the front under the pin, until I looked close enough to see the slot... Need a pair of magnifying glasses to work on it... Oh and you have to poke the side where you can see an opening in the first pic to release the bar, then shove something in to hold it up while you poke the front slot (poor connector, didn't take it to dinner or anything)... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
LipschitzWrath Posted October 9, 2009 Report Share Posted October 9, 2009 Anyone try a software bypass? Another question: Right now I have the slightly older AVIC-F90BT in my rig. From what I can see, the Z110 looks like it has EXACTLY the same connectors as the F90BT (w/ the exception of the iPod connector). Can anyone confirm this? I've been thinking about upgrading to the Z110 and if it was acompletely plug-n-play swap then I might do it. My buddy's truck got broken into over the weekend and someone jacked his head unit so he offered to buy my F90 if I decide to upgrade. Like I said, if the connections are all the same and it'd be an easy swap, I might just do it! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
dbnichols Posted October 9, 2009 Report Share Posted October 9, 2009 It is not the same. -B- Quote Link to post Share on other sites
LipschitzWrath Posted October 9, 2009 Report Share Posted October 9, 2009 It is not the same. -B- Got anymore to say on the subject besides "no"? Like what is different? Really, the two I am wondering about are the main harness connector and the RCA connector. If those two are the same, then it'll all be okay. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
LipschitzWrath Posted October 9, 2009 Report Share Posted October 9, 2009 Looked into it a little more. Looks like the RCA connector is different but everything else will match up. No big deal, the only wiring I'll have to change is the remote turn-on blue wire. The power connector is the same and so is the nav antenna, microphone, IP-BUS, and wired remote input. All in all, I should be able to swap out my F90BT in about 20 mins. I'll have to modify the RCA connector for the video bypass anyways, so it really doesn't matter anyways! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Itchy Posted October 9, 2009 Report Share Posted October 9, 2009 Power connector, gps, mic are the same. RCA harness is different. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
EdmontonBrad Posted November 21, 2009 Report Share Posted November 21, 2009 I had the F90BT swapped for the the Z110BT this week. Only changed the RCA and the iPod cable - kept the Sirius, the mic, the backup cam, power harness. Took them 30 minutes to do it in my 2006 Dodge Ram Megacab. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
fossil2k2 Posted December 3, 2009 Report Share Posted December 3, 2009 Hey guys, I just got my 110BT in the mail yesterday and jumped right into doing this install. I successfully got the mute pin out of the harness and relocated. I gave it a good 30 minutes with the jewelers tools then decided to cut it out. I just cut a slit in the top of the harness and pulled it right out no problem, very minimal damage to the harness. Anyways... I'm soldering and heat shrinking all the wires and wanted to make sure of one thing first. Can I connect the newly relocated mute wire (yellow), the parking brake wire (green), and the ground for the radio (black) directly to the vehicle wiring harness' ground in lieu of grounding it directly to the frame? Is that too many things connected to one ground? Would that compromise the effectiveness of the ground for the radio? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
VBLUE42 Posted December 3, 2009 Report Share Posted December 3, 2009 That should be fine. It works for me. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
urtruelove78 Posted December 4, 2009 Report Share Posted December 4, 2009 I tried everything i can but was not able to remove mute wire from harness. Eventully Cut the parking brake wire in half and inserted it in new location pushing it all the way in using jeweler's screw driver, Grounded all and my system is running flow less for 2 days. One more thing if you are using PAC SWI then ground it to cars body directly, read it in some other forum that it helps switch lag issue. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Nycryda Posted December 7, 2009 Report Share Posted December 7, 2009 I got the bypass to work but when I drive 5mph or more I get the error message and it cuts of the video... I didnt connect the pink (Car Speed Signal) and the Violet (Reverse Gear Signal).. do U think tht might be the issue or is it ok to leave those 2 alone Quote Link to post Share on other sites
VBLUE42 Posted December 7, 2009 Report Share Posted December 7, 2009 No your issue is your bypass is not done correctly or one of the wires is not grounded properly. Usually the relocated wire is the culprit. Recheck your connections or review the instructions again. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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