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I posted it on page 16 (the very first message) but here it is again:

 

1. When +Battery and ACC are ON, push RESET and EJECT buttons simultaneously.

2. After 10 seconds Release RESET button and then EJECT button

3. Enter the password.

4. When the password has been entered, press [ENTER] key (that's a 'T' button)

5. If the correct password has been entered, the test mode menu will be displayed.

* The password entry screen, as the one used in the previous model, is no longer displayed.

<< Password for the service >>

The password is [ (up)] [ (up)] [ (down)] [ (down)] [ENTER].

If 8 digits or more are entered and [ENTER] key is pressed, it will be treated as a password error.

Up/down keys are defined by P.LIST

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I posted it on page 16 (the very first message) but here it is again:

 

1. When +Battery and ACC are ON, push RESET and EJECT buttons simultaneously.

2. After 10 seconds Release RESET button and then EJECT button

3. Enter the password.

4. When the password has been entered, press [ENTER] key (that's a 'T' button)

5. If the correct password has been entered, the test mode menu will be displayed.

* The password entry screen, as the one used in the previous model, is no longer displayed.

<< Password for the service >>

The password is [ (up)] [ (up)] [ (down)] [ (down)] [ENTER].

If 8 digits or more are entered and [ENTER] key is pressed, it will be treated as a password error.

Up/down keys are defined by P.LIST

 

Interesting. So you got into that menu, did you change anything? Also, is your p-brake wire grounded? From what im gathering from what you're saying, you got into the menu, your unit then locked up and you reset it several times. This did nothing, then today (or whenever it was) you turned your car on and now the unit is bypassed completely. Does that about cover it? If so, i think you're either extremely lucky, or you changed something in that menu and didnt realize it. OR.... you fubar'd your unit, something is broke, but you havent realized it yet.

 

I'm going to hold off on entering that menu until I see a few more people on here who have successfully followed the steps you did. Because its either a goofy fluke way to get the unit bypassed and wont work on everyones, OR its a quick way to screw up the unit.

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Interesting. So you got into that menu, did you change anything? Also, is your p-brake wire grounded? From what im gathering from what you're saying, you got into the menu, your unit then locked up and you reset it several times. This did nothing, then today (or whenever it was) you turned your car on and now the unit is bypassed completely. Does that about cover it? If so, i think you're either extremely lucky, or you changed something in that menu and didnt realize it. OR.... you fubar'd your unit, something is broke, but you havent realized it yet.

 

I'm going to hold off on entering that menu until I see a few more people on here who have successfully followed the steps you did. Because its either a goofy fluke way to get the unit bypassed and wont work on everyones, OR its a quick way to screw up the unit.

 

So, here's the thing...

Yesterday I got off work and turned on my car. My unit was sitting at the Pioneer screen for almost 10 mins and nothing changed. Then I did a few resets - still no luck. I went to this form to see if somebody had the same problem and found a thread which lead me to believe that this was a heat related problem. Somebody also mentioned that if unit behaves the way i described - hard drive failed. That's when i decided to run a quick "Read and Write" tests to see if drive is still OK.

 

I have NOT changed any settings in that menu!

 

After I finished some diagnostic test unit still didn't come up. This morning (after a, more or less, cold night) unit started up like nothing happened. Then by accident I realized that all menus are still enabled even though I was moving.

 

So, either unit went crazy due to a heat issue and completely reprogrammed itself (which is not practical) or there's an issue with a hard drive and it couldn't read some sector which is responsible for setting speed limits at which unit disables most functions. If it helps, the address that was failing on read test is: 00002469h

 

dimaj

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when you reset it did that reset 3d hybrid? if so you could be locked out again as soon as it gets back to 3d hybrid.

 

I'm in the Basic Hybrid (or something like that) as a learning mode, however all other settings are still saved (right turn, left turn, distance, etc.) including all my radio settings.

 

I assume that when you are talking about Hybrid, you are talking about 3D Calibration, right?

 

dimaj

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dimaj: What you are describing sounds like the temporary bypass the "FINALLY THE MOMENT WEVE BEEN WAITING FOR... THE Z2 BYPASS" thread speaks to: http://avic411.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=6357

 

If I understand the essence of that temporary solution, it forces the unit into Basic Hybrid mode which circumvents the disable mechanisms. Eventually the unit should reset its way back to 3D Hybrid which will again disable the menu / DVD options.

 

From my perspective, that's not something I would consider a solution since I specifically got this unit for what I understood to be improved GPS accuracy available through the "3D Hybrid" positioning (dead reckoning). If your unit stays in the Basic Hybrid mode, in theory you should remain bypassed. The curiosity.

 

Odds are, tinkering around you found a way to set it to bypassed mode if it does not revert back on it's own. I do know from reading svc manual it keeps a history of errors - you might want to go into that area through menus and list out the errors in there.

 

If you could post the error history for your Z2 it might help see what's happening. It's altogether possible as well that your multitude of resets put the unit into a "downgraded" mode to bypass a real issue. I would expect the unit to do things like that.

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I know it's a bit off the subject, but how long does that usually take?

 

I have seen as little as 15 miles and as long as 100. But it's whenever it sees enough sat and Vss info to make an informed decision to think it's synchronized.

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This might be overly simple, i'm sure someone has already thought of this, but i don't remember reading if anyone has tried disconnecting the VSS wire. i.e. how else would the unit know if the vehicle was moving or not? :wink:

 

My ML55 didn't have a VSS wire until I installed a Canbus Adapter for my Z1. Prior to that Navigaion worked ok unless i was in a tunnel or simular situation... basically, i couldn't really tell much functional difference. Will the Z2 function at all w/o a VSS signal?

 

Just A thought...

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This might be overly simple, i'm sure someone has already thought of this, but i don't remember reading if anyone has tried disconnecting the VSS wire. i.e. how else would the unit know if the vehicle was moving or not? :wink:

 

My ML55 didn't have a VSS wire until I installed a Canbus Adapter for my Z1. Prior to that Navigaion worked ok unless i was in a tunnel or simular situation... basically, i couldn't really tell much functional difference. Will the Z2 function at all w/o a VSS signal?

 

Just A thought...

 

uhhh..... It knows you are moving because its a gps unit? It gets information about your whereabouts from the gps satellites. Yes the Z2 will still work as always without connection the VSS. The VSS only helps when you have no gps signal and it will update faster by like 1 sec.

 

On a side note, good to see there are still coochos on this board.

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