z150 bypass

[zidvbelju]

Just want to update, been using the bypass w/o the parking brake grounded for over a week and a half and it's still working great. 

[JasSingh]

Hello guys,

 

I know someone is gonna come back to me and be like "did you not read the earlier posts" but I am gonna ask it anyway.

 

- should I move the Mute wire over one pin and ground it or should I leave it alone and add another wire on the second pin(green wire in the picture) next to mute and ground it?

- when I receive a call the volume of the music I am playing goes down, it doesn't pause by itself. Does anyone know how to make it pause or stop the music while I am on the call, and unpause it when I disconnect the call.

 

THanks

[skylar]

think the mute your talking about is to control the amps, if your not using amps and just want mute, you can adjust the mute settings if I recall correctly .. some set up on how you want to mute things..  

[RonS]

think the mute your talking about is to control the amps, if your not using amps and just want mute, you can adjust the mute settings if I recall correctly .. some set up on how you want to mute things..

          :  Ummmm, did you not read this thread   :    

[RonS]

Hello guys,

 

I know someone is gonna come back to me and be like "did you not read the earlier posts" but I am gonna ask it anyway.

 

- should I move the Mute wire over one pin and ground it or should I leave it alone and add another wire on the second pin(green wire in the picture) next to mute and ground it?

- when I receive a call the volume of the music I am playing goes down, it doesn't pause by itself. Does anyone know how to make it pause or stop the music while I am on the call, and unpause it when I disconnect the call.

 

THanks

Your choice move vs new wire. AFA pause during a call, no. Just varying degrees of attenuation (at least not on z110 - z140 ... don't have a Z150).

[VBLUE42]

Hello guys,

 

I know someone is gonna come back to me and be like "did you not read the earlier posts" but I am gonna ask it anyway.

 

- should I move the Mute wire over one pin and ground it or should I leave it alone and add another wire on the second pin(green wire in the picture) next to mute and ground it?

- when I receive a call the volume of the music I am playing goes down, it doesn't pause by itself. Does anyone know how to make it pause or stop the music while I am on the call, and unpause it when I disconnect the call.

 

THanks

Regardless of which choice you make its the same thing. So why make it hard?

[mattssi]

Does anyone have a picture of what the RCA harness/mute-wire-relocation harness looks like? (before/after)  I've seen a picture in the 850 thread, but when I did the relocation, the bypass doesn't work.   I have the parking wire grounded and a relocated mute wire that is grounded, but no love.  I get the "incorrect parking wire" message once, but options still dim when the car is moving.

 

Any help would be appreciated!

 

Thanks,

Matt

[graffix31]

did you move the wire or add a new one?  if you added a new one you didnt ground both did you?  you would only ground the new one and leave the original not connected to anything.  

[mattssi]

did you move the wire or add a new one?  if you added a new one you didnt ground both did you?  you would only ground the new one and leave the original not connected to anything.  

I moved the existing mute wire to the next spot over (where the green wire is in this picture:  http://avic411.com/index.php?/gallery/image/218-avic-z150-interlock-bypass/) 

 

I'm wondering if

 

A-  I have it in the wrong location (doesn't seem likely)

B-  The new 150 firmware uses additional methods for detecting motion (VSS)?

 

I miss the old days of grounding the parking brake

[douger]

Just to update, my z150 allows video when I'm in Park.  As soon as I switch to Drive, the video goes off with the warning.  I have a Metra Onstar/Bose interface in my truck which has a wire for "parking brake lead".  The only thing I can figure out is the Metra interface can tell whether the vehicle is parked and sends the appropriate signal to the radio.

 

What I don't understand is what type of signal the Metra interface is sending the z150?  Is it a simple ground?  Is it a pulse?  How would the Metra interface know what aftermarket radio is connected and which signal to send?  It's just strange that I never have to push the parking brake at all to get video to show.  Only have to the put the vehicle in Park.

 

I may disassemble that one lead tonight and test with a meter to see what signal is being sent when the vehicle goes from Drive to Park, unlocking the z150.

I haven't tried video in my system yet, but for many of the functions, they're locked out as soon as I start moving, I'm supposing from the parking brake wire from the Axxess. The head unit is also getting a signal from the vehicle speed sensor which would be a pulse. The shifter position doesn't seem to make a difference.

 

There is a wire that goes from the Axxess unit to the head unit that is supposed to be reverse sense. I suppose one quiet day I'll grab a Tech II from work and watch what's actually going on.

[VBLUE42]

Whats going on is you have an improper bypass. The speed sensor has nothing to do with it.

[RonS]

I haven't tried video in my system yet, but for many of the functions, they're locked out as soon as I start moving, I'm supposing from the parking brake wire from the Axxess. The head unit is also getting a signal from the vehicle speed sensor which would be a pulse. The shifter position doesn't seem to make a difference.

 

There is a wire that goes from the Axxess unit to the head unit that is supposed to be reverse sense. I suppose one quiet day I'll grab a Tech II from work and watch what's actually going on.

 

 

Whats going on is you have an improper bypass. The speed sensor has nothing to do with it.

And don't run the PB wire to the Axxess. Ground it.

[Staize]

Wsup everybody - noob here.

 

After installing this thing, I must say - I'm pretty pissed. I replaced my 5/6 year old JVC KW-NX7000 with this unit strictly for the iPhone 5 compatability. I figured everything else would just... 'work'. Silly me. I have two rear monitors and a PS3 that worked perfectly fine with my old HU, with no special settings necessary. Now, after installing the Z150 it took forever just for me to verify that the 'video out' function actually worked. I thought I received a dead unit. Talk about being 'finnicky' - this thing has a setting for every fricken thing!

 

Anywho - while troubleshooting, I discovered something that may be of use to some of you guys. While installing, I tried just jamming a wire into the blank slot for the bypass and it didn't work. So this morning while troubleshooting, I had everything connected and the vehicle on, but parked. While moving the radio around to check connections I got the 'not while vehicle in motion' message. This damn thing has a fricken MOTION DETECTOR!! WTF!!! Seriously? The vehicle was parked inside my garage - no vehicle movement whatsoever. Just wiggling the radio was enough to get that message.

 

So I guess the hack necessary is to somehow disable the motion detector. So grounding the open port does that? I wish someone knew how to just yank the damn motion detector out.

 

I don't want to get off topic talking about my frustrations with the settings to display video on the rear monitors, but that whole motion detector thing might help someone.

[Staize]

Correction - it isn't a motion detector, it's a compass. I went back out and secured my jammed in wire better and moved the radio around to see if I'd get the message. Well, I didn't get the message but when I put it on the map, the vehicle direction changed as I moved the radio.

 

I jammed the wire 'properly' (if that makes any sense) and went for a short drive. Compass still works, no lockout message.

 

For anyone that wants to jam a wire in instead of moving the mute, look at the front of the wire harness (the side that plugs into the head unit) and you should be able to see the wire all the way in the front, the same as the pins that are in the harness. If you can't see the wire you're jamming in, it isn't being inserted far enough. Don't fold the wire over (my first mistake) it will be too thick to be inserted far enough to make contact once connected. A wire similar in size to the wire in the harness with the tip stripped, insterted will go in far enough. After that, I zip tied it to the mute wire to hold it there.

 

Now if I can figure out the fricken issue with playing video from my phone to the rear monitors...

[RonS]

Glad you figured out the bypass. The sensors are similar to those in a smart phone (accelerometer, gyroscope, magnetometeror AKA digital compass), as well as the 3D slope (up or down angle). Some of these sensors take time to calibrate after installation. They are used for dead-reckoning when the unit has yet to (or lost) locks on the sateliltes. None of them have anything to do with the bypass working. However, moving the unit around might fool the unit into thinking the vehivle is moving. As you found out, moving the unit can loosen an improperly connected wire. Jamming a wire into the opening has never been a recommended way for a reliable connection. You might get lucky. You might not.