minifreezer

I know a couple of peeps used the f90 files on their 700 and it worked, but I cant say for sure if the files are the same and will work. If you do a search for f700bt backup files you will find a thread where youcan get them. You have to PM the person and he/she will set you up to get the files. Whish i could rmember the users name, sorry i cant though. Good luck.

All of that is a lie. They actually do not know what causes the prob. If you do a search for it on the forum you will find there are multiple fixes for the issue. Some work for others and some don't. Usually for the black screen in the rear camera option gets tuned on automajicly by the unit. Many people on the forum have been told that by Pioneer and they connect the parking break wire the right way and holly cr@p the fault is still there. Some people have had the unit intalled by the book since day one and had Pioneer tell them the same thing about the PB wire causing their fault, a

That prob is common. Usually the fix is to press the map button and the map should come up. If it does then most likley your sys automajically turned on the rear camera (even if you do not have one connected). If you do search this prob has been addressed alot on this forum. Now if you press the map button and nothing happens your next step is to see if you can get into testmode (do a search in hacks/mods). If you can get into testmode you can try restoring the flashdrive with a backup. If you can not get into testmode send it to Pioneer. Good luck and hope you get it fixed.

They work. I had to burn at 2.4 to get the avic to read it though.

You can try to DL the hacked ezrider and see if that fixes it. What maps are you useing? Also did you DL a igo scheme?

I agree with you the solenoid should not draw current (granted i have not worked on any newer fords lately) but i have had a starter selnoid on a couple of fords ('85 and a '93 back in the day) cause too much of a current draw. Because of the coil winding in it that gets energized when you turn the key to pull the contact down that connects the battery power to starter was shorted. The ones i had were supposed to ohm out at 50ohm's (i think) and were actually ohming at less than 30 through the coil. Also had one that the contacts in the solenoid were not makeing complete connection crea

Oh yeah could be something as simple as the battery going bad or not haveing enough cranking amps for your car.

when you start the car do you have anything else on like the a/c, headlights, or even the door open. Any of thing else being on while you start the car draws on the battery untill the car is started and the alternator kicks in. Also even though the car is new you could have a faulty starter selonoid drawing more from the battery than needed. Check the voltage at your car battery while someone starts it and see if the voltage at the batter drops to 10vdc also. If it does it could be the selonoid like i mentioned earlier or the starter for your car just draws alot of power. Hope you find a f

I would go over all connections. All electrical components are desighned to work off of a certain amperage, if one of the connections are slightly off that could be creating enough resistance to prevent the right amount of amps from getting to the unit. You can put a meter on it and read 12, 13, 14 or more VDC but only getting 5amps when the unit might need 8-10amps to work. While you are driving the vibration from the motor and the road might be just enough to wiggle one connection to creat high resistamce and then back to normal. It only take .01 of an inch to creat enough resistance to

Search mod/hacks section for 3d buildings.

The stock unit does not have 3d landmarks for all states. You are probably in an area that the map data does not have the 3d landmarks. If you do a search for 3d buildings in the hacks/mod section you can find out alot more info.

check the mods/hacks section about updating maps. The newest maps we can use is 2008.4, but you have to get a hacked ezrider. If you do a search for it it will explain everything.

that warning is normal. As long as the video is working you are fine.

Man i wish i could help you more, but if you can't get into testmode i do not know what to do. Do a search for not being able to get into testmode nd hopefully you can find answer to that. I know there are a couple of threads about no being able to get into testmode. Also make sure your sd card is formatted in fat32, somtimes that will keep you from entering testmode. Other than that you can try to get into uboot. You will have todo a search for it i have never done it. Good luck and keep us posted.

Just put all the files on an sd card. Put the sd card in the unit and start the car. The unit will boot into testmode (wait for the copy screen to finish and then press the X at the top right). Navigate to "myflasdrive" and makke a list of all files and folder you see (you will need the list later). After you have made the list delete all the files and folders except for the wince files (there are 2 i beleive). Now navigate to the sd card, get you list out that you made previously, and copy all files and folders except for the testmode folder and the mitacap folder to "myflashdrive". The

Reload the software (every file and folder on myflashdrive). Hopefully you have a backup on the software if not go here http://www.avic411.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=34&t=21618&p=160394&hilit=f90bt+backup#p158522 Hopefully this will work for you.

Do not click on "myflashdrive" and copy it to the sd card. Instead open myflashdrive highlight all of the files and folders then click copy, navigate to the sd card and click paste. There have been other that have ran into the same prob and that is how they got it to copy. Good luck.

You can try getting into testmode and deleting the files in the user data folder. that has helped people and i think that might help you. After you deleted the gpspara files it worked fine untill you went and set your EQ. All of your personal settings fo audio video and contact are saved in the userdata folder, and if any of those files are corrunpt you will get reboot issues. As far as going back to stack oand now it will not boot up sounds like your stock data.zip is looking or a file that CMH AIO has eith replaced or deleted. You can try to install a backup of the whole unit (hopefully

Not connecting the VSS wire is not going to hurt anything at all. How many units do you think are installed into vehicles that you can not hook up the vss wire on, plus Pioneer has to plan for that situation also. I have been running mine for about 3 months with out the VSS wire connected. In fact when i installed the unit i had no intentions of connecting the VSS wire. You will be fine. Hope this helps.

Go to Pioneers web page and surf to the 2.0 firmware update. There will be a step step on how to tell if you have the 2.0 firmware and the latest BT drivers. Some others were having this problem and it ended up being the way the contacts were put in their phone. I beleive they had to change the contact names to not have any special characters just letters. So if you had 2 contact with the same name you could not have "Saraha(hot)" and then another "Saraha(ugly)" to differentiat between the two you can only have "Saraha". Good luck

You should never write off a loose connection. Most people seem to beleive that a loose wire will not give you enough voltage. That is wrong if a connection is loose you might be getting 12VDC to the system, but due to the high resistance the the loose conection just created you might not be getting enough amperage. So you might be getting 12VDC but only .05amps when you need maybe 10amps for the system to work ( i do not know the exact amperage for the unit those are just example numbers). Due to the driving and the heat of the day kicking in the metal on the connector wiggles and expand

Check in your setting and see if the back-up (reverse) camera did not automajically turn on. It has happend to a couple of people, and they did not have a reverse camera at all. Good luck

Either not getting a good ground connection or most likely the mute wire is not seated all the way in the white plug. Hope this helps you.

You did not follow the full bypass instructions. Do a search for hardwire bypass picture guide. You have to move the mute wire to another locatin on the plug and ground it also. Or you have to do the software bypass.

I would like to see some pics if you could. When you say noticed faster response, are we talking a slight difference or big difference. Thanks in advance.