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Defeating the boot time for "short" stops..Ideas?


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A simple fix for this would be for Pioneer to just enable hibernation on the OS. OR at the very least, enable it with a feature that it asks you when you turn off the car. "Do you want to hibernate or shut down?" "YES to Hibernate, NO to shut down" And that's it. would take maybe what 10 seconds to get it back to full functionality. I mean if they are going to use the Windows OS, they could make that work.

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I am an installer for a very reputable company and as other people have said before remote start is the way to go. The reason is not only can you remote start it but when its running you can do a remote start sequence with the key in the ingition and pull the key out and it stays running. I do it all the time so my screen and IPOD stays booted.

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There are new units designed for manual transmissions made by Directed Electronics, known as the the Responder LE series by Viper, Python, and Clifford. However it's finding a professional such as myself that is willing to install it because even though it's made for manual transmissions some companys won't allow it to be installed.

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There are new units designed for manual transmissions made by Directed Electronics, known as the the Responder LE series by Viper, Python, and Clifford. However it's finding a professional such as myself that is willing to install it because even though it's made for manual transmissions some companys won't allow it to be installed.

 

The Python 872P looks like a decent unit. Looks like they can be had for $240ish. Now, to find someone that will do the install. What's an alarm install going to cost? 04 Cobra+AVID-F700BT+Responder LE = :)

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Heres a little more info I looked into.. Windows Automotive aka CE 5 (whats on our junk) has suspend modes and even battery state modes. Heres the problem, we have no internal battery, ie no way for the system to detect a loss of main power and therefor use the bat to go into hibernation/Suspend mode.

 

I dont forsee us getting around this unless someone is willing to see if they can hardware a battery on it and detect a voltage drop to the batterys level to initiate suspend mode.

 

also any registry changes do not hold water after reboot, however anything changed in control panel does hold. strange i though but true.

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I have used Windows Pocket PC devices and Windows Mobile 5.0 and 6.0 for a few years. I just dumped my HTC WM6.0 phone for other reasons, but I was surprised to see what Pioneer has done with the O/S on these units. If these units were not setup for hybernation then the system was doomed to fail from the design phase. I don't think Pioneer would intentionally taken that step during the design. Just to give you an idea, my HTC phone took about 30 seconds to hard boot and it included modules/software for the Phone, Contacts, Mail, Tasks, Bluetooth, GPS, WiFi, Windows Media among other things. The boot time is why people don't regularly turned their phones completely off, so the phone relies on an internal battery for standby mode.

Now these units may not have an internal battery, but what the heck do you call the 12V 60AMP power you got under hood? Come on, I think forcing the unit to hybernation is a no-brainer. I don't think there is a head unit out there that does not rely on continious power for simple things as keeping the internal clock running to more complex tasks as to speed up boot times.

I think this unit's standby mode might have been so buggy that Pioneer decided to excluded out of the ROM hopefully as a temporary measure. Maybe to avoid law suits on people's batteries getting drained or having too many hiccups after waking up. Essentially, if you think about it, the unit is doing a soft reset everytime you turnoff the ignition which allows for buggy software to start from scratch.

Anyway, I hope Pioneer get their act together. Every car stereo shop that I go to pretty much avoids talking about and selling pioneer units. :(

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I have used Windows Pocket PC devices and Windows Mobile 5.0 and 6.0 for a few years. I just dumped my HTC WM6.0 phone for other reasons, but I was surprised to see what Pioneer has done with the O/S on these units. If these units were not setup for hybernation then the system was doomed to fail from the design phase. I don't think Pioneer would intentionally taken that step during the design. Just to give you an idea, my HTC phone took about 30 seconds to hard boot and it included modules/software for the Phone, Contacts, Mail, Tasks, Bluetooth, GPS, WiFi, Windows Media among other things. The boot time is why people don't regularly turned their phones completely off, so the phone relies on an internal battery for standby mode.

Now these units may not have an internal battery, but what the heck do you call the 12V 60AMP power you got under hood? Come on, I think forcing the unit to hybernation is a no-brainer. I don't think there is a head unit out there that does not rely on continious power for simple things as keeping the internal clock running to more complex tasks as to speed up boot times.

I think this unit's standby mode might have been so buggy that Pioneer decided to excluded out of the ROM hopefully as a temporary measure. Maybe to avoid law suits on people's batteries getting drained or having too many hiccups after waking up. Essentially, if you think about it, the unit is doing a soft reset everytime you turnoff the ignition which allows for buggy software to start from scratch.

Anyway, I hope Pioneer get their act together. Every car stereo shop that I go to pretty much avoids talking about and selling pioneer units. :(

 

 

Thats true there is 12v constant there but maybe they figure the power consumption in hibernation isnt worth it. Or they just fawked up.. Either way I really wish it would have some option for hibernation or sleep, as boot times do suck.. I have owned pioneer for many years and this is the first unit im not 100% pleased with... Go figure.

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I thought I had come up with a super-simple way to defeat this for short stops (like pumping gas etc). I put a diode in series on the Red (acc/ignition) wire and a toggle switch between the red wire and the yellow (battery / constant power) line. The idea was, if I was just going to be out of the car for a minute or two, I flip on the toggle, then take the keys out. The nav unit stays powered and on. When I am back in the car, I turn the car back on, then turn off the toggle switch and continue on my way.

 

This way, when the switch is 'off' the unit works like normal, turning on and off with the car. But when the switch is 'on' the unit runs regardless of the car.

 

I wired it up and sure enough it seemed to work! Until I started the car... seems mine (2001 Rav4) draws too much power while cranking; the voltage to the HU dips and it resets itself... :( Guess I should have tested that before I did the wiring. Ah well... at least now I can turn it on and off and play around with test mode, without wearing out the key and the ignition.

 

In case anyone else is interested, I've attached the wiring diagram that I used. The switch is an automotive toggle, designed for 12v and 10 or 15 amps. The diode I used is a big rectifier, I didn't take note of the part number but it's good for over 6A which I think is more than enough in this case.

post-21587-12872755070013_thumb.jpg

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I thought I had come up with a super-simple way to defeat this for short stops (like pumping gas etc). I put a diode in series on the Red (acc/ignition) wire and a toggle switch between the red wire and the yellow (battery / constant power) line. The idea was, if I was just going to be out of the car for a minute or two, I flip on the toggle, then take the keys out. The nav unit stays powered and on. When I am back in the car, I turn the car back on, then turn off the toggle switch and continue on my way.

 

This way, when the switch is 'off' the unit works like normal, turning on and off with the car. But when the switch is 'on' the unit runs regardless of the car.

 

I wired it up and sure enough it seemed to work! Until I started the car... seems mine (2001 Rav4) draws too much power while cranking; the voltage to the HU dips and it resets itself... :( Guess I should have tested that before I did the wiring. Ah well... at least now I can turn it on and off and play around with test mode, without wearing out the key and the ignition.

 

In case anyone else is interested, I've attached the wiring diagram that I used. The switch is an automotive toggle, designed for 12v and 10 or 15 amps. The diode I used is a big rectifier, I didn't take note of the part number but it's good for over 6A which I think is more than enough in this case.

 

You might try replacing your battery cable since the car is 7 almost 8 yrs. old.That corrosion will cause more resistance and more voltage draw.It definately won't hurt and also change the starter cable.

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In most vehicles the action of turning the key into the crank position will turn off all electronics, this allows all power to be sent to the ignition system (in case you have electronics in the system that produce a significant current draw). This is pretty standard on most late model cars and can only be bypassed by connecting the constant 12v wire into the ACC wire on the back of the head unit and wiring a switch to turn the head unit on and off.

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Ah well.. I guess it's back to hoping Pioneer will come up with a 'fix'. The lethargic boot-time is not a 'deal breaker' for me anyhow, there's enough things I like about it that a 60 or 90 second delay at startup isn't going to make me want to return it. I do hope, however, that Pioneer does take this as a serious fault in an otherwise nice product.

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