HarmsWay

I'd still call it a routing algorithm issue and my understanding is that's Pioneer's responsibility - nothing Tele Atlas can fix with a database update. Mine Pioneer AVIC-D3 routes a trip home south towards Victoria from Sidney. The route SHOULD be 95% straight on one highway. Where does Pioneer send me? With about 5km left on the highway part, it takes me off the highway onto a secondary road, another turn onto a smaller road, another turn, back onto the secondary road and eventually back onto the highway at the same place I got off. I've got enough experience with other units in fr

It does claim to support AVRCP but doesn't mention version number (anything prior to 1.3 probably won't do it). Here's a profile summary: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bluetooth_profile From the Pioneer CD-BTB200 manual: This unit is compatible with the following profiles. — GAP (Generic Access Profile) — SDP (Service Discovery Protocol) — OPP (Object Push Profile) — HSP (Head Set Profile) — HFP (Hands Free Profile) — A2DP (Advanced Audio Distribution Profile) — AVRCP (Audio/Video Remote Control Profile)

Poke the little red/white compass arrow in the lower right hand corner to switch between "Heading Up" and "North Up".

My 1st gen Nano is plugged into the D3 all the time and I get that message at startup about once every month or two. Not sure what causes it but all I have to do to get it running is unplug the nano and immediately plug it back in. Not a big hardship for all the convenience it provides. If your Ipod is relatively inaccessible then that may be a problem.

Everything you need to assess your current conditions is on the "Connection Status" screen. It shows the VSS pulses, the GPS antenna signal strength and the back signal (reverse gear or not).

The first combinations should work. Either one of the IP-Bus cables is bad or the BTB-200 is bad. The BTB-200 has constant power?

Do you always have a strong GPS signal? Do you drive in an area where the sats are blocked by buildings, mountains, trees, underground parking? If no then maybe your D3 is not working correctly. I don't think there is a way to turn the learning off.

Which is the way it would work if you always had a good GPS signal. Mine has been solid as well since the antenna has stayed in the correct place.

I have a switch but never use it. I think if I were driving to an area where the man was pickier about that sort of thing I switch off the bypass. I don't watch videos but it would be very inconvenient to have to stop and put the park brake on just to start or cancel a route. Plus, my passenger should be allowed to do all that while the car is moving. Seems unreasonable.

Many (most?) of the POIs include a phone number, so in theory it should be possible. I don't recall seeing anything like that in the manual though. I do reverse lookups all the time (enter the phone number to find the address).

Correct. If the camera is powered by the same line that runs the backup lights, it will not be powered unless you are backing up.

...which is fine to get the average into the ballpark, but there is quite a bit of variation from one CD to the next or one DVD to the next.

Wonder what the life of these cameras is when they on any time the car is on. I have no idea. Maybe it's years. I know some of the original backup cams were not designed for that kind of duty cycle and recommended they be powered only when the vehicle was backing up. I'd run it through a switch so I could turn it off.

If I understand your method correctly, you are limiting the gain of the power amp so that it's not over driven when provided the full-on signal of the D3. The problem with that is that it assumes all input sources are equal and they won't be. So you're limiting the amp output to match the theoretical loudest source input. Anything less than will not allow you to get the maximum output. If "clean at all costs" is your ultimate goal, then Bob's your uncle and this is the way to go. OTOH, if you want to be able to get maximum output for all sources, then you'd maximize for the weakest source

I've been accused of over-thinking things, but even I would never go to the lengths you describe. Once you have your D3, without test equipment, you'll be able to figure things out in less time than it took you to write that question.

...assuming the camera is powered all the time and not powered from the backup light wire.

A GPS system can tell you where you are but it has no way to which direction you are pointing unless you are moving.

I wasted 6or 8 disks trying to copy mine using Sonic RecordNow on 2 different computers then finally gave up and installed a time-limited Nero and that worked.

I'm not in my car at the moment and I can't think offhand where else it might be, so perhaps hardware info is the only screen. Do you need more than one screen to verify?

There are several screens which show the VSS status. Hardware info is one.

Take a deep breath. You don't need to answer every question that comes along. You do a great job answering questions and most of us appreciate it. However, if people know they'll get the answer from you in 5 minutes where's the incentive to search the forum to see if it's already been answered or (requiring even more effort) RTFM. Other people whom you've helped before can also step up and give the answer.

In theory - yes. If the car wiring is sized only for the load at factory then a sizeable additional load could potentially melt the wire. Pretty unlikely though and I'm sure many here do the same with a similar vehicle without any problems. Ask them why the illumination wire would be different from any other connection to the factory harness.

If you ALWAYS have clear sight of at least 3 GPS satellites, then the VSS won't gain you much. However if you drive around tall buildings, in the forest, in a mountainous area, tunnels, etc. and still want to show a good approximate location then you should hook up the VSS & reverse gear signals. However... when using the VSS & reverse signals you have to keep this in mind - the more you drive without an adequate GPS signal, the more mis-calibrated the D3 will get. And unfortunately when it's really mis-calibrated it will show the wrong location even when a good GPS signal is the

Apart from the hissing is the noise immunity pretty good then? Nothing related to engine rpm? Mine picked up quite a bit of annoying crap (ignition noise or maybe the VSS pulses) when I ran the Bose off the D3 line outputs. As far as I know all the Bose inputs are differential, so hooking a single-ended output to them is not ideal even if the levels are matched. Different vehicle though so maybe Nissan does it another way.

I don't remember finding a good description of that in the manual, so this is just my assumption based on other GPS receivers: The display can show reception of 0 to 8 satellites with each individual satellite signal strength indicated by the different colours. I remember 3 colours I think. So the strength can none, marginal, good or excellent. Having said that though, I think my assumption is wrong. Otherwise I would expect to see more than one non-excellent colour occassionally and I don't think I have. Maybe that's why Pioneer didn't describe it in the manual.