Ixian

Thanks very much for the update, I was hunting around. I got my new iPhone 4 today and it appears to work other than the issues mentioned above. I was kind of worried about that.

Nope. Stock all the way, always has been.

I deleted all the contacts off mine so I could re-sync the ones I wanted sorted by first name, last. Since then I have not been able to get it to re-transfer any contacts at all.

I honestly think there isn't a way to delete a phone from this thing. They actually forgot, or don't think it's important. With the iPhone the only way contacts apparently get transferred is in the background, via some magic process. And once you delete them or even do the first transfer it never works again. I may actually end up doing a factory reset to fix this. I'd love to be proven wrong.

The x920BT has absolutely nothing to do with the F series. It is the smaller version of the z120BT, same hardware, same software, smaller screen, few different features in software is all.

I deleted all my contacts to fix a problem and now they won't re-sync (iphone 3g). This is driving me nuts. I can delete the x920bt from the phone but how do I delete the phone from the x920bt? I think this is part of the problem I am having re-syncing my contacts. The iphone doesn't push contacts so I can't transfer them manually. Some days I do regret buying this thing.

Give us a review when you get would ya? Read the reviews for the z120bt or the x920bt. It's the same interface. Short answer is, you can debate whether $200 is too much, but it's a significant upgrade. Far more than just map updates.

Yes.

The 4g references the fact that it's 4th generation. My point is that Apple calls it the iPhone 4, not the iPhone 4G, because most people would not assume the "G" meant "generation" they would assume it referred to the new 4G networks many carriers are rolling out and spending billions to advertise. And lose Pandora support, which is far and away my favorite feature (I have the x920bt). That isn't going to be an option for many people buying the newer units.

How could anyone possibly know this? The concern shouldn't be if the new iPhone 4 (it's not 4g) is compatible, the concern should be if iPhone OS 4 - which will be an upgrade for all version 3 phones and iTouches in a few weeks in addition to the new phone - causes problems. We just don't know. Hopefully nothing has changed but Apple has been known to switch things under the radar in the past.

That's not AD2P that does that. That's AVRCP, the remote profile. In order to do what it would need to do for this it'd need to support AVRCP 1.3/1.4 at a minimum, which includes advanced metadata and playlist support. The Pioneer only supports 1.0 - that gives you your play/pause/etc over Bluetooth but not much else. Also I believe Android is only AVRCP 1.0 as well. AVRCP beyond 1.0 is pretty cutting edge right now. Bottom line is, both devices will need to support AVRCP 1.3 at a bare minimum, 1.4 if you want playlist support, and also BIP (Basic Image Profile) for album art support, in o

Anyone updated to the new Pandora (not PandoraLink) on the iPhone yet? I don't want to do it if it breaks PandoraLink, but PandoraLink is kinda touchy right now so I wanted to try it out. By touchy I mean it seems that about 1/3-1/4 of the time Pandora will connect, then throw up a message that the app is having trouble communicating with the iPhone or something. Then I have to unplug the iPhone and replug it. I'm using the stock Pioneer brand iPhone cable, the $50 one, and it works fine with regular iPhone playback, so I'm assuming it's a PandoraLink bug.

Is the regular Pandora app installed and if so does it work. Pandora won't work over Edge, you may have a reception issue but see if the regular app works (the one that plays and is controlled on the phone).

I'm not sure what you are asking either. The remote wire for the PAC and the iPod/USB control cable are two entirely different things that plug in to different ports on the unit.

It is. The TTS voice on these is atrocious, the "regular" nav voice you sometimes hear is a pre-recorded one. Honestly as much as I like my x920bt I'd have to say that if voice control and Nav features are your first priorities you should buy a Kenwood instead. Not this units strong suit, at all.

The A/V harness is white and has the RCA connectors, etc coming out of it. If you didn't get one of those with your unit you have bigger problems than the bypass

They are completely different units and completely different harnesses. I think the power harness might be the same but that's it. Pioneer really should have put the x920BT in a new series, it's really the smaller brother of the z120bt. It's nothing like the other x or F units.

I'm going to repost my own Amazon review of the thing here which sums it up I think: ------------------ I'm posting this after reading the reviews here and then experiencing first hand the difference on my own x920bt between this and a "regular" iPod cable used with the stock Pioneer USB cable. Technically, you don't actually need this cable to use your iPod/iPhone with your Pioneer HU. If you were sitting on the fence like I was about buying it though, read on: First, while the cable is short for the money, it doesn't need to be any longer, as it attaches directly to the already

You mind if I post it over on the Nissan Titan forums I frequent? I bet there'd be some interest there after I post up a review of mine in my Titan.

Where did you get it from?

I don't consider myself an electrician by any stretch of the imagination and had never installed my own car audio before my recent install and even I found the bypass to be the easiest part of the entire process. Getting the cable out is the hardest part, and honest to God I only think some people think that is hard because they are all thumbs (no offense!) Look, you find the yellow mute wire, you stick a bent safety pin in the little latch cover at the bottom of the plug - there's only one, don't pop it all the way off - then you stick another bent pin or staple in the plug and slowly wo

If your bypass is done correctly (easily confirmed by playing a regular DVD while moving) then yeah, I would zero right in on that cable. Since you have this problem whether moving or not once you confirm you can play a DVD it's time to look at the cable. Does the fact that it's a cheap knockoff automatically mean it's the problem? No, but the process of elimination leading up to this point suggests it is. VBlue42's advice is good, go buy one for $50 at Best Buy, if it works you can always return it and order one off Amazon for $35 (or just support your local store and be happy you got a w

The real trick is going to be how to control it. Do other smartphones have a dock that allows remote commands, etc to be passed? I don't mean "multimedia" docks, if it just passes audio like a lot of devices there's going to be no way for the Pandora app to work like it does for the iPhone. The reason the iPhone gets all the cool integration is because of it's app store (which other devices have now) and well-documented dock API that allows commands to be sent and received from the device (which other devices don't have to my knowledge). I know the Droid has a dock, but it's more or less s

Backup cam would probably be easier. Anyway, you have 3 (maybe two) wires to look for. First, find out where the sonar controller is. I have no idea in the Navigator; in the Nissan Titan it's in the lower driver dash. Next determine if it's really going through the OEM speakers, or if it has it's own speaker/beeper and simply sends a mute command to the actual OEM stereo. I strongly suspect it's the latter if there's even a separate unit at all. They could have integrated the Sonar unit right in to the OEM HU itself in which case you are out of luck. Probably be easier to run a bac

I'd be interested to see a picture of this thing at night (Also how it works after a year out on the road and in the weather). That's usually where the cheap CMOS knockoff cameras fall short, and coincidentally night-time is usually when you most need a good picture. Even the more expensive brand name CMOS rear-view cameras fall short in this area, because CMOS sensors aren't very good in low-light situations. This is because CMOS sensors are very susceptible to noise due to the way they work. You can mitigate that in software somewhat but that isn't going to be the case with these cameras.