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Z2 bypass ..... Anyone figured it out yet?


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I know but I still wanna see pics. :?

 

 

Anyhow, look on the power harness or the A/V harness.

 

Ground the parking brake wire and start grounding any empty spaces. Pull out the cell mute wire and move it around. Ground the space and drive for a little bit over 30 MPH, if the unit locks you out, you got the wrong space, move the wire and repeat.

 

You'll be the one to figure out the bypass.

 

Oh and once you know what pin it is, take a pic of the harness and put it up with something pointing to the pin so everyone else knows too.

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You probably shouldn't mock it. How do you think someone figured out the bypass for the Z1? Ducati bought a Z1 and grounded pins until it worked.

 

Actually it was a little more "safe" and scientific than that. I suppose you could. But since I knew that the D series grounds a pin and thought that the new Z software would probably do something similar....

 

I started measuring the voltage on the 4 open pins on the Z1's harness while it was powered up. There was 3 which were already at ground (0V) and only one at 12V. So I turned it off and measured the impedance of that pin and found out that it was very very high... much like a "internal pull up" which would be needed if you were going to try to short that pin to ground. Which means that if you did ground that pin there would be very very little current draw even if you shorted that pin to ground. Since it would draw so little current, I decided to chance it with that one pin and it worked. A little more than just poking till I found something. I did not want to fry a $2K unit any more than anyone else here.

 

If someone has a Z2 that they can play with, I would start my measuring voltages on each of the 4 open pins on connector 2. If they are all 0V except for the one that I list on my site: http://www.sminntech.com/z1flash.html#newbypass then I would say you are probably safe in assuming it's the same as the newer Z1's. I would be very surprised if they changed anything.

 

Also.. remember that a new Z1 could be bypassed just by grounding the parking brake sense wire. You could leave everything else alone and you could drive around till the internal gyro's calibrated themselves. So just grounding pins and driving a couple miles won't work. You need a fully calibrated Z2, and then ground pins and drive around to know for sure.

 

Also based on what I know of "T"...

its the same as the last bypass

Is enough for me to just do it. I wouldn't be worried. I know that until someone else does it and knows for sure, I would be hesitant. But him posting this would be enough for me to chance it.

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