joegr

The hardware bypass is not a factor in this. The mute button on my steering wheel always works, but pressing and holding the volume knob in only sometimes works. To change the nav setting to mute the audio when giving directions, you must first go to the audio source screen and select off. With the audio off, you can now go to the nav settings and change the option to mute. (After this, you can turn the audio back on and the setting will stay on mute.)

The particular diode selected is rated to be able to handle that. In practice, the average current to the AVIC is usually less than 2 amps. I can assure you that this solution does work, and is being used in at least two cars. Yes, the warnings about fusing the circuits is very valid. I just assumed that didn't need to be pointed out. Car electrical fires are no fun. Another good battery location (in my case anyway) is in the spare tire compartment of the trunk, next to the car's main battery.

The biggest problem with getting the AVIC to continue to run will starting the car is that usually the car battery voltage will fall below 10.5V while doing so. The AVIC will shutdown if the voltage on the red or the yellow wire goes below 10.5 V. See attached schematic for one solution. The car_acc_pwr line has to be one that is on when the key is turned to run or start. The ignition power lead would be one example of such a signal. AVIC.pdf

I've done this, but a capacitor is not enough. I had to add a NiCd battery pack. Some transistors were also required. Another member on here has done the same mod and reported that it worked well for them too.

Where does the assumption that it must be an 8-bit number come from?

Positive

There are also several small files that can be deleted. There are many files that are included for the navigation software to run with devices other than the AVIC. I deleted all of those, files related to other countries, 3D landmark files, and un-needed language files. That accomplished no speed-up at all, but I didn't try changing the compression ratio. Interesting thought. If something isn't found soon to speed it up and a fix for the bluetooth quality, I'll be replacing it with a Kenwood.

Okay, let's try some logic on this. We know that to allow video and some other features while moving, at least two of three things has to be done. 1. The parking brake sense lead has to be grounded all the time. 2. The bypass pin has to be grounded all the time (usually done my moving the otherwise unused mute pin to the bypass location). -or- 3. The software mod must be done. The OP has done the hardware mod, so we can forget about (3) for now. We know that the OP is able to watch video in motion, at least some of the time. This means, as CatchMeIfYouCan has said, that

Sounds more like the bypass "aka mute" wire isn't properly grounded. No it doesn't, if that was the case he wouldn't be able to watch video at all. Since the OP specified that he can watch video, but has to dismiss the parking brake screen, that means that the bypass was completed successfully, but the parking brake wire was not grounded. I respectfully and completely disagree. If the parking brake wire were not grounded, he couldn't watch videos or enter nav destinations. It's the bypass wire being grounded that gets rid of the parking brake warning.

Another reason to do the software bypass instead of moving the mute wire is that a number of people on this forum have messed up the mute wire pin in the process of moving it to the bypass location. This results in a failed or unreliable bypass.

That is correct.

Your ground wire from the AVIC (black wire) is not correctly connected to the car's ground. The ground shield of the antenna wire is providing the power ground to the AVIC, and it was not designed to do that. You need to fix the ground wire problem. When you do, the AVIC will operate without the antenna plugged in. (Of course, there would be no radio reception.) This doesn't help with your always on problem. The red wire to the AVIC has to be connected to a power source that switches off when you turn the key off. S4's comments are correct. In case it wasn't clear to you, the red wi

i dont know about astra's, but my somewhat "technology challenged" american car works with the metra harness. no interface/can buss setup, just plug-n-play. do most cars need a module or interface to have delayed power? If by "most" you mean most of the cars on the road today, then the answer is no. If by "most" you mean most of the cars currently being manufactured, then I'm not so sure. I can say that more and more are going this way. In fact for some you need an electronic adapter just to have power that is switched on and off with the key. And, of course, many cars now don't even

Sounds more like the bypass "aka mute" wire isn't properly grounded.

In the case of the 2000 LS, there was an easier way. There's a delayed power circuit that runs the power windows. You could have tapped into that at one of the connectors behind the right side rear pillar (over the package shelf).

Because some stock radios actually do the switching inside the radio. They monitor the car's data bus and watch for the door to open. (Older ones actually had a signal wire for door open run to the radio.)

I put a F90BT in my wife's car because it looked like the best deal on paper. It's just too slow and buggy. Also the bluetooth sound is awful. I will be replacing it with the Kenwood.

No, it is for iPod control, album artwork, ..., and charging. No, the drivers for whatever hub you pick aren't in the AVIC's Win CE build.

I don't know about that. Auto-accept might be a more practical solution. I don't think the warning is part of any script. I think it's compiled directly into an EXE.

They're no help when it comes to hooking this up to the LS. The harness you bought almost certainly is wrong for this. The LS with factory navigation is wired completely differently from LS's without it. The 24 pin connector would normally have the four speaker connections, but with nav, it does not. The factory wiring diagrams that I have do not give the connections/pin-outs for the navigation headunit. (Oddly enough, it does give them for the trunk mounted part.) When you do find the remote amp turn-on wires (there will be two, one for the subwoofers, and one for the eight speake

Yes, several. http://www.dot.gov/affairs/nhtsa4304.htm http://www.danielsternlighting.com/tech ... sions.html http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yVuSSdZNsZw

Aftermarket HIDs are illegal to install in any country. It's for a good reason, too.

That's simple. Voltage regulators and resistors do two different things. In fact, voltage regulators have several resistors built in. Resistors resist current flow, so they are generally used to limit current. Voltage regulators (linear ones) take a higher voltage in and provide a lower, fixed voltage output. When you pass current through a resistor, the voltage drop across the resistor will vary with the current. The linear voltage regulator works like a smart resistor. It changes its resistance to whatever value is required to cause the output voltage to be the desired amount. As suc

Your way is a linear regulator. That means it varies its resistance to lower the voltage. So, it will produce just as much heat as the resistor. In fact, it will produce more heat, because of the current that goes to ground. It's a complicated active part with about 100 times more possibility for failure than a simple resistor. It has its place, and I have designed many of them in, but one of the rules of engineering is never use a complicated solution where a simple one will do. But, what do I know with just over 20 years of experience as an electrical engineer. It's not like I've desig

You can do that complicated way, or you can just put a 1K ohm resistor is series with the connection to the factory amplifier. It works just exactly the same (no more pop), it's cheaper, and more reliable.