elbastardocalvo Posted December 16, 2009 Report Share Posted December 16, 2009 I was able to modify the harness last night. What an enormous PITA. Will be installing everything over the weekend, so wish me luck... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
garrettoomey Posted December 18, 2009 Report Share Posted December 18, 2009 GOOD LUCK!! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
elbastardocalvo Posted December 20, 2009 Report Share Posted December 20, 2009 So no joy on the install this weekend, due to the second largest snowfall in recorded history in the city of Philadelphia. I guess it will have to wait... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
dawgbone Posted December 21, 2009 Report Share Posted December 21, 2009 Just to put it out there... I just did mine just now, and found that a regular/single staple with one end bent straight worked absolutely perfect for unlatching the pin... Â I've seen someone on YouTube actually cutting the connector, to get it out... Â Use a staple... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
superjet Posted December 21, 2009 Report Share Posted December 21, 2009 Stop struggling people. There is a locking tab on the connector. Pull this tab up slightly, and the pins pull right out. viewtopic.php?f=57&t=27175 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
dawgbone Posted December 21, 2009 Report Share Posted December 21, 2009 Stop struggling people. There is a locking tab on the connector. Pull this tab up slightly, and the pins pull right out.http://avic411.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=57&t=27175 Yeah...that was the first thing I did... But non-like yours, mine did not just pop/pull out... Odds are, that yours never was seated correctly from the factory... There is a tiny metal locking piece, that is part of the pin itself, that locks it into place... and why you need to use the staple to push in from the front of the harness..  If you push it down too far, you'll need to pry it back up(gently) so that it locks in right when you move it over... Otherwise, you'll have issues with it down the road...  The locking strip that you're talking about doesn't go through to the second row of pins...ie...where the mute wire is   his is the best pic I could find....It's a different style pin...but it's exactly the same locking piece Quote Link to post Share on other sites
VBLUE42 Posted December 21, 2009 Report Share Posted December 21, 2009 Stop struggling people. There is a locking tab on the connector. Pull this tab up slightly, and the pins pull right out.http://avic411.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=57&t=27175 Â Â It isn't so simple for everyone. I did pry the locking plate on mine but that didn't release the pin. I used a thumb tac much in the way of the staple before mine would release. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BigBone001 Posted December 22, 2009 Report Share Posted December 22, 2009 Mine was installed without a bypass. The guy who installed bypass it by not connecting the speed sensor then grounded the e-break and mute cables. It works. Make sure to reset or clear settings after Quote Link to post Share on other sites
VBLUE42 Posted December 22, 2009 Report Share Posted December 22, 2009 The speed sensor should be connected and will not impact the bypass. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
bheng Posted December 30, 2009 Report Share Posted December 30, 2009 anyone with an extra harness w/ extra pins they can take and mail out =P Quote Link to post Share on other sites
elbastardocalvo Posted January 3, 2010 Report Share Posted January 3, 2010 I was able to modify the harness last night. What an enormous PITA. Will be installing everything over the weekend, so wish me luck... Â OK, I installed everything on Friday and it works flawlessly, bypass and all. What an awesome head unit. I have spent only 50 miles or so in the car so far, so there is much to play with yet. Thanks to all on here for guidance re the bypass. That was invaluable. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
mso4 Posted January 7, 2010 Report Share Posted January 7, 2010 Finally worked! Â Thanks to the picture above. Â I used a small flat screwdriver to lift the flat lock part across the harness up a little. It does not need to be removed so don't do that. Â Got a normal staple and straighten one end. Then I insert the straight end into the small hole (which is above the bigger hole where the yellow wire is). Â They key here is to push it in but slightly downward. By doing that you flatten the locking piece and it pulls right now. I did raise the locking piece slightly prior to reinserting for a better locking/fit. Â So thanks to whoever originally posted that picture. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
lsdlls07 Posted February 12, 2010 Report Share Posted February 12, 2010 For those of you that played football, and have football fingers (fat and sometimes awkward) fingers, you can simply cut the mute wire (in lieu of taking it out) and strip it, then place it in the appropriate slot next to the severed mute wire, all the way through, and fold it up over the harness. This worked for me because my mute wire didnt come out after incessant tries and eventually tore. So I simply stripped it, and placed it through the slot next door and it works great.... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
corax Posted February 23, 2010 Report Share Posted February 23, 2010 As a noob to the Z110, here's a question...The connector to my unit is black and does look anything like the pics in this thread. Is this because I have the HD radio unit? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
VBLUE42 Posted February 23, 2010 Report Share Posted February 23, 2010 Your looking at the wrong connector. The connector in the pics is the RCA harness, that is where the mute wire is. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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