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FINALLY THE MOMENT WE'VE BEEN WAITING FOR....THE Z2 BYPASS


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It will not learn 3D calibration without the VSS connected. Not a big deal unless you are in an area without satellite reception (bridge, downtown area with tall buildings, etc.)

 

Nissan07,

 

When you say fully callibrated can you elaborate? Full distance, right turns, left turns, and 3D? Mine doesn't seem to callibrate the 3D or at least not as yet, maybe that's the last thing to callibrate on the unit. What exactly does the info screen on your's say?

 

If this is true, the int. gyros are not going to affect this bypass, and a simple timing switch on the e-brake may be the final solution vs. attempting to modify the HDD/OS, etc.

 

Thanks.

 

Beachdoc

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Hybrid is just terminology that Pioneer uses. Has nothing to do with hybrid vehicles

 

Nissan07,

 

You also mentioned that your status on the info screen said "Learning....Simple Hybrid" as well. Do you have a Hybrid vehicle or I wonder what is meant by the word Hybrid on the unit. I would hate to think this bypass only works on hybrid vehicles. That would add a whole new dimension to this bypass as our engines don't "kick-on" until after we're moving above 5mph. However, I turn my switch on with the engine running so I doubt that's it. Hopefully, it's not some weird electrical solution we have with hybrids.

 

Beachdoc

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Yes, please disconnect the VSS, and reset the unit as previously described. It should work.

 

Thanks.

 

Beachdoc

 

think ill put a dpdt switch in for both the vss and the parking brake lead...so that when one is off the other is on

seems like it will give the best of both worlds

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Except that if the VSS is ever hooked up it might give you a problem when you switch it out, either it won't work again for a long while till it re-calibrates, or when you switch the VSS wire back it, the combination of it in and disconnected will mess up how it works when it is connected or it might even screw with this "bypass" when you switch it in and out. Just something to keep in mind. If the bypass is important to you and it works better with it disconnected, it might be better leaving it permanently disconnected.

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I agree with Ducatiboy. Leave the VSS completely disconnected. Just put a toggle on the e-brake. If you get everything working fine ( several people are having a hard time reproducing this as is....) and it callibrates, then you could try the switch on the e-brake first which might be an option for a perm solution. I think messing with the VSS on a timing switch will just cause you problems and confuse the unit. Just my thoughts.

 

Beachdoc

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In my mind, this is still not a full bypass if it requires the absence of the VSS wire. The goal is normal function of the GPS and all the features that get locked to be available while moving. The true answer is still eluding us, but if you guys are happy with what you've got, have at it. At least people are trying!

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ok i did it and if you disconnect the vss wire your vehicle dynamics go away and also once my z2 calibrated about 10 miles it shut the movie off and then told me the whole warning while driving crap we all hate but he is truely on to something now we just need to perfect it

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Titos,

 

Keep driving and using the bypass. The int. gyros are not fully callibrated. My vehicle dynamics screen works fine. Initially, it didn't, but sometime between the reset and 200 miles it started working perfectly.

 

Yes, I get the video warning screen too, but it disappears quickly. After you switch the e-brake on, the video should pop on. I think some people trying this method are a little "trigger happy" with the e-brake switch. Start the DVD without video, see the warning screen, press enter to restart the video where it previously left off, hear the sound, then flip the switch and the video will come on and stay on as long as the car is running. Just remember to flip the switch back off when you turn the car off.

 

Also, everyone should make sure they are using a 2 way switch not 3 way, and that it's properly grounded. This unit is very finicky when detecting the e-wire on boot.

 

I know this isn't the perfect solution, and I don't even use the mod everyday. But, it does come in handy on long trips or when you really don't know where you're going.

 

As previously mentioned, the e-brake check is probably embedded on the HDD or in flash memory. That may be hard to change without insider info.

 

 

Beachdoc

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Also, everyone should make sure they are using a 2 way switch not 3 way, and that it's properly grounded. This unit is very finicky when detecting the e-wire on boot.

Beachdoc

 

I currently have the Avic Z2 harness e-brake wire connected to the vehicle's e-brake wire. Should I disconnect the Avic harness e brake wire and connect it to one side of the toggle switch and the other to ground?

The toggle switch is a SPST switch, right?

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Yep...that's what works for me.

 

All of the functions including speedometer work for me. In fact, my Pioneer dynamics screen is more accurate than my speedometer. All with the VSS disconnected. I think Nissan got the same thing.

 

Perhaps there is a difference between starting to use the mod switch before and after the GPS callibrates. That would be my only guess as to why people are getting variable results.

 

 

Beachdoc

 

"Hey, I just fool around with this stuff, I didn't design it."

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In my mind, this is still not a full bypass if it requires the absence of the VSS wire. The goal is normal function of the GPS and all the features that get locked to be available while moving. The true answer is still eluding us, but if you guys are happy with what you've got, have at it. At least people are trying!

 

Agreed. This seems more like a bandaid for a broken leg. Congrats on getting "something" to work, but I'll continue to be patient.

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Is there a certain type of switch, like as far as power handling wise i should use?

 

Nope, just about anything would be fine. There is so little power here it's not funny. Any toggle switch radio shack sells would be fine. As a mater of fact, just about any toggle switch anyone ever sells would be fine. I would go for whatever is small, non-obtrusive and easy for you to get your hands on.

 

Just a SPST (single pole single throw) or a SPDT (single pole double throw) is fine, stay away from anything momentary or with a "center off" position.

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Here's my setup:

 

Toggle Switch to ground and e-brake

VSS wire cut (disconnected)

Reset all calibrations (saying sensor initializing...)

 

I followed the directions on what I'm supposed to do and the FIRST time it worked. After that it comes and goes whenever it feels like it. It works till 30 mph, 40 mph, and sometimes only at 10 mph.

 

I checked the wiring and made sure everything is connected properly but nothing is helping.

 

Any suggestions? Mahalo in advance for the replies.

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